Wainscotting: Bullnose corners,No Casing
Hi All-
I’ve got a customer with bullnose corners (no door casing) and we’re working up a wainscotting plan. It’s a girl’s room w/ oak floors and natural finish alder doors. We’ll be using painted beadboard over new clear finish alder base. The cap rail will be rabbeted and applied over the beadboard flat and will be painted off the shelf casing.
Question: Has anyone dealt with a similar situation and come up with a pleasing stop detail at uncased doors?
Replies
How about bringing the rabbeted cap down the edge by the door? It would match the cap (obviously) and you're gonna have to cover the end of the wainscoting anyway.
I'm not exactly sure what you mean with the bullnose corners by the doors but i'd just try to make as smooth a transition as possible.
Hey MSA1
Instead of a J-metal stop where the drywall meets perpendicularly the wood jamb, bullnose corner bead was used to roll into the jamb creating the reveal at the drywall/jamb interface. Doesn't look bad but in addition, there are two bullnose outside corners to deal with as well. I am thinking of using a cove bit to mill solid outside corners and then butt the beadboard and then lap 1/4x5/8" screen molding over the beadboard edge. Then, at the doors I could use a simple rectangular or square stop (lower in profile than the cap) and then use the screen molding to add a little bit of interest to an awkward spot.
i agree that making solid pieces for the outside corners would be the way to go...not sure what u mean by 'screen molding'...if u buty the bead board up to the solid corner piece, i would just caulk the tiny joint where they butt together (assuming the corner piece will be white like the bead board..), or if possible put the corner piece on after you install the bead board, so it overlaps the ends of each board at the corner...
i assume there's not enough room to return the whole scheme into the door?
i think you're on the right track tho...
At out local yard screen mold is 1/4x5/8" clear strip with eased corners that's used to batten screening in place when the screen is pulled across a frame to screen a porch. I've used it before with beadboard where we retroed the beadboard into a situation with existing base and case. The strip made for an unobtrusive perimeter trim that went well with the beading. My thinking on the solid corners is to run them up flush with the top of the cap and butt the cap to the corner too, that way I don't have to miter across the bullnose with a small piece of cap, or alternatively have a beefy caulk joint if I cut a simple miter. If I nailed the corner over the beadboard I'd end up with a big caulk joint behind it,(if I run it all the way up) or if I miter the cap around above it, the solid corner would end up out of synch with the cap.