All,
Forget to add to previous note. Using a sewage ejector package and need to run a 2″ waste line under a gravel driveway. Two questions:
1) How deep down do I need to go?
2) What material should I use? Schedule 80 or this ABS stuff?
Ted
All,
Forget to add to previous note. Using a sewage ejector package and need to run a 2″ waste line under a gravel driveway. Two questions:
1) How deep down do I need to go?
2) What material should I use? Schedule 80 or this ABS stuff?
Ted
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Replies
Run schedule 40 pvc, and get it down at least 18" below the driveway. Backfill the trench across the driveway with dense grade aggregate or sand, not spoil from the trench. That should withstand normal vehicular traffic, but if you have heaveier stuff crossing it, go deeper.
Another caution is to bed the waste line in grillage (gravel), not soil. It will not sink in soft spots or over dig areas of the trench, and thus maintain your set fall per foot of run.
Dave
To determine how deep to put waste lines water lines you need to know how deep is your frost line and then go one foot deeper. Unless you want to spend the winter with a steam generator thawing out the lines.
((need to run a 2" waste line under a gravel driveway))
What do you mean under? Down the full length of the drive or cross it @ 90°
If you meant the full length of the drive what is the chance you will pave it at some time. If paved what is the chance you will need to dig it up waste line under paving to fix it. It is better to put it next to the drive way not under it.
I have a 30' frost line here, and a shallow lateral field at 18".
I ask the health dept. about the possiblity of the lines freezing, and his response surprized me. (A) there should be no standing water in a waste line or a lateral line, and (B) waste water is mostly warmer than the surrounding earth. That is why you still get perc in the winter.
Good point about crossing or running the length of the driveway.
Dave
If you are crossing your driveway and your frost line is 30" not 30', I would put it at least 36", and put some foam insulation on top. If this is a pressure line from your pump, no fall is needed, just don't make a belly in the line. You didn't say if you were pumping to a sewer lateral or a drain field. Make a detailed map of your line, with measurments to the corners of your house, it will save much digging time in case of failure.
I run a wastewater treatment plant in Northern Lower Michigan, installs like this are common, only deeper.
Alan
Even in cold climates septic lines are generally not too deep. Leach fields can't be deep anyway to function. The heat from decomposition in the septic tank keeps the lines warm enough.
But, if a house is left vacant and the bacteria die down, lines can freeze, so care must be taken when reoccupying a vacated house in the winter.
On a pumped system you may not have the natural flow of heat, so I think burying the piping deep enough is wise.
Use an instrument of some kind to carefully grade the bed before laying the pipe so you get proper drainage.
Knowone has ask Fred where he is located or what the frost line is in his area.
Course the smart thing for him to do is ask his local health department.
The 2" line on an sewage ejection pump would be ok inside the house aroun here, but would have to go into a 3" DWV, and then a 4" soil pipe after it exited the house.
Could be a 2" line going to a curtin drain system for a washing machine/gray water field.
More information, would be better.
Dave
Frost goes deeper under a driveway than it does under lawn, because driveways are cleared of insulating snow cover. So you have to go deeper than the cataloged frost depth as a previous reply said.
I would not use ABS unless it was rated for pressure. Most ABS is drain line and is not pressure rated.
Sorry,
Clarification. Property is in Sonoma California. There really isn't a frost line. Rural location with a gravel "u" shaped driveway. I'll be cross about 20' of it at 90 degrees. No plans to pave in anyway.
Ted