Here’s a technique I used at my house for under cabinet lighting (task lighting). I’m using “dink, puck” lights throughout the house. This application I’m displaying is at our butler/serving cabinet.
Materials / Application:
Cabinets with under mount / applied panels
Low voltage puck lights
Magnetic transformers (remotely located in crawl space)
Dimming light switch powering transformer
Pictures / Description:
1. Photo showing cabinet without bottom panel and lights installed.
2. Bottom shot of cabinet showing low voltage wiring coming from transformer.
3. Bottom panel showing hole and channel for puck light and wiring.
4. Bottom panel showing three lights installed.
5. Bottom panel wired up ready to install.
6. Close-up of wiring (wire in panel was hot-glued to channel and stapled at edge).
7. Finished cabinet after panel installation.
8. Finished panel showing dink lights.
Although there are many ways to provide under cabinet lighting, I’ve found this method to be the cleanest, most elegant method.
Merry Christmas to all! Hope this helps to inspire.
Phil
Replies
Nice installation. How long has this been installed and working?
I used to use halogen hockey pucks for that application, but have switched to using the Kichler units with hi-low rocker switches and xenon bulbs. The xenons are cooler and last longer for me, and I run 'em on line voltage. They are dimmable.
What Gene said regarding the Kichler units. Line voltage on Lutron dimmers. You can dial up any mood you want from very bright task lighting to very mellow mood lighting. Dimmed all the way down, they make great night lights.
That's a nice install Phil - great looking work.
John
Thanks John & GeneHave'nt used Kitchler units before. Do you run standard line voltage wiring (14/2) to each light? If so, how do you make up the connections? My house is wired with the Lutron HomeWorks system. I've had the upper portion of this cabinet up and running for over a year now. Just yesterday I installed the lower panel and lights (you know how those punch-lists can drag on). These cabinets lights are switched from a "maestro" switch which allows local operation and full dimming range. I also have them operated from other key pads throughout the house for various mood and scene settings.Phil
Yeah, if line-voltage, how to do the connection? Your tucking them in the wood is slick for low-voltage.
Buckys thoughts about wire nuts: Yes, tape is good. I'd use crimp connectors for something even smaller and more secure.David Thomas Overlooking Cook Inlet in Kenai, Alaska
Phil,
For the Kichler wired fixtures, you would run a standard switched lighting circuit to the first undercab light in the chain. The first Kichler undercab fixture is equipped with a wiring module in which you make up the connection to your 14/2.
You then daisy-chain one Kichler fixture to the next for the length of the cabinet run. Kichler supplies nifty cables that mate with the molex connectors on each end of the fixture. The last connector at the end of the chain is unused and capped.
Here are a couple of links that explain it better:http://www.elights.com/uncablig.htmlhttp://www.elights.com/installundercab.html
The Kichler fixtures are not cheap, but they are well made and well designed units, all the way down to the mounting screws that are already staged in the fixture - just position the fixture, grab your favorite driver/drill and run the screws in - no third hand needed.
E-lights is a great outfit - nothing but good words to say about them and Kichler.
John
Thanks for the info John, great links!I assume from the links, that one must install a valance or apron in the foreground to conceal the light fixture. If so, I must say that I still prefer the look of puck lights. However they probably do put off more light. I cant find the literature on my lights to provide a name or model, however I am using the Xenon bulbs too. They are far superior to halogen bulbs and much cooler!
Also I assume with the Kichler system, you don't have the cost of an expensive magnetic transformer.PhilEdited 12/23/2004 8:08 pm ET by PhillK
Edited 12/23/2004 8:09 pm ET by PhillK
Phil,
Most cabs I see these days, the carcass sides and the face frame extends down past the bottom, creating a recess for undercab lights.
When I recently put the Kichler fixtures on some old cabs that we re-finished and re-used, I ripped down some 3/4" S4S poplar and made a valance to conceal the fixtures. 3/4" leaves just a bit of the fixture exposed, but in our case, everything was white and thus was hardly noticeable.
No transformer is required, as these are line-voltage fixtures. Saves both cost, potential maintenance and space.
Still, the concealability and sleek appearance of the pucks is indeed hard to beat.
John
John,Thanks for all the feedback, insight and comments. Today I think I'll start a thread on Soffit / Holiday lighting recepticles (almost done hanging the X-mas lights outside).Merry ChristmasPhil
Edited 12/24/2004 10:32 am ET by PhillK
Merry Christmas, Phil and also to all the folks here at BT. May the new year find you all well and prosperous.
Hey Phil - I ran across another thread that showed a few pics of your reno project. It was a thread on Tyvek, I think. That looks like an interesting house. Where is it located? Any more threads/pics?
John
Nice tutorial.
would make for a nice small article in the mag with all the great pics.
I'd tape the wire nuts first so I didn't pull anything loose though ... 'cause that's my kinda luck. "fits great ... hey .. how come that middle one don't work no more ...."
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry in Carpentry
Pgh, PA
Thanks Jeff,Actually I did wrap the nuts w/ elec. tape before they were stuffed in the holes, Did'nt get a picture of that, my helper was in a hurry to leave (the wife) so I was running out of time! LOLPhil
What is punk lighting? You certainly did the right thing & would love to know manufacturer, etc. Need this for kitchen, etc in new home.
Thanks!
Sadie, Sadie, Sadie -Reread the thread. Your answers are there with footnotes and links. Couldn't be much easier.F
Thanks, more careful reading did disclose some needed info. Not being an electrician and having built only 1 home previously, so much of this general knowledge is new to me. Both this site as well as this particular thread have been of immense help for me to work with electrician.