I have a house that I have been asked to give a quote on for installing vinyl ceiling panels (like you would commonly see on a porch ceiling) under an addition that has just been installed. The addition sticks out from the side of the house about 15 feet and is open underneth, about 10 feet off the ground supported by columns. Right now, it’s all exposed underneath the guys new living room, with insulation, pipes, and vents all showing between the 2×10 floor joist.
Seems like it would be strait forward, just cover it all with the vinyl siding ceiling panels, but if anyone knows of anything that might not be obvious that needs to be considered while doing this (vapor barriers, venting and such), I’d be interested to hear about it.
The house is in raleigh nc
st
Replies
I am not a big fan of vinyl soffit panels under a living space, or even small cantilevers. I have done that type of install, but now only do it if I can put up 1/2 plywood before the soffit paneling.
You mentioned piping, insulation and vents showing from beneath the floor. Vinyl will not give an air tight covering. The floor above will get cold no matter how much insulation is up there, because of a very high air exchange in the floor cavities. If you get freezing weather, expect those pipes to freeze up.
Any vapor barrier should have already been installed on the warm side of the assembly. Adding one on the cold side now will create significant problems with condensation, mold, etc. in the joist area.
Add a layer of 1/2 plywood or wafer board. Glue it, nail it, and caulk all joints and seams. Make it as air tight as possible, and then add the vinyl soffit material as the exterior finish.
Dave
make sense.
just in case the homeowner should ask if the there is a cheaper way than plywood or osb (I get asked such questions all the time), would tryvek work as a substitute for the plywood / osb before the vinyl soffit to cut down on the air exchange?
Probably would to some extent. It is supposed to be an air infitration barrier, but I have never used it without some type of sheathing board under it. It might be difficult to handle and get air tight seals in an overhead application. I am not sure how well the tyvek tape would stick to framing lumber (long term), atthe edges.
Dave
David...tyvek tape DOES NOT STICK TO WOOD AT ALL.
I had to do a tyvek seminar for a builder that we used to frame for.
blueWarning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. Although I have a lifetime of framing experience, all of it is considered bottom of the barrel by Gabe. I am not to be counted amongst the worst of the worst. If you want real framing information...don't listen to me..just ask Gabe!
getting ready to do that vinyl ceiling job soon on the cantilever.
You mentioned putting up osb or ply on the joist before the vinyl to stop air infiltration. Would rigid foam board, taped & caulked, work just as well in its place? seems like it would provide better insulation and be easier to work with than the ply / osb, or the tryvek.
thanks,
st
Look at this job.
http://forums.prospero.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=tp-breaktime&msg=45999.1&maxT=12