I recently bought an 1880’s Providence, RI house that had some wood paneling in it. I am an idiot. good god am I an idiot. What was originally going to be remove the paneling and paint/patch the plaster has blossomed into a total kitchen renovation. Most of the plaster was a serious mess, partially from the one or two layers of paneling, partially from water damage. So its all gone now, bare down to the studs. Damn, what a mess! The good side of this is that the kitchen will now have new wiring and insulation.
This message board is great. I’ve spent a lot of time searching. It seems like this question has been asked a million times, so I think I’m close but unsure of some of the tradeoffs. My situation is similar to a recent post about insulation, http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages/?msg=53062.1. That post asked “I need to insulate a section of wall… studs are 3-3/4″, exterior sheathing is 3/4″ CDX with 30# felt and cedar shingles over.”
Instead of the CDX, felt, and shinges, I have 12″ planks for the sheathing, with clapboards and vinyl. It slows down the wind and is dry but certainly no aspect of air or vapor barrier. There are two external walls, one is 9’x6′ with one window and the other is 9’x15′ with 2 windows. I attached a couple pictures. So not a lot of space to insulate. Based on the replies to the previous question I’m planning on installing 3 layers of 1″ Performguard EPS which would be foamed in place(fomofoam sounds good are there others at the DIY level?). This will leave a ~3/4″ air space before the blueboard/plaster is installed.
My questions are am I on the right track? Would it be beneficial to have the last layer of EPS with a foil front to reflect across the air gap with the warm blue board? This would also serve as the vapor barrier, right?
Or since the sheathing is very air leaky would it be better to seal the sheathing with a thin layer of foam? This would move the vapor barrier to the outside of the stud wall. Then use unfaced EPS boards also foamed in place. This seems like it could start condensing water in the EPS.
While the ceiling is open I am thinking of adding some insulation between floors. Partially to block sound transmission by filling air gaps. I figure a thin layer of the foam should do this job quite well.
eric
Replies
"Based on the replies to the previous question I'm planning on installing 3 layers of 1" Performguard EPS which would be foamed in place(fomofoam sounds good are there others at the DIY level?). This will leave a ~3/4" air space before the blueboard/plaster is installed."
If you are going to do that much foaming, I would suggest investing in a foam gun.
"My questions are am I on the right track? Would it be beneficial to have the last layer of EPS with a foil front to reflect across the air gap with the warm blue board? This would also serve as the vapor barrier, right? "
IMHO, the foil does not do much, and you will not need an additional vapor barrier.
"Or since the sheathing is very air leaky would it be better to seal the sheathing with a thin layer of foam? This would move the vapor barrier to the outside of the stud wall. Then use unfaced EPS boards also foamed in place. This seems like it could start condensing water in the EPS."
Foamed in place, the monolythic layers of foam board becomes the air and vapor barrier. No need to treat the surface of the sheathing. If no warm moist air is entering the wall cavity in the first place, there will be no condensation.
Thanks for the response
>If you are going to do that much foaming, I would suggest investing in a foam gun.
definitely, I expect much foaming in my future.
>Foamed in place, the monolythic layers of foam board becomes the air and vapor barrier. No need to treat the surface of the sheathing. If no warm moist air is entering the wall cavity in the first place, there will be no condensation.
Yes, but I guess I was wondering more if it would be more effective (or harder to screw up) if I sealed at the sheathing or if i sealed at the front of the boards. The more I look at it I think either way will be ok, and sealing the front of the boards will be a lot less foam.
I have found that R-control has their Northeast distributor 10mi from me and I guess they get the EPS foam in giant pieces and will cut whatever size I want with little charge. So I should be able to fill each stud bay with just a single piece of ~3 3/4" foam.
eric