I’ve inherited a Chicago-area project with poorly installed, seriously cheap vinyl replacement windows.
To no one’s surprise, water seeps into the building around the windows.
Despite their faults, it appears that the windows themselves are watertight. The aluminum trim and caulk joints around the window have failed. Plus the windows are installed so that the water exits the weep holes, dribbles down the face of the frame and down into the outside wall. Naturally, there is no membrane between the building the window frame.
For laughs, we put a moisture meter on the walls around the area with the most visible issues, the third floor, i.e., crumbling plaster, and found them quite damp, like the client’s tears.
I’ve removed the top layers of crumbling plaster, let the walls breathe for a couple of days and applied Durabond over the screen lath. After 48 hours there are still damp-looking spots.
Replacing the windows completely is out of my client’s budget. Our best bet seems to be reinstalling the outside trim correctly and using hardcore 25-year guaranteed caulk.
Two questions (so far):
1.) Is there a way to ventilate the wall to let the moisture out, e.g., drill ventilation holes around the wet spots, or do I have to replace the structure and replaster?
2.) Does anyone have experience with this corrective approach?
Thanks.
Neal
P.S. If the technology is cooperating, I’ve attached a photo.
Replies
what kinda siding?
any tar paper?
there is a way to ventilate ... a rain screen wall.
de-side ... paper ... rainscreen ... re-side ... retrim.
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
<<what kinda siding?>>
Vinyl.
I'm not sure about the layers underneath.
The hope is that if we stop the water from coming in, by re-sealing the windows, we can let the walls dry out, by ventilating the inside, without major reconstruction.
The rain screen wall looks like a good overall solution if we have to go the major reonstruction route.
Neal
How are the top of the windows flashed?
Chances are, they weren't done right. Remove a course of vinyl siding, properly flash the windows, and re-install the siding. The window heads can be flashed without removing the windows.
that should take care of 90% of the problem.
<<How are the top of the windows flashed?>>
As far as I can tell, they aren't flashed, that is, membrane between the window frame and cavity.
They do have white aluminum trim/"flashing" around the windows with caulk on the joints.
We believe we've identified the source of the leakage: the trim and the failed caulk. If we repair that and redirect the water away from the window opening, how can we dry out the walls without having to replace the studs and other internal structures?
Thanks.
Neal