I have a dozen flat panel closet doors in a 1962 house. They have mahogany skins and I believe they are finished with Shellac. (Finish dissolves with methyl hydrate and powders beautifully when sanded.) We washed the doors thoroughly with TSP, rinsed well, dried and sanded smooth. Before and after sanding, the doors had a waxy feel. We ignored this and applied a coat of Bullseye 123 latex primer and let them dry for a couple of days.
The primer did not stick, in fact it peels off like it was saran wrap. What to do?
I assume the waxy feel is coming from dissolved wax in the old shellac. Is there another possibility?
Help
Thanks
Jeff
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
The RealTruck AMP Research Bedsteps give you easy access to your truck-bed storage.
Featured Video
How to Install Exterior Window TrimHighlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Replies
Two things you can try.
1. Wipe off the door with mineral spirits, which quickly dissolves wax.
2. Give the doors a coat of dewaxed shellac.
Thanks, I've also learned that apparently a "buffed wax" finish was fairly popular and widely used in my area in the 60's. I clearly have to get rid of the wax and either mineral spirits or methyl hydrate sound like the solution.
Actually, if you really want to remove the wax, ammonia is better than alcohol ( methyl hydrate) or mineral spirits. I used to use a naptha wipe down, until I discovered ammonia.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"If you want something you've never had, do something you've never done"
Sphere,If he uses ammonia and the finish under the wax is shellac, he will end up stripping the shellac also. I don't think he wants that. Mineral spirits will strip the wax and won't affect the shellac.Bill
Not exactly. It won't 'strip' the shellac, it will prep it for further attack. We're not talking soaking in a tank, just a wipe down.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"If you want something you've never had, do something you've never done"
Spray , don't brush ( brushing will re-distribute the wax) a coat of Zinnsers Seal-Cote . I am guessing you probably are facing some silicone contamination as well as any residual wax.
Seal-Cote will isolate that as well, but again, spray it.
Option #2 a Misting of nito-cell lacquer with Fisheye eliminater added to the mix, for extreme silicone contamination.
Edit: Ooops..ferget option 2, that is for a clear coat..do the seal coat and follow with Oil based primer.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"If you want something you've never had, do something you've never done"
Edited 10/5/2007 7:12 am ET by Sphere
Thanks, I'd forgot about 'seal-coat' great idea.
Since he is painting why not use BIN instead of seal coat?.
.
A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
The pigment makes it a tad more difficult to spray. And again, brushing can stir up the wax into the mix. But you are right, it would work as well...
I often have a hard time remembering that a LOT of stuff gets painted, it has been about 10% at most of my exp. There fore I revert to thinking clear coat.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"If you want something you've never had, do something you've never done"
I've never seen a shellac that sands at all. It's gummy and even scraping it gums up the scraper. That is not shellac.
I think you should try an oil base primer.
I am quite sure you've got a lacquer stearate there which is a sanding sealer and contains animal and /or vegetable fat and you won't wash it off because that's what it is.
Mesic