We are in the process of un-remuddling our MCM. I was exploring (in an inconspicuos corner) how to remove the wainscoting in the master bedroom (see picture #1) with a small prybar and hammer and found this (see picture #2). It looks like the whole thing is made of something like 
sculpted drywall. Any ideas on what this is and how best to remove it? It looks like a small job just became something else. Thanks!
Built from locally sawn hemlock, this functional outdoor feature uses structural screws and metal connectors for fast, sturdy construction.
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Replies
I can't see the photo clearly, but is it MDF?
It could be MDF. Just never seen it in this form before. And there's a good possibility the entire piece from top rail down is the same material including the inset section. I'm thinking the whole thing has to be ripped off the wall and the drywall replaced. I just don't know how to do the demo.
You just do it...
Some wainscott is applied directly to the studs. Some is aplied over drywall. At the top of the wainscott, you can measure the projection of the chair rail from the drywall above it, then take some measurements below (face of the chair rail to the face of the stiles and rails) and compare those measurements.
If you think this is a remodel, then it's probably surface applied.
If you remove an outlet cover you can sometimes see the layers that make up the wall. Depends on the type of box, etc.
A lot of times with demo, you just have to jump in. Run a knife blade between the chair rail and druywall to score and paint buildup. That should prevent you from delaminating the face of the drywall above the chair rail when the wainscott is pulled away from it.
I'd get a prybar between the chair rail and the wainscot top rail and demo the chair rail first. With it being some sort of fiberboard, it might be tedious. That'll expose the top rail versus drywall instersection.
You can place a board on the drywall (over a stud is best) and leverage your prybar against that as you try to pry the top rail of the wainscot away from the wall. That'll prevent the prybar putting a point load on the drywall and blowing a hole through the drywall.
When demoing a run of trim like that, it may also help to work your way across the wall a bit at a time. ie, pry the wainscot away from the wall to get a 1/8" gap. then start over and pry aong the entire length to get a 1/4" gap. Repeat, repeat, repeat.
And as has been mentioned, nails versus adhesive? You can get differing results in terms of how the wainscot separates from the wall.
Demo? You have to take a fluid or flexible approach. Lots of techniques. Lots of shifting gears. You'll eventualy find something that works. It also depends if you're trying to save the drywall behind the wainscot, or if you'll be installing new.
If you already know you'll be demoing the drywall behind the wainscot, then you could also cut through the full depth of the drywall right above the chair rail. Then you can pry the drywall and wanscott as one right off the studs. If need be you can make vertical cuts along the run of wainscot, cutting through the wainscot and the drywall behind it, and pop it off the studs in 2' - 3' wide sections.
Anything and everything goes in demo.
If the house was built in 55 there's a good chance the walls are plaster over rock lath.
Hi Dan--no clue when it was installed. One of the previous owners did it. Good question about the top rail. I'll check it out. The material is either a pressed paper or sawdust--it feels more like paper. Never seen a decorative moulding like this in my life. The was built in '55. I grew up in a house much like it so I have a pretty good idea what it looked like then and where we need to restore it.
Thanks for the help. I think we've got an answer. It's mdf wainscoting panels which means they are probably attached with construction adhesive. Pass the aspirin. Any advice on demo technique/tools appreciated.
If it was installed in 55 or shortly thereafter the adhesive (if present) is likely dried up and brittle. The molding is likely gutta-percha (dried and brittle after decades) or a sort of paper-mache.
my approach..
Just guessing from a picture I'd grab my estwing flatbar [the one with the fishtail end] and a framing hammer.
I'd pound the fishtail between the wall and the trim in a few places prying around in exploratory surgery, see how it went and proceed from there.
I wouldn't expect to be pretty but you never know until you try.