I am now wearing a new hat…no longer structural engineer and DIY builder, but working as a carpenter with a crew of needy teens for a non-profit group. Most of the organization is following agricultural pursuits on this 5000 acre farm, and our crew will be performing ordinary farm carpentry tasks such as painting buildings, demolition, building new barns and animal shelters, fences, mobil poultry housing, feed troughs, sugar house, tools, cider press, motorized chicken plucker, underpinning foundations etc. etc. Sounds interesting eh? There is a huge infrastructure to maintain, and I should learn a lot right along with the kids.
One building we need to finish is stick framed on a slab, where the building/slab interface is up to 1-1/2″ in either direction. The bulding is earmarked for cedar claps, so there are places where wall drainage could land on the slab and run back into the building. There are 2′ overhangs 10′ up so it will take good winds to soak these walls. What is the best (most aesthetic) way to deal with this issue? My only two ideas are to at a beveled 2×2 water table around the bottom of the wall or to use a break metal z which would be very ugly. If the first option is used, the corner trim would also die into this water table. Thanks for the help. I’ll be coming with a lot of questions, my experience mostly lies with building from scratch.
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Not to derail the flow of your post but this will serve as a bump.
I notice the cider press in your listing and have to ask what type and size it is?
Your profile is empty. What state is the farm located in. 5000 acres is a hunk!
Cedar shingles look good with a swoop on the bottom and woven corners. It may be beyond the skill of your workforce but you could use the bent up mega z-flash and cover it with a swoop by stripping the bottom of the wall out 2" to cover the flashing and shingle up from there with decreasing furring strips for the first three rows to create your swoop. Weaving this detail in the corners is a bear at first but the inside corners are actually the hardest since in this situation you cannot use an inside 1"x1.25" cedar corner board but actually have to do a weave there to accommodate the swoop. The way you would approach this would be to assign one crew of your best carpenters to run all the weaves and have the #2 crew come back and fill between them. There are plenty of good articles on weaving cedar on FHB's archive as well as at the Cedar Associations website. I personally like using the 1" wide crown galv roof staples for this with the 1.25" legs but that's a matter of regional preference.
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ShelterNerd's swoop idea is good, but if that isn't possible, why not combine both of your ideas? Use z-flashing and then beveled watertable over that. Watertable will hide flashing and flashing will be extra insurance to divert water that gets past claps and watertable. I'd even be inclined to use water and ice shield under the metal z.
It wouldn't be too hard to cut the concrete.
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Sorry, I filled in my profile...I guess I had thought that was done a long time ago. As long as folks think the z-flashing and watertable will work that is the approach I am most comfortable with. Claps are necessary to match an adjacent structure.
I used Z here many years ago in a similar application. It worked great. What didn't was my running the siding almost down to the Z covered concrete. Needed more air to avoid rot. Cutting back the siding higher mostly fixed it, better late than never.PAHS works. Bury it.
Z metal and water table or I quite possibly would rip 24" long tapers from 1 1/2" to 0". Nail those to the bottom of the studs and lay claps on the ripped tapers.
I 2nd Piffin. A chipping hammer would solve all the extra labor. If the chipping gets too bad, you can float a cementous finish over it to clean it up.
Wither way, i think you'll be way ahead on the labor.