I’m looking to build a waterproof deck with paver, stone, or tile surface. I live in an area where temps can get < zero in winter and >100 in summer, so I am concerned about freeze cracking and expansion issues. It won’t be above living space, but I still don’t want it to leak.
I have seen paver pedestal systems and it may be one way to go, but I really like the look of pavers or bluestone with mortar joints. It also seems like railing installation is a potential complication with pedestal systems. I am also concerned about the structure required to support the weight.
Anyone know of a good reference for the construction techniques needed to build a deck like this. Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
Rhys.
Replies
Greetings Rhys, Welcome to Breaktime.
This post, in response to your question, will bump the thread through the 'recent discussion' listing again.
Perhaps it will catch someones attention that can help you with advice.
Cheers
'Nemo me impune lacesset'
No one will provoke me with impunity
Depends on supporting structure under pavers. You might try doing a google search for elevated deck waterproofing. WR Grace and I'm sure several others will have online specs and suitable products that will help you in material selction and installation.
Every waterproofing detail I've ever seen that has anything to do with an elevated deck has a drainage mat placed over the primary system. The pedestals you mentioned maintain some elevation between the membrane and the paver so that it does not wear a hole in the system do to foot traffic.
Regarding the posts. I'll assume that these are for some sort of railing?? Since this is typically at the leading edge of any deck, water ponding and subsequent leakage should not be an issue, so long as the was built with a slope to drain.
Best Regards
This is an alternative you might want to consider; I'm real happy with the result, and it's pretty easy to do ...
http://www.grailcoat.com/index.php?p=deck.htm
You lay down 3/4" ply, flash where necessary, staple down metal lath, and trowel this stuff on. It remains flexible and won't crack. You can get tint colors, but after my first experience, I recommend just painting it w/ exterior latex, which bonds great to this surface.
Bruce
Between the mountains and the desert ...
Bruce, thanks for the reply. This stuff looks really interesting. What kind of texturing experience do you have with the Grailcoat? Have you ever stamped it like concrete stamping?
I don't think stamping is a possibility. The surface is only going to be 1/8" or a bit more after two coats. Second, it goes on about the consistency of a finish coat of stucco but a little sticky, due to the acrylic polymer in it. When you do your texture coat, you have to keep a wet trowel, or some people even spray WD 40 on their trowel to keep it clean. You pretty much need to stick with the range of trowel finished textures you could get with stucco or drywall mud. Bruce
Between the mountains and the desert ...
I used a very similar decking system that Bruce is describing (http://www.lifedeck.com/). I used it for the entire roof surface and stairs of my garage to make a rooftop deck. So far it has been excellent (2 years). I live in San Diego though so no freezing.