Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Sep 01, 1999 06:18am | #1

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   JBM,

   What are the dimensions of the roof? I always use EPDM(not BUR or torch down) I get rolls of EPDM 20 ft. wide by 50 or 100ft long. Try to avoid having a seam under your deck, with 20 ft. rolls it shouldn't be hard(unless you've got one big deck). Even with no seams under the deck, it's still a good idea to screw the deck boards down, so the membrane can be easily accessed in the future.

   John

1. 
   Guest_ | Sep 01, 1999 03:23pm | #2

   *You might think about building the deck in sections and laying it down on top. What ever kind of roof it is it will eventully have provlems. but you do not have to rebuild the deck to fix it. Did one about 8 years ago on the harbor it is still looking good.

2. 
   JBM_ | Sep 02, 1999 02:38am | #3

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   JRS,
   The deck / roof is 42'X 16' with a 13' X 27' leg that intersects about midway forming a "T". The other problem is that there is a shed roof at the perim. of the deck from the lower level so we have to also design a good drainage system. How do you recommend sloping the roof to the various roof drains, while keeping it somewhat level for the decks walking surface?

3. 
   Guest_ | Sep 02, 1999 06:08am | #4

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   JBM, Does the flat roof drain around the perimeter? Or does it go to internal drains? I guess I'm not forming a clear picture of it.

   John

   p.s. When I suggested screwing the deck boards down, I of course meant to sleepers. Rick's idea of building them in sections is something I have seen successfully done.

4. 
   JBM_ | Sep 02, 1999 08:25pm | #5

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   Internal drains. At the perim. of deck there is a half-wall, the other side of half-wall is attic space formed by roof from lower floor.

5. 
   JBM_ | Sep 02, 1999 08:25pm | #6

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   Where should I go to gather info on replacing a roof-top deck. It is currently a flat wood frame structure. It is also "T" shaped. Replacing rotted sht'g is first step. After that gaco? , torch-down and cedar sleepers?
   Who Knows?