Using a dry sink for a lavatory base
We have a very old dry sink (it belonged to my great grandparents) & we’d like to use it in our bathroom as a lavatory base <vanity?> (we’re building our own home & want it to look like an old farmhouse).
I plan to find a bowl style lavatory & cut a hole in the top for the sink to sit in.
My main concern is obviously water since the top of the dry sink is wood. I’ve thought of treating it with several layers of sealant or possibly attaching a sheet of plexiglass (or something like that) to the top to protect it.
Anyone else have any suggestions or is this really not a good idea?
Replies
Hmm... To your eye, does a sheet plastic top "look like an old farmhouse"? If it does, go for it. If it doesn't, you might conside covering the dry sink's top with sheet metal -- zinc, or galvanized steel. You could experiment with various chemicals to quick-age the surface.
No, plexiglass doesn't look like an old farmhouse to me, I'm just trying to think of ways to protect the surface from water. Being able to protect it with some sort of clear coating would be much preferred.
ST
A lot of old drysinks have tin lining in them. You could go with galvanized tin or even copper. Once the copper has "aged" it wont look to shinny. You can chemically age it to speed the process up.
I do something along these lines before I'd use a piece of Plexiglass. I also don't like the idea of coating the dry sink with some kind of finish, wont look all that natural.
Doug
I think that one of your best shots to get a answer on your question is one of the woodworker forums,wood is their forte. Lots of luck.
It can be a really good idea. It can also be a stinky idea. It's in the exectution of the idea that makes the difference.
The first thing I'd do is find a furniture/cabinet shop and bring them the piece and ask what they'd do for a waterproof finish that would be suitable to the peice. I know the one person I'd ask in my town, but if it were Dallas or Austin, I'd check with 2-3.
Why the bother? Well you'd hate to take a "WOW!" item on Antiques Roadshow and just slap a couple coats of high-gloss PE clear coat on it and go from there. What you need is some expertise in good clear coats (meaning being sensitive to sheen, tint, longevity, etc.) Also, you don't want to chop holes in an antique with a 5 decimal place replacement value, either.
Ok, so we worked out what to clear coat the outside, you might just want to do the inside, too--unless you can find never leak, never replaced plumbing fixtures <G>.
After you find a nice bowl (there are some very nice repro bowls that emulate the fine ceramic work on the old commdes & dry sinks), I'd take the piec back to the shop and have them cut the hole to fit, and seal the cut edges.
Now, the next thing would be to meet with the plumber, too. It can be a little bit more critical getting plumbing to fit a vintage peice of furniture rather than a plain ol' cabinet.
It can be done, and done well. The marble top commode cabinets can be easier to deal with, but it can still work. Takes some planning, though, and some thinking ahead.
Don't forget some of the little details, either, like using a framed mirror on the wall, or a more "period" faucet (you might want to look at some of the through-the-wall faucets).
Thanks. I think I know a good guy to ask now that you mention it. My brother had some new cabinets custom built in his house & they were flawless.
I'm definitely planning to go with through the wall faucets. The framed mirror is good too.
I just finished doing this dbl. My wife wanted me to "sink" em' in but I think this looks way nicer and more authentic.
Sunk in or on top I just used about four coats initially of Butchers wax on the table top.In my other bathroom I did the same and since, I've waxed it the second one again which takes all of two minutes.
Be well
andy.
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