Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Dec 28, 1998 09:45pm | #1

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   Brent: what kind of heating system do you have (forced-air, hot water radiators, etc) and how is it run to the bedroom relative the rest of the house?

   If you have forced-air heating, do you have a return-air duct from the bedroom? If not, and the door is kept closed, very little air will go into the room without some way to get back, eventually, to the blower inlet.

   -David

2. 
   brent_collins | Dec 29, 1998 02:23am | #2

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   Fred, thanks for the reply. Here is a little more background for you.

   1. Natural Gas - Forced Air.
   2. There is a return air duct right inside the double doors of master bedroom.
   3. There is a crawl space that has insulation against the foundation.
   4. Basement seems to be warmer than the rest of the up stairs.
   5. We have two vent in the main bedroom. One in the mater bathroom and one in the walk in closet.
   6. The bedroom is about 500 sqft.
   7. We have one door that leads to the backyard.
   8. The home is one level with a basement.
   9. The duct work is fiberglass insulated tubing.

   We have had the heating company come out and try to redirect air to this part of the house with no success.

   Thanks in advance for your help!

   Brent Collins

1. 
   gerard_y | Dec 30, 1998 10:28am | #3

   *Does anyone know of a good sealent and source for my forced air system i.e tape etc. I have some good leakage in the 2 main trunks I would like to correct without ripping it out????

3. 
   Guest_ | Dec 30, 1998 11:54am | #4

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   I can't resist. Isn't is an appropriate job for duct tape? Sealing up a duct? Considering all the other things we use it for. -David

1. 
   Guest_ | Dec 30, 1998 04:57pm | #5

   *Butyl rubber tape with a foil backing. Try your local plumbing/heating supply store. Home centers won't have it. BTW - David, duct tape in my experience is good for a few years then it turns to powder, or tears.

1. 
   Guest_ | Dec 30, 1998 07:12pm | #6

   *There's an article here about duct tape:http://www.homeenergy.org/tocs.noframes.htmland to seal ducts use RCD #6 available here:http://www.efi.org/products/weather/insul.htmlBy the way, the http://www.efi.org site is worth some web surfing time.

1. 
   Guest_ | Dec 30, 1998 07:32pm | #7

   *Duct tape was invented by the military for applications that have nothing to do with heater ducts. Mainly, it was for temporary repairs, with the key word being temporary. The foil backed tape is commonly called "silver tape" at supply houses. I got a blank stare once when I tried to buy some and used the specification number. A plumber in line behind me said, "Silver tape," to the counter man, and I got what I needed. Although I haven't experienced the foil backed tape failures described in the article Bill Conner recommends, I believe it's conventional wisdom that ducts should be sealed primarily with a mastic, then the joints covered with the tape.Barry

4. 
   Patrick_M. | Dec 31, 1998 03:22am | #8

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   Brent

   If you do replace your flex duct with metal duct be sure they stick as close to the ASHRAE standard of 30' max per run, where one 90 degree bend=10'. I encountered a similar problem a couple of years ago where the duct snaked 50' with 12- 90 degree bends.The final detail had it running inside an uninsulated bulkhead for the final 12'. It was already cold air by then.

5. 
   brent_collins | Dec 31, 1998 03:22am | #9

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   Our house is one year old. Having trouble with the master bedroom being several degrees cooler in the winter. The master bedroom doesn't have a basement under it. However, the rest of the house does. I have been told that this should not matter. Any suggestions?