*
I need to install a new water service to my house. I am planning to use 1″ copper. I will be digging down to the prescribed 5 ft level (the main in my area is at 5 ft) and drilling through the block foundation for entry to the house. The actual connection will, of course, be done by the water department.
What is the correct way to seal the entry through the block so that it prevents ingress of water and insects? Is there a designation for the type of copper required for this job? Is it necessary to provide some degree of protection for the copper, or is it relatively unaffected by small stones and such in the trench? Is there any benefit in sleeving the line with a material such as 1 1/2″ poly tubing? Thanks
Nick
Replies
*
Nick,
I am assuming you are using copper because it is required in your area. There are other products available for water service lines that cost much less. If you are not required to use copper you should give these alternatives consideration. Check with your water supplier, plumbing supply house or code official. They will know what is approved in your area.
Copper tubing comes in three grades, "M," "L," and "K." For underground service use "K." It is the heaviest and will last the longest. It may be required in your area. Even if it is not required I would use it. Considering the cost of your 5' deep trench and any fees to your water supplier for the new tap it is cheap insurance. I would sleeve the tubing where it comes through the foundation. I like "Rubatex," (sp?)a foam rubber product about 1/2" thick for this. Small stones in the backfill should not be a problem. If you are concerned, use Rudatex or lay the line on a bed of sand and backfill the first 6" or so with more sand. Uses a 1" ball valve for your cut off (in the basement). Make sure you get a valve that is 1" all the way through. Some valves are sized for 1" tubing but have a 3/4" hole in the valve. A full sized valve will be a little more but it will ensure that you get the full benefits of your 1" line. Keep the hole through your basement wall as small as possible. Assuming your basement's exterior walls are covered with an asphalt emulsion you can seal the entry with asphalt roofing cement. Your plumbing supply house may have a product for this purpose.
Steve
*Nick:5 ft deep! What part of Canada are you in?
*
Thanks much for the detailed comments, Steve. I made a copy of your suggestions and will move forward, shovel in hand. I only need to go about 40 ft so its not too bad, but I won't start until the heat here begins to wane. Another month's wait should make the job easier. The hardest part of the job won't be the digging itself. There is a lot of gravel backfill in the area adjacent to the location where I will enter the house. I will have to shore up the location as I dig, or it will continue to fill with gravel slumping from the surrounding work area.
Hey Matt,
I live in cleveland, Oh. I called the engineering department and they told me code was 42-48", but when I called the water company, they said that the city was wrong, that the main is at 5 ft. and they will not connect the line if it is not set at 5 ft. Oh well. Seems like the city should have been well informed about the correct depth.
*
Do they mean 5 ft the whole way, or 5 ft at the main? I have seen plenty installed that sloped down at the end for the connection. What if their pipe were at 8 feet deep or 10 feet deep?
-Rob
*Nick:Steve's advice is right on, and I couldn't add anything, except to consider putting the main in at 1 1/2". In plumbing, bigger is always better, and size does matter. I would have the main at 1 1/2", and throttle it down to about 1" inside the home and 3/4" as it enters the water heater.
*You might want to consider renting a trencher or a Ditch Witch. A big city like Cleveland should have plenty of rental places. Here they are about 125$ per day. Sometimes there are guys who will come out and trench it for you for 100 bucks or so. There will still be some hand work, but digging 40 ft at 5ft deep is a lot of digging. Make sure you call and have it checked for underground wires and pipes, and you might want to check the depth again, five feet is awful deep.
*Hey Nick,Charles is right. Rent a Ditch Witch. I live near Steubenville, Ohio and we got them here at a rental place. I had to dig a trench that was 3ft. deep and 125 feet long. Used the kind you walk behind. They make a model that you can ride but its not really necessary; the walking kind will easily do your job. The machine looks like a large chainsaw (or stump grinder) on wheels. It is really easy to operate. I rented mine for 4 hours at $75. It would have been around $125 for all day. Guess what? The most time I had was in transporting the thing & loading/unloading it to the job site. Actual digging time for this job I mentioned took me less than an hour. This machine beats digging by hand anytime. I should know.....prior to this job , I had dug a 4ft. deep footer for that was 120 lin ft. long for a new 2 car garage. Sore arms and aching back. I'll never do that again!Save your body, rent a Ditch Witch.Davo
*Please, rent a backhoe! I can feel my herniated discs protesting just reading your post. A small backhoe will go for $125-175 USD per day and you'll be done in a half-day. Or, sub it out. In New England the rate is around $3-5 USD per foot.I'd consider sleeving the entire copper pipe in sch 40. the cost would be insignificant to the damage one rock could do.Patch the house entry with hydraulic cement.
*
I'm surprised nobody mentioned to call MissDig to locate any other utilities that might be in the vicinity of your proposed ditch. Here in MI, if they locate it wrong and you break it, it's their fault. But if you don't check and then break it, guess who pays.
*
Nick. Youv'e gotta be young to even think about digging 40' by hand. I agree with Mongo on the sleeving suggestion, ABS used for DWV should work fine also. Best of luck. HV.
*
I just got a chance to look at the recent posts on my question. Thanks to all. I guess I should listen to the consensus of opinion, and rent a ditch witch or backhoe. I have hand dug other trenches, some which were very long, but never this deep. Besides, the area I will be digging in is compacted clay which has been baking in the sun for a few years now. I guess once the job is over I tend to forget the previous pain. And by the way, I probably am no longer considered to be young at 45 yrs old, but perhaps still qualify as foolish. Just needed a little encouragement to break an old habit!
Also, I have decided to follow up on the issue of depth with the water dept. and to see whether it is really necessary to go 5 ft. all the way. Just haven't had the time to make the call yet.
Again, thanks for the gentle persuasion.
*
I need to install a new water service to my house. I am planning to use 1" copper. I will be digging down to the prescribed 5 ft level (the main in my area is at 5 ft) and drilling through the block foundation for entry to the house. The actual connection will, of course, be done by the water department.
What is the correct way to seal the entry through the block so that it prevents ingress of water and insects? Is there a designation for the type of copper required for this job? Is it necessary to provide some degree of protection for the copper, or is it relatively unaffected by small stones and such in the trench? Is there any benefit in sleeving the line with a material such as 1 1/2" poly tubing? Thanks
Nick