Warmly yours Heated tile Mats in Shower
Cooper
| Posted in Construction Techniques on
I’m currently working on a masterbath project where the client wants to heat the entire tiled floor, including into the large shower (6′ x 6′). I have a couple questions that I hope you guys might know the answer to:
1. Since I’m using multiply mats, the manufacturer mentioned 240volts, does that mean I need to run 3-wire? (i.e. dedicated double 20 amp circuit with 12-3 to thermostat)?
2. I’m going to use the two step method on the majority of the floor, but in the poured shower floor, I’m assuming I should do a three step: 1. Slope the shower base with michigan mud; install the wire mesh and imbed it with selfleveling floor leveler; install mosaic tile with latex modified thinset.
Does that sound correct?
Thanks for all input!
Coop
Replies
Re the 240V circuit, you need to see what the manufacturer specs. It would be either a 2-wire/with ground or 3-wire/with ground circuit, depending on mfgr specs. In either case, though, you'd have the identical 2-pole 240V breaker.
If the manufacturer is just suggesting that 120V mats be wired together in a 240V configuration, you need the 3-wire setup.
Whoa nellie! Not 240 volts.
Try 24 volts!
Apprarently the mats come in 120v up to 120 sq. ft. and 240v over that:
www.houseneeds.com/Shop/manuals/<!----><!---->warmlyyours_ampcapacities.pdf
What the hell does that mean as far as the power line is concerned? 12-3 wire froma double 20amp breaker?
I should have been more specific. I was referring to the shower. 24 volts in the shower. You'll need a transformer for that, which is a few hundred kwon.
Wow! I'm glad I bid the installation time and materials!
the bathroom all has to be GFI breakered, that probably means a 15 amp 120 v, so might as well feed the floor from that, just check the load of the heat and other bathroom stuff. 2 mats = 2 thermostats & sensors, I'd do just one ..
Skip the self leveling in the shower, you want it to slope to the drain.
Normally the thermostat for the heated floors is a GFCI thermostat, so he may run into a problem with two GFCIs in paralell
works fine, wish you had the option of non-gfi'd thermostat, but then it would probably be more expensive :{
"the bathroom all has to be GFI breakered, that probably means a 15 amp 120 v, so might as well feed the floor from that,"That is not true, at least not where the NEC is used.Only receptacles needs to be GFCI protected. And they require 20 amp circuits.AND OTHER EQUIPMENT THAT SPECIFICALLY REQUIRES GFCI PROTECTION. You need to read the manufactures specific requirements. IIRC there was an other question a while back that required both GFCI protected circuit and a GFCI thermostat.And it only needs be protected. For 15 & 20 amp/120 circuits you can use dead front GFCI's or breakers. For 240 v circuits you and get 2 pole GFCI breakers in a number of different sizes.
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William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
ya never know where the question is coming from ..
here pot lights etc in damp locations need to be GFId, and we can't use recepticles any more, has to be GFI breakers ..
Just for grins, in the shower, what type of membrane are you using?
Isn't the grout waterproof? <g>
Jon Blakemore RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA