Replies

1. 
   andybuildz | Jun 02, 2003 02:48pm | #1

   tex

       Not sure where the article is but you might write Andy Engle and I'm sure he'll hook you right up.

   You also might want to get yourself a water level.....works really well on siding along with a story pole.

   My question is.....primed Masonite??????

   a

    

    

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   http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM

2. 
   MojoMan | Jun 02, 2003 02:55pm | #2

   Off topic, but I'm with Andy...Fiberboard siding has a very bad history around here. It eventually soaks up water and swells and falls apart. You might want to consider an alternative.

   Al Mollitor, Sharon MA

1. 
   ScottMatson | Jun 02, 2003 04:03pm | #3

   Well, I'm with those guys in recommending strongly against the Masonite, though I have heard they have improved it the last few years.

   I'm currently replacing that stuff on a house with fibercement. The fiberboard siding is less than 15 years old and much of it is rotted.

   What you may consider is making a story pole that conforms the siding to the tops of the windows. I don't think the soffit board is as important as making the window tops easy to side and flash. So take your height at about 1/4-1/2" above your window top from the water table, or bottom of the first course, and divide in inches what you want your exposure to be, or step it off with dividers and adjust to get it to an even increment, then make your story pole from that.

   That should be clear as mud, eh?

   Dog

3. 
   xMikeSmith | Jun 02, 2003 07:41pm | #4

   tex.. you didn't say what teh max exposure is.. but i'll guess 10"

   take the total ht. in inches  and divide by 10.. for example..

   bottom of soffit to bottom of siding = 95" / 10 = 9.5 so you will have 9 1/2 courses.. but you don't want 9 1/2 courses so you round up to 10

   do it again...95 /10 = 9.5.. so you will have 10 courses @ 9.5"

   like mad dog said.. the 3 elements you would like to hit are

   bottom of frieze...top of windown.. and bottom of window sill.. you may have to divide the total wall ht into those three sapaces and calculate a different exposure for each.. witha  n apx 10" exposure.. you could have your spacing vary as much as 1" and still "fool the eye "

   hitting those elements makes for a much more professional looking job.. but it isn't always possible..

   as to using the story pole.. we snap a refernce line  ( with a transit or laser ) all the way around the house after we have the paper on.. ( or not )..we mark the elements on the story pole (frieze, top, & bottom) and the refernce mark.. then each course from the calculations above.... then walk around the house with the story-pole and double check..

   good -to - go

   Mike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

   
   

   ---

   Edited 6/2/2003 12:46:59 PM ET by Mike Smith

1. 
   captainstu | Jun 04, 2003 05:20am | #9

   Thanks Mike, your info is exactly what I was after!

   Tex

1. 
   captainstu | Jun 04, 2003 05:36am | #10

   Thanks for the info on the storypole use, I didn't even think about the importance of the tops of the windows.  I agree with all about using the primed masonite siding but believe it or not it is called for by the architect.  The project is an all volunteer built replacement house for a 76 year old lady whose original home burnt down.  I think using the masonite vs hardiplank is due to cost and for what its worth both sides of the siding plank are primed.  I was planning for an 8 inch exposure but will consider 10" unless it will somehow violate the manufacturers warranty. We are just about ready to start the siding so I appreciate all the help and advice!

1. 
   xMikeSmith | Jun 04, 2003 06:34am | #11

   tex.. i was just guessing on the exposure.. ( 10" ).. really it depends on the mfr's spec.  and your requirements.. ( and what will work out to hit those elements )..

   8" may tip the siding  more than you want.. but the mfr. may want more headlap than 2"Mike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

4. 
   sungod | Jun 02, 2003 09:31pm | #5

   Masonite siding failure happens when the board absorbs moisture.  So the question is, do all masonite siding get painted or primed on both sides now?  And will painting and priming all sides and cuts make it last forever?  I noticed unpainted or chiped siding doesnt last long.

   Gordon

1. 
   Piffin | Jun 03, 2003 01:29am | #6

   Wouldn't a Sungod know that the proper answer lies in making all the appropriate sacrifices to keep the rain away? Things like the blood of a slave applied to the foundation, your firstborn, things like that....

   LOL.

   Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   BungalowJeff | Jun 03, 2003 11:45am | #7

   My brother was part of a class action suit because they used masonite on an old condo of his. I'm a bit surprised it is allowed at all....that's not a mistake, it's rustic

5. 
   SteveInCleveland | Jun 03, 2003 03:01pm | #8

   masonite.......... boo!

   hardiplank ......... yea!