Replies

1. 
   Piffin | May 06, 2004 03:35am | #1

   Almost anything is cheaper in quantity.

   Ever buy any nails?

   Bet you get them by the box instead of by the pound or by the each.

    

    

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1. 
   BossHog | May 07, 2004 02:44pm | #9

   Regarding nails and boxes -

   I worked up the pricing sheets once at one of the lumberyard/truss plants I worked at.

   Boxes of nails were marked up 25%. Loose nails were marked up 125%.

   The owner figured he lost almost half the loose nails due to people taking 10# and telling the counter guy they only had 5#. And he also allowed for losses for the ones dropped on the floor.One doesn't discover new lands without consenting to lose sight of the shore for a very long time.

1. 
   Flbob | May 07, 2004 04:53pm | #10

   Cutting steel with Sawzall-blades will last a lot longer if you use a slower speed and a little oil.  I've cut some pretty heavy steel (8" i-beam) with one blade.  They actually cut better/faster at a slower speed with good pressure.  Heat is the problem.  In machine shop I was taught the chip carried away the heat so adequate pressure is needed to make sure you are actually cutting an every stroke.

2. 
   remodelerdw | May 06, 2004 03:40am | #2

   >I bought 200 blade including 25 Torch and 25 Ax blades for $329

   Sawzall blades seem excessively expensive to me for what you get.  It's not like they're carbide tipped or sharpening each tooth.  I want a source of cheap chinese blades for like .25 each - the torch blades typically last me two cuts through 2-3" galvanized pipe on demo work - for $4 or whatever they run!  And I go through a lot of them.  Current year's sawzall blade expense category = >$200.

   remodeler

1. 
   Sphere | May 06, 2004 11:31pm | #3

   They CAN be sharpened..not to brandy new standards , but I can whip out a dozen in about 20 minutes or less.

   A decent vise ( or a crappy one with wider wood jaws double stick taped in place) and an angle grinder with the SKINNY cut off wheel..and watch yer eyes.

   Just grind into the gullet till the top of the tooth is renewed (at an angle and ya may have to "dress" the cutoff wheel a bit) it will not always be the same TPI but for most blades that I use , the nail embedded wood or the fire and rescue, they will cut fine.

   forget about resetting the 'set' it won't happen with BIMETAL blades..unless ya have ground past the hardend part and into the softer backing steel..then ya got trash or stock for a good whittlin knife..lol

   2 or 3 sharpenings at most..but at 11.00$ for two Fire and rescue blades it helps a little..and I'm not too close to a store when I realize that WAS the last new blade..

   now if I can figure out how to keep them from breaking at the tang..View Image

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations. 

1. 
   jonblakemore | May 07, 2004 01:10am | #4

   My blades are usually bent pretty badly by the time they dull.

   Any tricks up your sleeve? 

   Jon Blakemore

1. 
   4Lorn2 | May 07, 2004 01:27am | #5

   Blades bending is possible in normal use, especially in old work where what your cutting and the access to it can be profoundly variable.

   That said I have found that the blades do tend to bend more often when they get dull and start overheating. Perhaps regular sharpening would help prevent some of the bending of the blades.

   At the extreme end of the spectrum, when the teeth are gone and you start 'burning' your way through the wood. The blades loose all temper and can be seen, in dark conditions, to glow. They are quite tender in this situation to bending.

   Of course the blade is a total loss but lacking any alternative I have been known to heat up a badly bent blade with a propane torch and straighten them with pliers. While still hot I quench them in water, or even better, oil. The later lending some hardness while adding some temper to help prevent shattering.

   The other thing that seems to help is wedging, Electricians might use their long suffering beater screwdriver as it is handy, the cut open so it doesn't bind the blade.

2. 
   Sphere | May 07, 2004 02:14am | #6

   like 4Lorn said..and, I carry a Schrade multi tool the pliers will get my hot crooked blade sorta straight..geeze that sounds pornografic..lol

   seems I bend blades more cutting steel and when I am welding the Schrade's wire cutter is always being used to cut my MIG wire, so it's a natcheral for the bent hot blades ..

   View Image

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations. 

2. 
   JohnSprung | May 07, 2004 04:07am | #7

   > typically last me two cuts through 2-3" galvanized pipe on demo work - for $4

   Sawzall cutting steel pipe is like a dog walking on its hind legs.  I use the angle grinder for pipe as much as possible, and only go to a recip saw where the grinder won't fit.  A lot of cuts can be done mostly with the grinder, and finished off with the recip.  I haven't figured it out, but it seems like the grinder disks are more cost effective, too.

   -- J.S.

1. 
   ANDYSZ2 | May 07, 2004 04:23am | #8

   I love those torch blades 1 blade cut at the bottom 9 fence posts with the chain link still attached in about 15 minutes rolled the fence up with hedge row and all cut with ax blade in another 30 minutes and made 200$ in 1 hour. You never forget those moments.

   ANDYSZ2I MAY DISAGREE WITH WHAT YOUR SAYING BUT I WILL DEFEND TO THE DEATH YOUR RIGHT TO SAY IT.

   Remodeler/Punchout