*
I had a pocket-door made several months ago from lumber which is not quarter sawn. It has warped slightly, and now scrapes on frame. Contractor wants to “straiten”, and says the fix will be permanent (suggests he might even install rods of some sort if necessary). I’m thinking I should insist on better lumber. Please, any suggestions?
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
Learn about mechanical and automatic tools such as the taper, the compound tube, and the banjo to make your drywall job better and easier.
Featured Video
Highlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Replies
*
It seems to me that you have an inferior door or it was stored improperly before it made it your way. I strongly think that you should replace the panel completely. Straightening the panel will be much labor in vain. It would seem nearly impossible to keep someting that large and thin from twisting as it wants. The door was probably made from improperly dried lumber or stuff that picked up a good bit of moisture since it was built. Contact the manufacturer. Who built the door? The contractor or a supplier?
Twistedly,
Pete Draganic
*
carole
I agree with pete. replace the door because it's not likely any one can easily straighten a warped/twisted wood door. as with all doors though, make sure the new one is sealed well on all six sides for even drying and retention...
most fixes for crooked doors are temporary at best. but it may not be the door itself. check the framing and alignment of the pocket first.
Steve,
A door man in MI.
*
Related problem.
Off the shelf door is fine. But one side of the split jamb seems to have bowed (or maybe it went in bowed and no one noticed) just enough at the vertical center of the door, that the lip of the pull handle (1/16 proud of the door) catches the jamb.
It was installed with a removable head jamb so getting the door out of the way is no problem. Any suggestions on planing or otherwise taking the bow out of the jamb?
*
DSCOTT
most prefab door pockets are pretty flimsy affairs, with a 3/4" metal channel being the sole integrity of the jamb. Sounds to me like your pocket was either forced under a too low header or the header has settled causing the stress on and bowing of the split jamb. because of the metal in there, you can't really plane or cut that jamb.
Best fix I know(short of tearing it out and redoing the works) is to add a new jamb, preferably a piece of 5/4" straight ,stiff hardwood, to the existing,taking out the bow as you fasten the new in place. If there seems to be a lot of stress from overhead, go ahead and make a saw cut clear thru the bowed jam and make the new a tad short to allow room for that compression. 'course this kind of fix requires that the casing be moved in to accomodate the narrower opening and the jamb should be removable in case of any future need to remove the door again.
*The contractor built the door about 5 mos ago, and it was installed at that time- but not painted until last month. It worked well at the time of installation, and was then left open (inside the pocket). I think the warping took place slowly since the heat has been on, so perhaps the wood wasn't properly dried to begin with...?
*
I had a pocket-door made several months ago from lumber which is not quarter sawn. It has warped slightly, and now scrapes on frame. Contractor wants to "straiten", and says the fix will be permanent (suggests he might even install rods of some sort if necessary). I'm thinking I should insist on better lumber. Please, any suggestions?