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Can anyone help me on this problem,Iam removing a load bearing wall that is between the living room and family room.The wall is 15feet in length,I will be using 4- 1/34X14inch LVL’s as a header.The house is of modular design.There is a beam that consists of 4-2X10 that are bolted together and have brackedts from which the joists hang from.I will be installing the LVL header under the beam because the header that exists can not be removed.There is a 4inch post about 18 inches away from were the beam will rest on,so Iam asking if I need to install a second 4inch steel column right under where the LVL’s stand.I was told that a steel plate right under the existing column will be enough support.Any feedback will be be greatly appreciated.THanks….Ray.
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Ray - you ask, we tell, you do something that doesn't work, or get hurt in the process...nobody wins. You would be better served by hiring a strucural engineer who can look at the job. In fact, the very fact that you ask like this tells me that you should hire a professional to do the work too. - jb
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Jim,thanks for the info,I did go and see a structural engineer and he gave me plans on how to get the job done,but there was some misunderstanding on how long the LVL beam was going to be.He did the plans based on 14 feet instead of 15 feet,also I spoke with about 8 contractors and all but one ever got back to me.The only one that was willing to do it was charging me $7,000.00 dollars for the work.Now this is me taking off all the sheet rock and re-routing electrical outlets and one thermostat.I could not afford this price especially when the price for LVL's run from $6.00 and $9.00 for the 14inch header.I think he knew how much I wanted this wall taken down.This is why I was asking the info from before...Thanks......Ray.
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Even if it took him a week(not likely), it comes out to $1000 a day.Is he a neuro-surgeon too?
I did a simmilar job in my home by myself.It was only an 8' span, however.I carefully planned out every procedure before doing anything.It worked out nice and I didn't have any problems but you have to be carefull with suppoting structures.You can cause damage and get hurt.I agree with Jim that some jobs are best left to pros.
Is there any way you can post a sketch or picture of the problem and the proposed solution.?
Gaby
*definitely seek professional help. but the 7,000 dollar man probably isn't the one. just to further confuse you, why not temporarly support the 2 floors above and stuff the new beam up into the floor system so it only hangs down in the room a small amount. you know cut all the joists shorter and rehang with joist hangers. and don't forget to take the load down to the foundation or to a new footer. and make that continuous with the proper sized support. finish it out, maybe install some crown. make both rooms look good. course, a sketch would help but if you're like me, you wouldn't know how to do it on a computor. cause what i just described is what i think you mean but to be honest, i have no stinking idea. so i guess, what i don't know can't really tell me if 7,000 is too much. beats the shit outta me. and i'm not making fun either,....gabby
*Hey, I'm with Calvin.......why can't this go up into the floor system. A 15' beam hanging down 14" into your living space only leaves about 6'8" clear if you trim it out and you have 8' cl'g ht. to begin with.Shore both floor system on either side of the beam, Shore whatever is above the beam, cut those suckers out of there, slip in the LVLs resupport the joists with hangers to the side and VOILA !On second thought $7000 might be just right, but we're not there and I doubt that we're getting the whole picture, ........can't you take these posts and go back to your Engineer, or ask Gabby how to put your construction section up on the site.Depending on the Specs, your contractor may be right on the money, or way out in left field.
*Hi RayI sketched up what I think is the situation here (I've got way to much time on my hands...man! I need a life).I'm only guessing so I could be way off. What Calvin and Mike suggested is exactly what I did (if I'm assuming things correctly).Anyway, take a look and get back to us.Gaby
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HI Gaby,you are on right on the money,this is exactly what I have in the cealing.Excecept I have 4-2X10's instead of 3 I like your diagram (Good Diagram).The reason for the heavy beam is because the modular has to be made strong for shipping.The same type of beam runs down the middle of the house.Iam going to shore up the basement livingroom/family room and the upstairs.Iam able to do half the beam at a time because the way the house was put together one module at a time and each bearing wall has its own 2X4 wall.Again guys thanks for all your help,Gaby your right I tried to make a drawing using powerpoint but did not succeed.Thanks again...Ray.
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Ray, I must stress this point. Regardless of the replies you get at this forum, take these suggestions to a proffesional in your area and discuss matters with him/her before you decide to do anything. We can make suggestions here, but that's all they are without seeing the actual situation.Take care
Gaby
*ray, get professional help that's insured and reputable, and make sure you don't compromise that module! remember it used to be 2 pcs. going down the road. it's put together where you are trying to take it apart. don't say we didn't tell you. good luck
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GABY,CALVIN,Thanks guys for your input,the header thats in place will have to stay(4-2x10's),the 14"X15' foot header will have to installed under the existing one and braced together,so only the 2X4's will be removed.I noticed that your shoring walls use 2 2X4 plates on top,Ive only seen one installed.Iam going to call back the engineer to see if he recomends a second 4" steel column thats about 18" from the other.Thanks again...Ray..
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At the risk of being labeled a goofball,I have a question.If there is a bearing beam (4 2x10s)in the second floor already, is there really a need for the micro-lam below?You may be able to replace the wall with a few columns with solid bearing to the beam below. Then maybe you could throw a couple of arches between them.
Like everyone else said check this with a qualified engineer!
jim p.s. this will only work if your first and second floor bearing beams are right above each other.
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Gaby/Calvin,Thanks for the input,I will not be removing the above header(4-2X10's)because these are bolted together.Only the 2X4'S will be removed.Iam installing the 14"X15' header that the engineer told me to use.Iam also going to ask if a seperate 4" steel column has to be istallalled 18"from the existing one(which is where the trimmers will fall under.Thanks again for your info..Ray.
*JIM,The beams run right under each other the length of the house and in the basement 4" steel beams run every 80".Also the house is supported by 4-2X10's.....Ray.....
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Ray here are a couple of crude drawings of what I meant.They should work if the little women approves, and may make the remodel a little easier.You may be able to eliminate the arches if you don't need to add any bearing headers between the columns.If you need headers, chances are they will be smaller than the 14incher you were thinking of,and you'll be able to hide them in the arches.
Good luck, Jim
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Can anyone help me on this problem,Iam removing a load bearing wall that is between the living room and family room.The wall is 15feet in length,I will be using 4- 1/34X14inch LVL's as a header.The house is of modular design.There is a beam that consists of 4-2X10 that are bolted together and have brackedts from which the joists hang from.I will be installing the LVL header under the beam because the header that exists can not be removed.There is a 4inch post about 18 inches away from were the beam will rest on,so Iam asking if I need to install a second 4inch steel column right under where the LVL's stand.I was told that a steel plate right under the existing column will be enough support.Any feedback will be be greatly appreciated.THanks....Ray.