Replies

1. 
   grpphoto | Apr 04, 2007 11:36pm | #1

   You're likely to get some bad splits around nails, especially at the ends of boards. The boards shrink between the nails, but the nails stay put. Might also cause some cupping for the same reason.

   George Patterson, Patterson Handyman Service

2. 
   woodguy99 | Apr 04, 2007 11:39pm | #2

   Green decking is frequently installed.  It's called soaking wet pressure treated.  Standard practice is to but the boards tight or space them with a small nail.  When dry the gaps can be up to 1/2", with the cupping and splitting already mentioned.

    

    

    

3. 
   Brian | Apr 05, 2007 12:33am | #3

   Roger, I have done exactly what you are proposing, with 6/4 white oak, random widths, very green.

   The openings were larger than I thought they would be, after everything dried.

   My plan was to pull the boards up and push them tightly together, once they dried.  But the drying oak held every screw so tightly that I couldn't get any out.  One board was 18" wide - the gaps next to that one could claim small children.

   It will work for a rustic look, but our kids kept stubbing their toes on the cupped boards.  We liked it at first, but regretted it later - your biggest fear came true.

   If I had it to do again, I would dry it, then have the mill make t&g decking.  Our local mill kiln dries for very little $$, and cuts t&g for .20 lft.  I think kiln dry is 2 months wait.  Can you trade someone for dry boards?

   Best wishes on your decking.

   Treat every person you meet like you will know them the rest of your life - you just might!
4. 
   BUIC | Apr 05, 2007 12:41am | #4

   Roger, Let me preface this by saying I've never tried this. Just throwin' the idea out there.

     What if you screw them down along one edge only? Butt them tight. Screw the other edge down after they've had a chance to dry "in place", maybe a month or two later.

     Like I said, just a thought...buic

5. 
   frenchy | Apr 05, 2007 02:08am | #5

   MrSQL

         I air dried all my deck boards (interior subflooring)  8/4 and they dried a minimum of three years..

    I jammed everything together as tight as I could. (nailed blocking and used prybars to ensure they were tight)   Now  few years later typical gaps are 3/8ths to 1/2 inch some much bigger.  

     My biggest complaint is all the work  I will have to deal with on the cupping issue before I can lay my finished floor down..

     

1. 
   MrSQL | Apr 05, 2007 03:11am | #6

   Thanks all,

   There is a kiln local, the main issue is all the labor in transporting it there.  I do have a guy who will T&G it for .35 per lineal foot.

   I hadn't given cupping too much thought, so thanks from bring that to  mind.

   One additional thought was to speed up the air drying by running a fan.  I have a moisture meeter and I've noticed that the wood dries a lot faster when it's windy; so why not help nature out a bit with the fan.

   Roger <>< 

     

6. 
   Jeff_Clarke | Apr 05, 2007 08:18am | #7

   Doesn't oak turn black upon exposure to the elements?

   Jeff

1. 
   MrSQL | Apr 05, 2007 08:20pm | #8

   I've seen oak turn black with exposure to iron and water.  I think it's the tanins in the oak reacting with the metal.  I'll use stainless steel screws and will coat it with some kind of penetrating sealer to prevent staining from stuff that falls on it.

     

1. 
   JAlden | Apr 05, 2007 09:32pm | #10

   I believe it is Red Oak that turns black. The White is good for exterior.

   Frenchy, is this correct?

    

1. 
   frenchy | Apr 05, 2007 09:44pm | #12

   JAladen,

    White oat will turn grey like anyother wood when exposed to weather, White oak won't rot,,

    unless exposed to steel nails or screws, use stainless.. (even galvanized is a risk)

2. 
   frenchy | Apr 05, 2007 09:42pm | #11

   Jeff,

    In time it will turn grey but at about the same pace as any other wood will grey out..

     However you'd darn well better not use anything but stainless steel nails/screws or they will rust, the wood will blacken and rot and the nails will rust away..

1. 
   Jeff_Clarke | Apr 05, 2007 10:25pm | #13

   "In time it will turn grey ..."

   Well ... we have something in common then ;o)Jeff

7. 
   rez | Apr 05, 2007 08:38pm | #9

   bump

   Parolee # 53804

8. 
   DavidxDoud | Apr 06, 2007 07:39pm | #14

   what makes you think I know anything?

   anyway -

   I have a bud who has a white oak deck - it behaves very well - but...it rarely if ever sees direct sunlight, and it's built out off a hill so it is well elevated and ventilated underneath - -

   green wood is gonna shrink - wider stuff means wider cracks - saw wide stuff down to 6" or less to minimize the cracks -

   quartersawn is more stable than flat sawn - if you have flat sawn to use,  put the heart side up to minimize cupping -

   here's a pict of that deck - it's a pict of the 'mark 1' incarnation - friend lived with that for 10 years or so,  and three years ago, tore it up, and revamped - new floor plan with more width/space - the white oak deck had held up well,  but some of the scabby framing had deteriorated - new deck is nicely tricked out and should last the rest of friends life -

   View Image

    

   "there's enough for everyone"