I had to move a water heater and now the pigtail is too short by a foot. I need 7′, the longest the hardware had was 6′ so the only thing left was to make one. I got a funky plug that can be 30 or 50 amp depending on which prongs you insert. Got 8′ of 10 ga braided cable with black, white and green wires. The water heater itself has a red and black wire as well as a green ground.
I read the instructions, printed in 6 pt italic to the point that what seemed like an easy job now has me confused. I think it should be black to one prong, white to the other and green to the L shaped, center top one. Am I on track here?
Replies
240v, 30A receptacle / plug
The L shaped is the ground, black and white go to whichever flat prong you like (makes no difference.
#10 wire - yer' doin' good.
I must not get out much - never seen a HWH with a plug-in connection......
Jim
>> I must not get out much - never seen a HWH with a plug-in connection...... <<
Me neither.
I think sometimes it's used as a disconnect -- cheaper than a lever box, I suppose.
As I stood before the gates I realized that I never want to be as certain about anything as were the people who built this place. --Rabbi Sheila Peltz, on her visit to Auschwitz
Do WH's up your way have to have a disconnect? Usually the ones I see that are hardwired are just clamped into a box. Don't think I've ever seen a disconnect on one.
I believe that current code requires a disconnect within sight of the unit. In many cases this can simply be the breaker, if the breaker panel is in the same utility room.
As I stood before the gates I realized that I never want to be as certain about anything as were the people who built this place. --Rabbi Sheila Peltz, on her visit to Auschwitz
Can't you just use a 240v 30a double pole switch? It's what I did about 10 years ago.
The switch is not rated as a disconnect, but then how often do you use it?
Webby
Edited 10/20/2009 9:15 pm ET by webby
In this case it is but it's only a coincidence.
Cord and plug connecting a water heater is a 110.3(B) violation (not how the manufacturer says you should install it) but it is up to your AHJ whether they will accept it.
Does 2008 NEC now require a disconnect for a HWH?
Here, outdoor A/C or heat pump units require a disconnect (pull-out type most common, levers are rare).
Around here, almost everybody has a basement with the HWH and the SEP located there. Slab or crawlspace construction is the exception rather than the rule, those configurations generally have a utility room with SEP, HWH and furnace / boiler located there.
The HWHs are always just hardwired. If a disconnect is required are our "normal configuration" installations (same room, in sight) counting the breaker as the disconnect?
Never heard of a disconnect requirement other than the breaker for HWH. What about a stove / oven / cooktop? Not same room, or in sight. Never seen one there either.....
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
Edited 10/21/2009 7:35 am ET by JTC1
Yes water heaters require a disconnect and they have virtually forever
It has just been ignored in a lot of places422.31(B) Appliances Rated over 300 Volt-Amperes or 1/8 Horsepower. For permanently connected appliances rated over 300 volt-amperes or 1/8 hp, the branch-circuit switch or circuit breaker shall be permitted to serve as the disconnecting means where the switch or circuit breaker is within sight from the appliance or is capable of being locked in the open position. The provision for locking or adding a lock to the disconnecting means shall be installed on or at the switch or circuit breaker used as the disconnecting means and shall remain in place with or without the lock installed.Handbook commentary
Section 422.31(B) requires a special locking device for service and maintenance personnel. A device that is attached to the circuit breaker handle by a set screw is not an acceptable means to serve as a safe method of locking the device in the off position. The device must have provisions for placement of a lock on it to secure the device in the off position. The lock-out device must be part of the disconnect assembly and must remain in place after the padlock is removed, whether it is a fused disconnect switch, a single circuit breaker, or a circuit breaker in a panelboard. See 422.33(B) for electric ranges.
>>the branch-circuit switch or circuit breaker shall be permitted to serve as the disconnecting means where the switch or circuit breaker is within sight from the appliance......<<
That is our normal residential HWH situation and explains the lack of a separate disconnect. This is noted as a change in 2005 NEC, not sure what it was before then.
>>......or is capable of being locked in the open position.<<
This must fall into the "ignored" category as I have never seen a locking device (or a disconnect) associated with a range, cooktop or oven. Have only rarely seen range / cooktop / oven in sight of the breaker panel. Have seen many cord connected ranges with plug accessible via removal of a drawer (legal by 422.33 B).
Or, perhaps the wall oven and cooktops, without disconnects except the breaker, I have seen are covered under 422.16 (B)(3):
(3) Wall-Mounted Ovens and Counter-Mounted Cooking Units.
Wall-mounted ovens and counter-mounted cooking units complete with provisions for mounting and making electrical connections shall be permitted to be permanently connected or, only for ease in servicing or for installation, cord and plug connected.
Or maybe under 422.34 Unit Switch(es) as Disconnect Means.
Since HWH does not have a plug connection or a unit switch, it would appear that unless the breaker is "lockable" or in sight - disconnect is required from NEC 2005.
Next time I see the Middle Department guys ....... I'm keeping quiet.
Thanks,
JimNever underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
Interesting. I was the safety and health officer at a 9000 person industrial facility and we were cited by OSHA for (I think) having a welding machine that was not hard wired, it came with a plug.we contested the citation, and had a meeting at OSHA's regional office and they vacated the citation, based on industry practices. we found many things not hard wired- garage door openers, welding machines, water coolers, fans mounted on walls, and a whole bunch more.As A homeowner I wish water heaters (electric ones) were more size standardized and connected by plugs and the water side by hoses or quick connects. I think boxes and hard pipe are cheaper than quick connects and plugs thats why plumbers and electricians use them, also keeps DIY people at bay.. it would then be real easy to change an electric heater
Edited 10/21/2009 7:28 pm ET by edwardh1
Thanks, that's what I thought but 20 minutes on the fine print with instructions for different voltages had my head spinning. All the water heaters here have plugs. I should say 'almost all" because I have run into a couple over the years. Next thing you'll tell me your AC compressor doesn't have a plug.....;-)