I replaced a gas water heater for my brother last week and made a couple of observations.
First, it was leaking where the copper attached to the hot side of the water heater.
The copper was rusted and deteriorated and it had a small leak.
Interestingly, after I used a tubing cutter to cut the 3/4 copper pipe, I found that I was able to remove the copper fitting from the water heater by pulling on it.
The threads were gone !
They were eaten away from deterioration !
I didn’t need a wrench to remove the copper fitting from the water heater. He was lucky he didn’t have a major leak and flood the entire basement.
The second thing I noticed was my brother bought the new water heater at Lowes. It was a $300 Whirlpool 40 gallon natural gas water heater.
I did like the push button pilot light lighter, but I DID NOT like the part I call the “hood”.
This is the sheet metal part on top of the water heater which the flue pipe attaches to.
The reason I didn’t like it is because the hood did not “snap” into and secure into the top of the water heater.
There were some slots to position it, but it didn’t snap into place securely like they should.
I would buy something different next time.
^^^^^^
a Smith & Wesson beats four Aces
Replies
did you put in dielectric fittings on the new heater???
sounds like the old one didn't have any...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Yes, I did install them.I paid $10 - $12 for them.They are supposed to conserve energy, in addition to preventing deterioration of the metals.^^^^^^
a Smith & Wesson beats four Aces
are you referring to those plastic lined pipe nipples or the gasketed union???Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
I used plastic lined pipe nipples.^^^^^^
a Smith & Wesson beats four Aces
I think the two piece dielectric union is more better,,,,Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
You've got my attention IMERC. I was taught to always use dialectic unions. Or a complete separation of the two metals.
I like using flexible copper down to the heater for the next guy. I've heard that they are thinner copper and don't last as long as rigid copper. But that was from a plumber who didn't want home owners touching any plumbing.
I like the unions and flex...Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
WTB those braided flex lines intended for use on a WH would work great too...never have used then though...Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
When I took apart the old plumbing I was amazed to see the pipe threads were "disintegrated" on both pieces.There was nothing left. The threads just crumbled.If you can see rust and deterioration on the exterior of the fitting, I would assume that major deterioration has occurred underneath.Would you agree?^^^^^^
a Smith & Wesson beats four Aces
agreed...the likelyness that copper was fitted to iron is pretty good...
hence the gegregation of the fittings...Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Next question.I would like to secure the sheet metal hood piece to the top of the water heater.How can I do that? The new one did not snap into place like some do.If someone bumps the flue pipe it could pop out of position and wouldn't vent properly.^^^^^^
a Smith & Wesson beats four Aces
pop rivets or pan framers..Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
I've had the same problem with those hoods or whatever their called. It seems like their design is an afterthought.
Some hot water heaters have a hood with legs that you insert into a slot and twist it and it locks into place.Then you can attach the flue pipe to the hood and use a sheetmetal screw to secure it.Then you can use sheetmetal screws to secure each joint of the flue pipe and the 90 degree fittings or whatever you need.The one I installed had a ninety degree angle attaching to the flue pipe and it kept wanting to lift off or raise up.^^^^^^
a Smith & Wesson beats four Aces
thanks to everyone for their advice and suggestions^^^^^^
a Smith & Wesson beats four Aces