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Anybody got any good ideas on how to waterproof a plywood deck floor that is exposed to the elements, but has a finished ceiling below?? The decks in question are 6′ x 14′ second floor walkouts with a slight rake,
i cut into
the shed roof of the first floor wrap around porch. Nice architectural detail/bad design!!
The original (12-15 yr old) design was built with ply covered with indoor/outdoor carpet. One of the two failed over time and rot and carpenter ants ate into the ledger and stud wall framing below. A recent “fix” was attempted with PWF 5/8″ t&g ply, seemingly “floating” with silicone caulk at the seams. . . the caulk is already breaking down, probably because of UV or freeze thaw action, and the purposeful absence of fasteners has allowed the ply to cup and form hollows to hold rain/snow melt etc.
There isn’t enough height from deck surface to door sill to do a
i roof/sleepers/decking
type fix which would be ideal.
TIA
-pm
Replies
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Patrick M.
Feb99 issue of JLC has an article about fiberglassing decks above living areas that looked very interesting. Let me know how it comes out if you go this route.
JonC
*I have been using liquid applied elastomeric roof products from Snow Roof Systems http://www.snowroof.com/index.html for a number of years now. Included in their products is a deck coating (to be used in conjunction with the system). The products are not inexpensive. A complete application with polyesther reinforcing will cost about $1.25 per sq.ft. The application is easy, although care must be taken with the details. Ease of maintaince is a major plus, involving nothing more than rolling on another coat. I have done both "flat" roof and decks with this system and have not seen any evidence of deterioration over 8 years or so.
*I have a similar deck and used Hypsam, now called Quik Ply. Similar to an ice and water barrier but thick and tough like leather. Very easy one or two person install.
*BillSome more details please, product info, website???Will it stand up to some traffic, chairs etc??Thanx-pm
*JonThanx for the tip. . . I went there and read the article, quite appropriate. . . tried to copy it but they seem to have a way of circumventing that. . . have to go search through my i cacheI guess!!-pm
*MikeThanx for the link. . . I checked out their site, and emailed them for some more info and Canadian suppliers.-pm
*Patrick,I haven't read the JLC article on fiberglass yet, but that gets my vote. I've seen it used on many setback roofs here and on the Jersey shore. The stuff lasts and is relatively easy to apply and repair. It's the same material used on boats and really stands up to a marine environment. I agree with you by the way about the setback being a nice detail but a poor design...everytime I see one on a set of plans I cringe, but the fiberglass works better then anything else I've seen.RM
*Java-live pages don't let you highlight text properly. Select "Open Page in Composer" (Netscape) or "View Source" to get the text.
*Sorry, don't have a url for it. Company is in Ohio - will send a sample and all data. I'll look for address or telephone number. (I think I posted this once before.)It's tough and can be walked on and chaits too. I plan to build a modular deck that sits on it - but five years later its not done.My roofing supplier - very large contractor supply place - recommended it when I asked about epdm.In the end, epdm may have been better - don't know its pitfalls. But the Quik Ply works fine. I'd recommend avoiding a roof drain if its possible to scup it - that's where I've had problems.