In going over my plans for my house to be built the guy doing the plans suggested a way to save a nickel. Since I wanted a full walkout basement and the slope of my lot supports it perfectly why not just frame the back basment wall with 3x6s instead of pouring it like the other four sides? Is this a common thing? ANything to be concerned about here? Are 2x6s enough support for a 2100 sq ft ranch?
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I've never seen it, but that doesn't prove anything. How much do you save with a framed wall, after sheetrock, sheathing, insulation, and siding? (Of course you're probably going to want to insulate the concrete walls, too, so I guess the insulation is a wash.) If the difference is small, just the simplicity of keeping all the basement walls the same might argue against the one frame wall.
Strength is not a problem. People have been building two story houses with 2x4 framing on the lower floor for well over 100 years now.
I can't remember the last time I saw a new construction of a full walk-out where the back wall was was poured. They are all framed.
Regards,
Dennis
RE: strength, when you backfill against the two side walls, they do not have as much strength to resist lateral forces of the soil and frost exerted on them unless you turn the corner to make a butress flank as prt of the fourth wall. IMO, you are less likely to have leaks that way too.
RE: cost, i tend to doubt there will be much difference, all depending on the level of finish reqd for either.
RE: plans guy - how far you go in taking his advice should depend a LOT on what his background and experience is. If just a draftsman, forget anythig he says on cost and possibly on strnegth.
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Like DJJ, I've never seen a walkout with a poured wall in the walkout area. Seems to me that having framed walls is much more desirable.
I se it probably 50/50%
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I don't think I've come across a walk-out that wasn't framed for 5 or 6 years..... in Massachusetts anyway.
I'd say that as long as it's built properly, he's fine with either. Personally, I prefer a framed walkout as I like siding better than concrete.
I'm not arguing in favour or against, just reporting that in my experience, I do see both. Personally, I would prefer the framed, but it all depends on the terrain slopes and planned landscaping.
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Me too. I was just sharing my experience and preference. :)
Mostly framed [2x6] walls here,too. Seems they would be better suited if windows are involved.
I didn't do it....the buck does NOT stop here.
ANything to be concerned about here? Depends on the soil engineer.
SamT
It's done here all the time, usually with 2X4s, although I like to frame with 2X6s.
One possible concern is whether your walkout basement will count as living space. I don't know where you live, or what the codes are there, or if you intend to finish the basement anyway. In CT, if more than half the area of a basement's walls are above grade, it counts as a floor of the house. That can have tax ramifications. And, if you were building a two story house, such a basement would count as a third story, which would get you out of the 1 and 2 story dwelling code. The issue here becomes fire protection. In CT, you'd have to install sprinklers or a one hour ceiling between floors.
Andy
Andy Engel
Senior editor, Fine Woodworking magazine
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Just because you decide on a walkout doesn't mean you don't need a foundation wall that goes below your frost line- in Mass. thats 4'-0, which would add some confusion to the excavation/ stepped concrete placement of ftg./foundation. I agree with Piffin about the backfill- corners are the strength. Our town now requires brace inspection prior to backfill because of a wall that broke during backfilling.
I just drafted an addition to go beside a ranch that has a walkout. The back of the (existing) house sits on the footing which only goes the foot of it's thickness below grade. It has heaved over the years and the plan is to trench, small sections at a time to 4'-0 below grade and pour concrete, reinforcing with re-bar, under the existing footing. Obviously, it's cheaper to do it right the first time.
Also, our code requires 8" min. concrete exposure @ base of wall.