FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter Instagram Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

Wainscot and Drywall Window Jambs?

Ryan1 | Posted in Construction Techniques on July 21, 2008 04:54am

How would you approach the installation of beadboard wainscot in a room with 2 windows with sheetrock window jambs? The windows have a stool and apron, but no casing and the sheetrock on the walls just return to the windows.

Would you rip out the sheetrock jambs, install proper jambs, install longer stool to allow new casing to sit on it, then let the wainscot and chair rail die into the new casing (or possibly band molding depending on thickness)?

Or is there a clever way for the beadboard to just end without dying into casing? Obviously I could cut a return for the chair rail, but I’m not sure how the beadboard would work out.

Also, with respect to the window stool, is it preferable to notch the beadboard to fit around the stool or notch the stool to allow the beadboard to slide behind?

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Reply

Replies

  1. maverick | Jul 21, 2008 07:39pm | #1

    no need to remove any drywall. install a new stool and add casing around the window.

    cut the new stool 1 1/2" longer than the outside to outside casing measurement.  

    notch the ears of the stool so the beadboard can slide behind and up to the casing.

    measure outside to outside of the casing and cut a new apron to that lenth. install a new apron over the beadboard.

    1. Ryan1 | Jul 21, 2008 08:00pm | #2

      Yeah, that was my first thought also, and it still may be the way to go, but I'm fairly concerned that the reveal where the new casing meets the drywall jambs will be a real bear to keep consistent. I haven't been able to really check it yet, but obviously the sheetrock jambs just follow the RO, so who knows how square it really is. Depending on squareness, this route may be the way that I go.Another question, currently there is approx 8" or 9" of space betweeen these 2 windows. 2 separate stools and 2 separate aprons. After adding casing to this space, there will only be 3" or 4" of space between the windows. Would you carry the beadboard up into this narrow space between windows? Would you be inclined to run one continuous stool and apron for both windows? I'd love to hear some ideas on how to handle this.

      1. maverick | Jul 21, 2008 08:20pm | #3

        there are several options

        with the windows that close together, if you add 2 1/2" for each casing, then 1/4" reveal twice, then 3/4" more for the ears of separate stools that would give you 7 inches total.

        looks like only an inch or 2 left between the stools. if the windows are not exactly on the same plane that would show ugly.

        I might be inclined to;

        1) common stool and apron with separate casings

        2) common stool, apron and casing then plane a 1x8 to 3/8" for a mull strip. if the mull strip is looking too wide you could dress it up with a little detailing

        think about what kind of window treatments are going back after you're done. sometimes the mrs. will cover the whole dang thing with curtains anywho

        1. Ryan1 | Jul 21, 2008 08:50pm | #4

          I was thinking about a mull strip also, but how to handle the top? Would you cut it a little short of the top of the 2 casings? Maybe add a small cap at the top? Or would you carry it flush to the top of the casings?I didn't know what a mull strip was called by the way, thanks.Thanks for all your help with this. I really appreciate it. And the windows are only getting white 2" blinds.I'm thinking a common stool and apron really looks like the way to go. If 2 separate stools were just a hair off, being that close together they would really look like ca-ca.

          1. maverick | Jul 21, 2008 08:59pm | #5

            if you are using common apron and stool with 2 separate casing sets then there will be no mull strip.

             in that case put in a small piece of beadboard (sitting on the stool and butting the casings) and whatever you are using for chair rail

          2. Ryan1 | Jul 21, 2008 09:19pm | #6

            Gotcha. Thanks.

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Fine Homebuilding – April/May 2023, Issue #314

Find online articles on options for countertops, wood-boring bits, ductless heat pumps, tighter miters, fences, and much more.

Featured Video

Video: Build a Fireplace, Brick by Brick

Get an overview of the process of creating a traditional-style fireplace that burns well and meets current building codes from experienced mason Mike Mehaffey.

Related Stories

  • Podcast 549: Energy Upgrades, Chimney Inspections, and Questions About a Home You Might Buy
  • Podcast 549: Members-only Aftershow—Patios vs. Decks
  • Podcast 548: PRO TALK With Design/Build Operations Manager Jessica Bishop-Smyser
  • Strategies for Venting a Roof Valley

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

BOOKS, DVDs, & MERCH

Shop the Store
  • 2022 Fine Homebuilding Archive
    Buy Now
  • Code Check Building 4th Edition
    Buy Now
  • 2023 Tool Guide
    Buy Now
  • Pretty Good House
    Buy Now
  • Shop the Store

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 314 - April/May 2023
    • 7 Options for Countertops
    • Tool Test: Wood-Boring Bits
    • Critical Details for Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 313 - Feb/March 2023
    • Practical System for a Seismic Retrofit
    • Fine Homebuilding Issue #313 Online Highlights
    • Practical System for a Seismic Retrofit
  • Issue 312 - Dec 2022/Jan 2023
    • Tool Test: Cordless Tablesaws
    • Gray-Water System for a Sustainable Home
    • Insulate a Cape Roof to Avoid Ice Dams
  • Issue 311 - November 2022
    • 7 Steps to a Perfect Exterior Paint Job
    • Options for Smarter Home-Energy Tracking
    • The Fine Homebuilding Interview: James Metoyer
  • Issue 310 - October 2022
    • Choosing a Tile-Leveling System
    • Choosing Between HRVs and ERVs
    • Custom Built-in Cabinets Made Easy

Fine Homebuilding

Follow

  • twitter
  • facebook
  • instagram
  • pinterest

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences

Taunton Network

  • Green Building Advisor
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Fine Gardening
  • Threads
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Copyright
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2023 The Taunton Press, Inc. All rights reserved.

X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Shop the Store

  • Books
  • DVDs
  • Taunton Workshops

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • twitter
  • facebook
  • instagram
  • pinterest

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in