I consider construction (in my case remodeling) a challenge to organize, a somewhat unreachable “moving target”.
Many of the materials are hard to store and make easily accessable. It seems like it’s always eventually a case of too much in too little space. It’s hard to keep up on the “draw” and “disguard” leftover parts build up.
Tools are a challenge to organize too – the “tool storage” method becomes almost as critical as the tool. If you can’t find that little “collet”, or accessory – it won’t work.
There are variables: different customers, unexpected situations, unexpected material needs, time crunches, drying problems, interruptions, weather, etc.
BUT…. I think there are some fundamentals to staying organized on the job. I think I know a few of them, but I’m sure I have missed a lot. I would like to hear some of the little (or beeg) “rules” you “run – by” to avoid losing tools, getting that little loose end done (without forgetting), not having to spend inordinate time “looking” for stuff, being on top of the “little stuff” so you can concentrate on the important – such as listening to the customer.
Yes, I’d like to steal your tricks on this. I would love to see a new approach. I’ve been wrestling with this for 40 years.
Thanks,
Fonzie
Replies
Fonzie.... I'm a newjack, but I like to think I'm fairly organized. Here's a few things we do to keep tools in line...
EVERYTHING goes in the truck or the trailer at the end of the day. EVERYTHING has a specific spot in either the truck or the trailer so when I walk through before locking up for the night I know right away if something is left out. It takes awhile to get the guys on board with this, but is worth doing. My trailer and truck are neat, clean and organized... not cuz I'm anal, but cuz when I need something I want to just go grab it, not look all over for it.
Between the truck and trailer I can pretty much have everything I need onsite at all times. That is a huge time saver. There's nothing worse than knowing that the tool you really need is at home in the garage while you're struggling through something you know you could do better and faster if you had just remembered to bring that thing along. Even worse is having to go buy something that you know you already own.... but just can't find.
There's also spots in the truck and trailer for every type of fastener and nail that we commonly use. At the end of the day I can take a quick look around and figure out what we need to order more of. I'm nuts about guys having more than one case of the same thing open at once. And they know it. I raise hell when I see two open cases of the same item.
When things break, they get brought immediately to my attention. I make a concerted effort not to freak out when something gets broken or just wears out as long as they bring it to my attention. If I go to grab a tool that I need and it's missing or busted..... I freak. My guys know that when something gets broken, it's fixed or replaced by the following Monday. That's my job and they know that it's they're job to let me know what's up so that I am able to do my part.
As far as keeping up on the little stuff.... never put of til tomorrow what you can do today. If it must be put off, make a note of it... preferably on the drawings. When I get in the truck to go home every night the first thing I do is pull out a plain old spiral bound notebook from my brief case. I record who worked and what hours, what we got done, what we lost time on, and any other notes from the day... like changes, punch list stuff, etc.
I'm also a big fan of sticky notes and the alarm on my watch. If I head to work at 6am and know that I need to make an important phone call at 9am.... I set the alarm on my watch cuz I know that by 9 am I'm going to have my head wrapped around whatever it is I'm doing and forget all about that phone call 'til I get back in the truck to go home.
That's just a few to chew on.
Dieselpig,
One thing we probably share is a hatred for "looking for something". It drives me nuts. I get a lot of use out of "blue tape" (the good stuff with the orange rim 3M) for notes i.e. on frame walls that need special blocking before covering up (usually sticking out on a screw). I can do a lot with blue tape (including "band-aid on a roll")- keep removed hardware together, etc.I also use a lot of freezer-type zip-lock bags - 1 and 2 gallon. I have parachute bags my wife made with zip lock bags of screws, with a tag made out of white rubber roof stapled on (with undulated staples). Bags of screws seldom spill, and they're expandable.
Gawd Im in love with you!!!!!! Will you marry me??? Of course, we'd have to keep this relationship just on the jobsite.
You sound very much like me, or how I strive to be. I HATE, HATE, having to look around for a tool, or not having the right tool on the job site. Also the same with fasteners, one box open at a time, AND WHEN YOU OPEN THE BACK UP BOX MAKE SURE THAT A REPLACEMENT BOX IS ORDERED!!!!! And if a tool is broken, do something about it......like fix it, or send it of to get fixed.
Of course I work for a company ( as opposed to being the owner as you are) so cant really lay down the organizational law and we do more in remodeling so we've got more miscellaneous junk ( errr, I mean equipment).
-m2akita
P.s. since its Sunday morning now, I suppose your out doing your weekly tool maintenance/ organization :=)
> WHEN YOU OPEN THE BACK UP BOX ....
I rip the label off the empty and stick it in my shirt pocket.
-- J.S.
Sounds like you know how to be more efficient, but might be too busy to refine some of your systems.
I'm a remodeller too, so using tools and materials from many trades forces me to stay organized, or I lose valuable time running to the store. I hate going to the store during the day, except for the morning or evening.
Simple things help. For example, I have a ready supply of all kinds of fasteners on hand. I replenish before I run out. When it's warm out, my adhesives are on hand as well. Same with sandpaper, chalk, wire, shims, scrap wood, thin veneer, shop towels, tape, spare blades and bits, spare light bulbs, ...
I have a compartmentalized box (fishing lure type) plastic storage box for odd hardware, and another for pex and CU fittings. I always buy the fittings I need for each job, but you know how it goes... why drive to the store for a a coupling if you've got a few in reserve.
Maintaining extension cords that have become intermittent saves time and frustration.
Everything in it's place, always: I can grab 98% of what I need within seconds of opening the van. Light things (table saw fence, hinge jigs, towels, first-aid, bulbs, safety glasses, gloves, masks...) are kept in compartmentalized Sonotubes that I fastened at the interface of ceiling and walls - access holes cut into the side so things never spill out.
All my squares and levels are stored under toggle keepers against a plywood sheet on the wall, left of the side door. Safe and sound, within instant reach.
I use a spiral notebook on the job, plus take digital pics (great for estimating or remembering site conditions). Each evening, I prepare a to-do list for the next day, incl. materials and supplies.
I'm looking for a way to deal with my air hoses and extension cords. Right now, I throw the coils on top of my platform, so they get moved around a lot. If I hung them up, I think they'd be in the way. Ideas?
I wish you would expand on the "compartmentalized sono tube" - I assume it runs parallel with the inside corner - plywood circles for dividers, screwed in? I haven't used sonotubes more than twice on the job - don't think in those terms. I'm having a problem right now with my squares and straight-edges. I think I know what you mean with the "toggle keepers" - those "toggle clamps" used in jigs?
This is a big issue with me lately. We do 99% interior trim on both new and old. We have recently added another carpenter and his sloppiness drives me nuts. I don't wan't to obsess to the point of losing lots of time cleaning and straightening, but being so unorganized makes you so much less productive. Okay, soapbox down, I am trying to find( or build ) some nice stacking trays to keep all our fasteners ready to grab but seperate. For adhesives, shims, bulbs, bisquits and all the other must-haves that seem to pile around the jobs, I want some sort of rolling cabinet similar to a 33gal garbage can on wheels. With construction adhesive, Phypon (sp?) adhesive, instant glues and accelerators... we seem to have to carry more glues and fasteners than ever to work with all the materials offered today.
The tools are fairly straightforward and go in the trucks at night . If we are on a very large jo, a deadbolt on an inswing, walk-in closet becomes the tool room to save some time picking up. You asked about stroage fundamentals?, large items first, like things together, and most used items near the door. This goes for whatever you are storing, wherever you are storing it.
I use plastic peanut butter jars for nails, screws, etc. Since they're clear, I can easily see what's in them and the supply is inexhaustable since I believe that PB is (or should be) one of the food groups. - lol. The PB jars are stored in plastic milk crates.
Brad,
You know the thing about it is little stuff can not only drive you nuts if you don't get on top of it (turn it over to a system), but it also costs us money, probably a lot more than we realize.Good luck on your "training", ha.
The Sonotubes are 8"-10" diameter. Partitions are plastic coreboard, the type used to make cheap signs. The ends of each tube are sealed with the coreboard, ductaped at the ends. Simple and strong enough for lightweight storage.
The 'tubes are kept in place by screwing them to the van's bodyframe channels, where the ceiling meets the walls. I first inserted a pre-drilled 1x2 strip of wood in the tube, through which the screws (#12) and washers are fastened. You can tighten the screws through the openings you cut for access. The partitions are notched tightly so that they register on the 1x2, and can be slid back and forth as your needs change. Though this system is not secure for heavy objects, it is stable and does not flop around or rattle.
The squares and levels are kept flat on the plywood wall, between horizontal slats of wood (screwed tight) that create secure recesses. Friction fit. Toggles are simple thumb-turns made of flat stock, secured with a screw/washer. For my best 4' level - kept in a poly case - I sized the recess to accept the case.
The 6' level tucks between the roof and the top of a sonotube bin; I keep it there with a simple wooden wedge wrapped in duct tape.
Thanks for the expansion on the sonotubes and toggle clamps. I need to do that for my squares and straightedges, levels. One of my "organizing fundamentals" is "the shortest pencil is better than the best memory". I use "drafting tape" on the back of my steel measuring tape for about the first 3 feet. I get several measurements on that stretch of tape. (Drafting tape will come off - masking tape won't)A lot of my "storage methods" seem to be "10 minute fixes"; for instance, the other day I figured out how to store paint roller covers: I drove gutter spikes, then looped a 16 inch piece of #12 insulated solid copper wire around the head, pulled the two wire strands out straight, slid the roller cover on, then bent the wire back on the roller cover. The problem is the ten minute fixes become looking at 10 year fixes.
I"'m looking for a way to deal with my air hoses and extension cords. Right now, I throw the coils on top of my platform, so they get moved around a lot. If I hung them up, I think they'd be in the way. Ideas?"
I keep mine hanging from short bungy cords. Luckily I have that tie down bar to tuck them behind, but it works well.
Edited 5/9/2005 9:19 pm ET by dustinf
Check out the velcro straps with carabiner clips at Home Depot. They are great for cords, hoses, etc.They come in large, med and small sizes, and I have found them to be invaluable in the trailer for such items.JT
you can also get 14 ga romex cutoffs for the same purpose, and they're free!Jason Pharez Construction
Framing & Exterior Remodeling
For cords and hoses, I tie a piece of sash cord to the line near the male end. The lines stay bundled for carrying between storage and use. The cord can also be used as a strain relief to tie them off so they don't get unplugged. Lines all get coiled over/under so they lie flat and don't tangle.
-- J.S.
I use an open pickup truck, so storing every little item isn't an option. I have numerous closed plastic tool boxes. Each box contains all the accessories for the tool in the box. For instance, I have a router box. The box carries a router, bits, wrenches, fences, template guides, plates. small clamps and so on. If I need the router on a job, I just grab the box. I have a drill box, circular saw box, sander boxes, drywall tools box, painters tools box, etc. I also have a couple of buckets with the stacker system for fasteners. They don't hold fifty pounds of spikes but they are handy for having a wide assortment on many types of fasteners. Everything is waterproof.
My most important tool is my spiral notebook. This has everything from directions and phone numbers to sketches and materials lists. I keep it close by and jot down a list for the next day or the trip to the lumber yard. It's easy to remember the saw but forget the extension cord. I take a few minutes at the end of each day to list everything I may need the next day. It's not very often I need all my boxes at one time. I'm pretty much a minimalist when it comes to carrying tools. I'm not one of those that lugs a big tool belt with every possible tool. I only carry a tape, pencil, utility knife and nails when needed.
The biggest storage problem I have is at the shop with short but useable cut offs. I'm trying to be hardnosed about 1/2 sheets of plywood or drywall and other such leftovers. If I have a bundle of shingles left or a few 2x's I don't bring them home anymore. They either get left for the homeowner or get tossed. I'm still not very good at this yet but when I look in my lumber racks and see stuff that has been there for 20 years, it's time to start thinking differently.
If I did small service type jobs, where I might hit several locations in a day, I think I would get a cube truck. Electricians and plumbers generally use these trucks because they need such a wide variety of stuff to do their work. The issue is to outfit them with bins and shelves and keep them neat.
There are always those special items that get forgotten. I just remembered that I'll need some special glue for some mitered returns tomorrow. If I don't write it down, I'll forget it.
Hammer,
I have somewhat used that method of "circular saw bucket", "drill bucket", etc. It works until it's too heavy (ha). Of course less is heavier now. I had forgot who had mentioned the spiral notebook. I mentioned in another post you reminded me of the advantage of that and I carried one around today. I filled one and had trouble making the transition to another (there was so much info in the other one). I have trouble throwing away the cut offs, strange hardware leftovers, etc. We can all look at the smallest board and think of a time we needed it. I'm also getting more selective about junk. It's much more enjoyable and relaxing when ahead of the "organization wave".
Someday our kids will find a box full of our old notebooks. They will be the story of our daily working lives but they probably won't be able to translate the hieroglyphics.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
I too hate looking for a tool or part, but am organized only in capability with remembering where something is---
Since this capability seems to be diminishing with age, the solution is to have at leat 10 or everytype item or more <G> --gotta have a stash for the GKs to inherit anyway.
Are you a one-man show?
I have found that for my one person remodeling and trim carpentry biz, that a van works much better for me than a truck (framers may "need" trucks, but IMO many trade workers just "want" trucks for image--even though a homely van would be more efficient). More tools can be organized in a van and are easier to get in and out. I only occasionally need to use the trailer.
I often set up for a new job (at a secure site) at the end of a day. Makes for a faster start the next day and if I'm missing a tool or materials the early set up jars my mind and I pick them up in the evening. Setting up the afternoon or evening before allows me more room for the last minute materials grab too. People are often impressed when you show up the day before the scheduled start too.
I keep most of my tools in their tool boxes, but all those loose little tools without tool boxes used to drive me nuts and there were too many of them for them to each get their own tote for the tool and accessories.
My solution has been a cart on wheels for my RO & belt sanders, portable planer, corded drill, jig saw, RA grinder, etc. The cart has a small work bench top on it, a drawer where I keep sandpaper dics and belts, extra blades--all the parts and accessories that go with those tools, at the ready. The cart handle doubles as extension cord storage. On most jobs I wheel the whole cart in (less trips back out the the van for that other tool or accessory).
I use a bunch of torx drive trim-head screws and cabinet screws that use T-10 and T-15 bits. I would often wear out a T-10 bit and "be screwed." Now I buy a bit with every box of GRK fasteners I purchase and I put the bit in the box of screws so I always have a spare when and where I need it.
If I empty a box of screws or nails or whatever--I toss the empty container on my van dashboard as a visual reminder and add to my list at the end of the day.
(framers may "need" trucks, but IMO many trade workers just "want" trucks for image--even though a homely van would be more efficient).
Now why'd you have to go and say that?
A service body truck is the perfect set up for my gig. Tool boxes on the sides for all the hand-held power tools like saws and guns and misc things like squares and hand tools. Full 8' bed for larger items like step ladders and wall brackets that don't mind being in the weather. Trailer carries the nails, cords and hoses, SCMS, chop saw, table saw, plate levels, microwave.... all the bulky stuff you don't want to see in the weather. And it's got huge ladder/lumber racks on top.
Tough to get a fuel transfer tank to pass inspection inside a van. Also tough to push snow with a van. Most of my jobs are a good 40 min from my home... that's alot of trailer time for any vehicle. Diesel gets real good mileage and doesn't even notice that it's hauling a trailer. I'll get 250,000 miles out of that motor.
Just depends on what you do is all. Why's everyone gotta pick on the framers. ;)
Next thing you know y'all will be saying we don't need such big hammers either. LOL. Besides, somebody's gotta be around to pull yer vans out of the mud!
Edited 5/8/2005 11:54 am ET by dieselpig
I remember seeing a pic of your truck/trailer rig sometime back -- and it was one of the slickest/most efficient set-ups I've seen.You ought to repost that photo -- maybe this time with some interior shots to show how you've got your stuff organized."I would never die for my beliefs because I might be wrong."
-- Bertrand Russell
Edited 5/8/2005 12:49 pm ET by nikkiwood
I was taking pics today at the site and thought of you and your post, so here's some pics of my truck/trailer set up....
It's a little messy right now as it's been parked onsite now for a couple months.
It's an even better set up than I remembered. That's a Stahl Challenger, right? Could I ask, what's the price difference of this rig vs. just buying the truck (without the Stahl package)?I'm curious too about what you use the bench grinder for. I can't remember ever seeing one included in a job site tool package. It is really helpful to see how others store/organize their stuff. There always seems to be some idea that you can steal/adapt for your own purposes -- like the simple rack you use for storing caulk tubes. In fact, I'm going to see if I can throw something together in the shop this afternoon. Thanks for the pics.********************************************************
"I would never die for my beliefs because I might be wrong."
-- Bertrand Russell
Thanks nikki... we're pretty happy with the set up... works for us anyway.
I'm kinda guessing here, but I think the service body added about 5K to the cost of the truck.... maybe I should say between 4 and 5K... that's probably safer. It does work pretty good for me, but I wouldn't buy that particular service body again. The latches can be quirky, the boxes are fairly small (but I do still have a 4x8 bed) and moisture gets into some of the compartments... I've had tools that sat for awhile in there and had a significant amount of rust on them. The daily dogs (framing guns and circ saws) don't sit still long enough to collect rust. Thankfully, the compartment that has all the hand tools (wrenches, vice-grips, screwdrivers, clamps etc) is super tight and seems to stay very dry. Come to think of it.... it's the two boxes behind the wheel wells that are the culprits. I wonder if tire spray has something to do with it?
Anyway, I'd probably look at the Knapheide or Reading bodies. Not quite as sexy looking, but probably more functional. If you really want a great service body truck, you should probably get a dually chasis... that pretty much doubles the useable space in the tool boxes. I didn't think I needed a dually, and still don't. I love the size of my truck and all in all am very happy with it. Glad I didn't go for the extra girth... it's hard enough to see around the trailer without those extra wheels.
Bench grinder doesn't see too much use but it's nice to have. The occasional chisel, hammer claw, cat's paw, or odd ball part can get ground down if need be. Sometimes I use the polisher wheel on my hammer if it's lookin' like it lost it's luster. ;)
I've had two Reading bodies and both served me well. The only problem I see with your setup, is you need a truck with a back seat. That way you can load all your guys up, go to the job, and no one leaves 'til you get ready.
My shingle sub drives a Suburban with the back loaded with his tools and his ladders on top. He loads his four helpers up in the AM and goes to the job. At lunch he leaves his 2nd in command in charge and gets everyone lunch (part of the deal - he buys everyday). They eat and then they all come home together. If you decide to quit during the day you better have your walking shoes on. It's nearly 7PM and they're still at it. Hey Mister Sushi, you forgot to cook my fish.
"Am I dead or alive? What's this? Linoleum? I must be in hell." -The Salton Sea
That's a great idea Greencu, but I dont' think it would be too practical for where we work. See, I live about 40 min from where my guys live and where most of our work is. I wouldn't ask them to add that much time to their day and I really don't want to pay for that hour and a half either. If I had a problem with my guys showing up late or wanting to scoot out early, I'd probably reconsider but I'm pretty lucky that way right now.
Truth be told, sometimes it's me that scoots out early! Maybe once a week or so I have to split a bit early and meet someone to look at plans or a site or just get back to the office and knock out some paperwork. Saturdays can be like that too sometimes, I'll meet the guys and set them up for the day and then split and do what I gotta do. My guys average about 55-60 hours on site this time of year and I average about 50-55. Sometimes it's good to be the boss, I guess...... if you like paperwork, that is!
I like the Reading.... I'd probably go that route if I was looking at service bodies again. Although lately I really like those Supreme or Trademaster cut away cube vans with all those utility boxes and ladder racks.... nice package.
greencu,
over the last 9 years I had at various times used 3 different sub crews that operated the same way. The " owner" buys his guys lunch every day, supplies virtually all tools etc. and transports 'em. ( Btw---all 3 crews are really just 3 different versions of the first crew----most of the guys started out working for the first " owner"
you can assume ( what I have come to observe)
1) the owner is exploiting his workers to some extent( it's a co-dependent relationship)
2) the workers all have "transportation issues"---drug and alchol problems, no drivers licenses, no fixed address, are on work release from the drunk tank etc.
3) in a residential setting---the workers are peeing behind your customers garage, in the bushes etc.
4) none/few of them are covered by workers comp.
5) because of various chemical dependencies, personality issues etc.-----none of the workers can get a" real job"---so the owner exploits the situation with shockingly low pay( some of these guys were being paid $60-$80/day for pretty brutal work----no wonder they drink.
6) regaurdless of the location----these guys WILL walk off the job-----they don't care how far they have to walk---to them it's a badge of honor. remember---these are guys who can't plan far enough ahead to pack a lunch or bring water to drink-------a long walk will not stop them from quitting in a huff. LOL
I am subbing out some work this year to a crew whose employees don't need to be held hostage on a job, are able to pack their own lunches, maintain their own apartments, have drivers licenses and in general act like the responsible adults that they are. They are more expensive----but well worth it. this translates into a lower personal stress factor for me
Best wishes, Stephen
I've observed a direct inverse correlation between an employees ability to afford a lunch and their tendency to go out and drop $5 for a meal 5 days a week.I never can figure it out. They NEED their paycheck on payday because they have NO money to buy Wheaties for tomorrow. Yet I can easily spot at least $10 a day in discretionary purchases that they "can't live without".I'm going to the business folder to start a new thread.
Jon Blakemore RappahannockINC.com
1) the owner is exploiting his workers to some extent( it's a co-dependent relationship)
Maybe, but no more than I'm exploiting the sub. They're paid by the unit and if they bust it, they make fantastic money. I make more because they produce more units in a day. The pendulum had to swing a time or two to find that perfect line between speed and quality. By the way, since OSHA has been fining heavily in this area, in getting compliant, the speed has actually picked up noticeably.
2) the workers all have "transportation issues"---drug and alchol problems, no drivers licenses, no fixed address, are on work release from the drunk tank etc.
Not in this case. These guys are clean livers. I can't hardly get them to drink a beer with me after work.
3) in a residential setting---the workers are peeing behind your customers garage, in the bushes etc.
The customer always has the option of a porta potty in his front yard or allowing access to the bathroom. This particular crew often ends up setting down with the customer for lunch. They're not the hard cases my post inadvertantly made them out to be. I'm amazed by their efficiency and great attitude.
4) none/few of them are covered by workers comp.
In all cases, my subs either have their own WC and general liability or I buy it for them and deduct it.
I am subbing out some work this year to a crew whose employees don't need to be held hostage on a job, are able to pack their own lunches, maintain their own apartments, have drivers licenses and in general act like the responsible adults that they are. They are more expensive----but well worth it. this translates into a lower personal stress factor for me
Exactly. That's describing my guys. But they still all ride to the job together and don't leave 'til the foreman is ready and that man likes to roof.
Oh-I didn't realize you wrote the roof goof article. Nice work, but I still don't like "w" valley. I do however try to use copper valley as opposed to "california" cut valleys with shingles when the budget will allow it. What do you think of the practice of running a shingle (when using dimensionals) parrallel to the center of the valley instead of cutting the valleys?
Hey Mister Sushi, you forgot to cook my fish.
"Am I dead or alive? What's this? Linoleum? I must be in hell." -The Salton Sea
RE : Various crews---------your subs may be different----but it still seems a little like a chain gang to me. LOL----BTW I have never known anybody to get a portapotty for a one or two day job like most shingle roofing jobs
RE : your question about the valley-----
I have done it 2 or 3 times------it looks ok,
but ultimately I don't really like it and don't plan to use it.
stephen
Edited 5/27/2005 1:48 pm ET by Stephen_Haz
BTW----some one else was talking about storing cords and hoses------
What I do is
I have a large Rubbermaid tub with a waterproof lid. All cords and hoses get wound up on individual reels---and all the reels file neatly in the tub. I have a couple of different sized reels----so I have to be carefull to put the right hose on the right reel( they are marked accordingly)
just need a short extension cord---or a single 50' hose---no problem .
I do have one length of hose that is about 15' to long to fit well on the reel------eventually---if I can't find a bigger reel I will cut 15" off the hose so its fits "pretty" on the reel.
I bungee the lid to the tub so it doesn't blow off on the hiway.
I HAVE had a few contractor snicker at this set-up,as it IS vaguely like Joe Homeowner with his pegboard lined garage------but then MY hoses and cords arent laying in a tangled knot in a puddle of gunky water on the bed of my truck----or waving and banging from the ladder rack.
stephen
as it IS vaguely like Joe Homeowner with his pegboard lined garage------
I'm slowly but surely covering every verticle surface in my shop with peg board. I often couldn't remember which drawer I had put something in or if I had indeed put it back in the drawer. Now I can look at the spot where it's supposed to be and hopefully it's there. I'm starting to love pegboard. Actually, I do own a home and work out of it and my dad's name was Joe..............................Hey Mister Sushi, you forgot to cook my fish.
"Am I dead or alive? What's this? Linoleum? I must be in hell." -The Salton Sea
I use "Bowtie" cord wraps from McFeely's. Been using them for about a year now and they work awesome. They have a D-ring at the top. I bought a 6 foot section of that steel "L" shaped channel with the holes in it and screwed it into the studs in the wall of the trailer. "S" hooks hang off that and the Bowties w/ cords and hoses hang from there. Works great. I can get 3 or 4 hoses or cords on one S hook, but each cord or hose gets it's own Bowtie.
I'll try to post a link...
http://www.mcfeelys.com/product.asp?ProductID=bt-7030
dieselpig,
that looks like a good system----I might use it myself if I had a van or a cube truck.
But out of a pickup?-----I wouldn't want my cords and hoses hanging out in the rain like that----plus they would be stolen in about a day----plus---without my reels I would never get my cords and hoses wound up that neat.
Looks good.
My real problem now is that I work from home---and I just moved into another house----foolishly giving up the custom built garage of my dreams( 24x28 with a 18 foot overhead door 8 feet high)
so now i have to park my truck outside ( barbaric---gotta get a van)---AND I have to make do with a garage about 22x24 and a low ceiling-------it won't all fit in and some stuff is gonna have to go----gonna have to get leaner and meaner. LOL
Very best wishes, All
Stephen
I guess we all compromise somehow. At least you've got a garage! Once we get this second floor on our new house (just moved in Jan. and waiting on permits) I'll see what's left for money. A nice big garage like you gave up is definately on the horizon.... problem with the horizen is, it's really hard to tell just how far away something is.
Great article, by the way. Really enjoyed it, I just wish they gave you more space. I was horrified to see that you were so against valleys without metal flashing. It is standard operating procedure around here to run full width (3') ice and water down a valley and then either weave w/ three-tabs or cut with architecturals. Even on roof pitches 9,10,11,&12 you still think it's destined for failure, huh?
After this winter, I could use to get a little "leaner and meaner" myself. Unfortunately it won't be as easy as selling off a few tools. My excess is gonna have to get lost the hard way.... sweat and work. 'Bout 15lbs worth.
Be sweating like a pig.
dieselpig,
ALL valleys are destined for failure----SOMETIME. LOL
Personally---I am just intrigued by the thought process of installing a shingle rated at 30 or 40 or 50 years-----and then DEPENDING on the performance of an icegaurd that might only be rated for 5 years. given the choice----most roofers are going to use the cheapest icegaurd they can get-----hence the lowest ratings.
Now---if you want to do a closed cut or California valley----and you want to use something more dependable and more long lasting than the cheapest icegaurds
Try lining your valleys with Certainteed Flintlastic SA------It's a self adhering modified bitumen cap sheet-------comes in a variety of colors----(not that it will ever be seen) and fully able to be exposed to the weather( remember its a cap sheet intended for the top layer of a flat roof installation.
Basically its pretty much a self adhering version of torch down-----like icegaurd on steroids------it makes a fantastic valley lining. I try to save left overs from flat roof projects to use up in valleys and just use the regular icegaurd for eaves etc.
Cost is in the $60 range per square----but WAY better than icegaurd.
Stephen
Good to know Stephen, thanks.
See.... I told you that they should've given you more space the rag. ;)
Nikki - I just bought a used Chevy with a Knapheide body. It was an old plumber's truck. One reason that I bought it was that in addition to the boxes on the sides like Diesel has, there are smaller boxes that open on the top, on both sides that are the length of the bed (8') the width of the box (10"?) and about 3-4" deep. (I'm still trying to figure out how I can fill them with nails, screws, etc. I want to at least try to do it right at the beginning otherwise in two months, there will be a royal mess.) It looks to be a good idea.
Don
See, different strokes for different folks I guess. My Stahl has the flip top boxes too and I hate them because I can't find a ladder rack that I can use with them. Was actually thinking about filling them solid and then installing the Trac-Rac system made for service body trucks. I think it's either that or have a welder make some up for me, but I'm afraid that would eat up bed space.
At one point, a pry bar shifted in one of those flip top compartments and lodged itself against the latch release mechanism. I couldn't get the box open for almost a month before I finally gave up and drove an hour and a half to the "local" Stahl dealer/installer to have them get me in.
Oh well.... gotta give a little to get a little.
D- I plan on filling the flip tops with nails screws and hardware. There are about 20 dividers already in place which gave me the idea.
As far as the racks, mine has welded racks on it. The back "stem" goes down to the bumper. the front one is welded to the front of the bed. How they got between the cab and the bed front is beyond me, but it's stuck there pretty good. There's no upright in the middle, over the wheel, so I guess I can't carry anything too heavy, but the steel racks are square tube (about 1 inch or maybe a little more) so it's not like there's nothing there at all.
Don
Those sound like pretty good racks. Any chance you can take a couple pictures for me? Maybe at the important connection points as well as a shot of the whole rack itself? It would really help if I could go to a welder with some sort of a design.
If you can't, no big deal, but I thought it would be worth asking.
Sorry guy, I just got your message. It didn't show up as a "Notification" and I stumbled across it rereading the thread. I do own a digital camera, but when it comes to doing the "attachment" thing, I must confess to being a virgin. I'll give it a try tomorrow - maybe am, maybe pm. If worst comes to worst, I can take a picture, and I do know how to go to the Post Office. Don
Diesel-
Okay, here goes - The steel is 1.5 inch square tube (outside dimension), the front bracket is welded to a piece of square stock then to a flat plate against the front of the bed and the rear leg goes down to the bumper - which is welded on the truck. The rear horizontal bar is removable. It sits inside a larger piece, with a pin to hold it in place. This is so you can put the refrigerator (or whatever large item you have) straight in, without hitting the bar.
I have five pictures and for some reason, the computer will not upload them. I can try to print them and fax them, or print them out and mail them. Your preference? Send me an e-mail and let me know.
Don
Actually I do think framers really need trucks, but I see a lot of others trades crawling in and out of the back of their pickups to get tools when a van or cube van or trailer would work better. Trucks with side tool boxes are more practical too (but don't look as cool for cruising after work).I worked out of a truck for a while (a diesel even). It looked spiffy compared to my van--but I have to admit, my van works better for my gig. Actually I fear blowing out my back hefting a compressor or other heavy tool over an open tailgate. I like my low to the ground transportation (like your trailer). Seems some trades don't require trailers but drive trucks and everything is hefted to pickup bed height. For some, tool boxes are sliding around loose on a slick liner, banging into each other. Add a topper and it's like crawling in and out of a cave.I have to admit, I covet the microwave and your whole set up sounds great.Here is a photo of the trim guy cart and photos of my only exterior framing work this past year.Edited 5/8/2005 2:39 pm ET by basswood
Edited 5/8/2005 3:03 pm ET by basswood
We are a two man show. Hey, what's a T - 15 bit? I have progressed in 40 years from a trunk to a sta wagon, to van, to now a diesel box truck with built in steps rear and side door. It's the best I've ever had or seen for this work. There's several drawers with "keepers", counter space, etc. I recommend this style truck for remodeling. This one was originally set up for selling car parts. One of my organizing fundamentals is putting things in "logical" places. That way, a year later, unless reason is gone - that works. I got me one of those spiral notebooks and kept it with me today. I had used one of those for a while but got away from it.
T-15 is a Torx or stardrive that fits the screws I use to install cabinets. Here is a link (lame website, but great product):http://www.grkfasteners.com/cabinet_screws.htmIf you install many cabinets give them a try. They are self-tapping and have built-in washers. Most hardware stores carry them around here (but not HD or Menards).
I don't know why I was thinking drill bit (maybe because we use 6 inch #40 bits a lot we got at a factory surplus outlet). I'm warming up to Torx. You reminded me of another organizing trick I have started using. I use a piece of rubber fuel line hose that the 1/4 inch screw drive bits fit snug in and store one in both ends with one drive bit sticking up out of my pouch. I carry about 6 different ones that "quick connect" into the driver drill extension. I also carry about 6 different sizes of 6 inch drill bits from # 40 to 3/16.
My note pad is divided into categories:
Things to Get: Things to Do: Phone Calls to Make: Fax/Email:
I keep a separate lists of:
Projects to Wrap Up: Current Work: New Referrals: Bids to Write:
Open Bids: Work Queued Up: Completed & Billed (AR): Complete (billable):
Subs/Bills to Pay: Tool Maintenance: Tool Wish List: Business Ideas:
Edited 5/8/2005 2:41 pm ET by basswood
Edited 5/8/2005 3:39 pm ET by basswood
I agree that some guys drive trucks for image alone, but just a small % of the tons of trucks out there. I love diesels setup, the new logo is sharp too. My van is great for what I do untill I need to haul alot of materials.Then I miss my last truck; We have enough truck/van/trailer threads as is.
Brad,I didn't mean to corrupt the thread. My first post in this thread just made brief mention (one paragraph out of six) of the significance of vehicle type (tool box on wheels really) in organizing and accessing tools. It seemed relevant.Actually I can only recall seeing two threads on trucks and one on work vans in the last 4 months (since I found Breaktime).Perhaps I digress, but I sometimes miss my truck too. Now I have to call for a delivery, or move things around or out of my van to make room for materials, or I have to hook up the trailer. If my 3/4 ton van is empty, I can get 30 4'x8' sheets loaded in flat. No diesel refill tank in there though.Hopefully, you found my last post in this thread more apropos. It was on organizing work related information.
I'm a remodeler with an emphasis on addition framing and decks. I run a PU and a 6x10 enclosed trailer. In my truck's toolbox I keep my toolbelt, a framing gun, two cords, a sawsall and skilsaw, a cordless drill, and mechanics' tools.
My trailer is what I call "a rolling home depot." I bought a set of steel/ MDF shelves and screwed them to the trailer's frame to hold assorted power tools. All my miscellaneous hand tools go into a bucket boss. Cords and air hoses are hung on large J hooks you find at HD, and there are tape labels above ech so my guys know where everything goes. I keep an old toolbox full of all sorts of gun nails, just in case. There's a two-section plywood box that holds 50 lbs. each 8 and 12 penny hand drives. Then I have one of those cheapo plastic hardware bins that I keep spare air fittings and assorted nails and screws in. All of my guns go into a plywood rack that's screwed into the top of one of the shelves. I also have a "crap box" that I throw odds and ends like window tape, half-used tubes of caulk, and shims in.
Depending on what job I'm doing, I have three more buckets (with organizers) for roofing, painting, and sheetrock that I can put in and out as necessary. These normally stay in my shed (along with 1,000s of gun nails and metal hardware).
That's tool org. Now to remember things I've put off along a job, I normally try not to; I try to get all the way finished with one thing before moving on...otherwise punchlist takes three days instead of one. I also kep a notepad with me that I write all kinds of notes on to remind me of phone calls, materials needed, etc.
If I ever figure out how to use my scanner, I'll try to load some pics of my tool setup on here.
That setup is just insanely nice. You must love it, huh? Very slick.