I bought an old heavy duty floor model bandsaw that has a 14″ throat capacity. It was well looked after and is in great condition. I have a number of used 6 x 6 cedar posts 5 ‘ to 8 ‘ long and 30 some 1-1/2″ x 10″ wide x 16 ft. long cedar boards. I’m looking to get some advice on whether it would be feasible to engineer some type of feed system and use the bandsaw to cut 1/2″ – 5/8″ thick boards from these posts and boards that could be used for covering the walls of our cottage or den I’m constructing out of an existing garage. I bought a CD on constructing a wood bandsaw specifically for cutting boards this way and started to think about using the bandsaw I already have. It may be right out in left field but I thought I’d throw it out for discussion. Any input would be very much appreciated. Thanks. Murr |
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A lot of the guys who re-saw old wood prefer a band saw to a table saw. It's safer because they don't kick back and they're a bit more forgiving of embedded junk.
-- J.S.
What is this cd and where did you get it ?
: )
The person you offend today, may have been your best friend tomorrow
It is easy to be friends with someone you always agree with.
I bought the CD on Ebay from a seller called warznorth. It gives you all the info. on how to build a bandsaw for cutting logs etc.
Thank you Murr.The name there is actually Wareznorth.The word "Warez" is slang for pirated software.Dunno if that means anything here...I do know you got me googling on homemade bandsaws again.: )Thanks.
The person you offend today, may have been your best friend tomorrow It is easy to be friends with someone you always agree with.
It ain't so much the saw, its the blade.
When you say a 14" wide throat, you mean a 14" resaw cap? ( that is table to blade guides) or 14" from blade to upper wheel support?
Either way, yes..A BS is the choice for resawing posts or boards safely, and with less kerf loss.
If the motor is 3/4 hp or larger, be looking for a "woodslicer" blade..a 1/2" wideX 3TPI, or a 3/4"wide X 3TPI is what yer after.
I get mine from highland hardware in Atlanta.
It's fun..get some roller stands and be careful.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Sell your cleverness, Purchase Bewilderment"...Rumi
Most 14" saws say they'll take a 3/4" blade, but they can't tension it properly.
6 16 17 97 99
As Sphere said, 1/2" 3tpi is what you need...
Suprisingly, the woodslicer needs a lot less tension, my 5 YO 14" Rigid does fine with it....best blade out there IMO.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Sell your cleverness, Purchase Bewilderment"...Rumi
"Band Saw: Adjusting for Blade Drift
The final phase of the band-saw tune-up is to adjust for drift. Unlike table saws, band saws possess a nuance called drift. This term refers to the fact that every blade has a tendency to cut slightly in one direction or the other. Fortunately, the drift for a particular blade remains consistent throughout the life of the blade. Therefore, the fence on the band saw can be adjusted slightly to compensate for that angle.
There was an article in FWW a few months back about setting up yer saw better.
One of the points was "eliminate" drift altogether. I have my saw tweaked for this with a Woodslicer blade..I don't have a factory fence, but I can clamp a fence parrallel to either edge of the table, and get a tablesaw like cut..NO drift at all.
Drift is caused mostly by not tracking in the true center of the wheel or a dull/bad blade, or improperly set guides( no matter what type you have , bearing, pinch etc.).
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Sell your cleverness, Purchase Bewilderment"...Rumi
Used the same info from the FWW article to set up my Ridgid 14" BS. Perfect cuts - no drift. I also use the 1/2" 3 TPI Woodslicer from Highland Hdw. - great blade.
I did install roller guides on the BS - like them much better than the stock metal guides or Cool Blocks.
Truely a great blade and article..I still have the stock guides and , like you, perfect cuts. Anything imperfect is operator error on my part.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Sell your cleverness, Purchase Bewilderment"...Rumi
You guys don't happen to remember which issue that was, do you? Free speech leads to a free society.
Let me look in the porcelin library..gotta be there.
edit: Dec/ #173.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Sell your cleverness, Purchase Bewilderment"...Rumi
Edited 3/25/2005 9:02 am ET by SPHERE
Miami. I read the article at the DIY site and I see what you and everyone are talking about re: drift and risers.
The article mentioned using a $1 bill to set bearing to blade clearance. I'm in Ontario, Canada and we only have "Loonies and Toonies" for our $1 & $2 dollars which are coins. Guess I'll have to go the expensive route and use our $5 bill which is still paper !:):):)
Have a good week-end and thanks for your information.
Murr
I think $5 Canadian is worth about $1 US so you'd be OK with the 5 spot.
That was cold Martha. Funny, but cold.
If you've got a Delta bandsaw, you can buy the riser kit to give you a 12" ( high) resaw capacity. I have one on mine and its well worth it.
I think it will fit on some other brands, as well.
Shep...excuse my ignorance, but could you explain what a 12" riser is on a bandsaw. I think I know what you mean but would be better off if you would explain.
Thanks.
Murr
I can help you out here. A riser block is actually about 5"..it increases your resaw capacity to about 11" (vs. the 5.5 on most 14" saws) it also dictates a 105" blade vs. a 93.5 thatis common.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Sell your cleverness, Purchase Bewilderment"...Rumi
What Sphere said.
The kit comes with the riser bolck, as well as all the necessary hardware and blade guard extensions.
With the kit installed, and after a little fine tuning of your bandsaw and the right blade, you can easily resaw 10-11" wide boards.