Replies

1. 
   joenurse | Sep 11, 2002 11:12am | #1

   Try marine epoxy. We used it for exterior woodwork at the boatyard where I used to work, and I never saw a joint fail.

2. 
   PhillGiles | Sep 11, 2002 04:44pm | #2

   Cyanoacrylate adhesives generally work well for bonding rubber, something like LocTite 496 - call their 1-800 # and see if they have a suggestion. General inquiries = 1-800-loctite, they also have a spcialist's line = 1-800-323-5106.

   .

   Phill Giles

   The Unionville Woodwright

   Unionville, Ontario

3. 
   archyII | Sep 12, 2002 03:22am | #3

   I did not see an option for "rubber" moldings on the link that you provided.  If it is urethane (fypon) they have there own adhesive.  The use of body filler for a lasting repair is questionable.  The rotted sections should be cut out and the remaining wood stablized/consolidated with epoxy.  The missing sections should then be built from epoxy.  Search Old house Journal http://www.oldhousejournal.com/ for the type of repair that you are doing. The bondo repair may trap water and cause greater problems later on.

1. 
   Piffin | Sep 12, 2002 04:02am | #4

   "Generally stocked in one or more of the following species: Red Oak, Poplar, Hemlock, Finger-Joint Pine, or Maple. Please inquire about other species. "

   This copied from the bottom of the pages linked - no rubber

   BTW the ft400 upside down would be a better classical choice for what you are describing.

   The Fypon adhesive is PL Premium with a special label and a marked up price. (found this out in the back room at the factory)Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   caseyr | Sep 12, 2002 04:22am | #5

   I have to agree with ArchyII, particularly when you say you took out most of the rot.  The best way if you can't get down to absolutely primo wood, is to use one of the injectable epoxys to consolidate the softened wood.  You can read about the process on the Rot Doctor web site at:

   http://www.rotdoctor.com/house/Hmain.html

   The West System makes what many feel are the best epoxy formulations.  They have manuals and info on line, but I haven't read it:

   http://www.westsystem.com

   If you have a really large lumber yard nearby, they may stock some of the injectable and regular epoxies for repairing rot.  The stuff ain't particularly cheap, particularly at a local lumber yard.  I have used stuff from Rot Doctor and was happy with it.  I got some really thin stuff from a local lumber yard and was a little less happy with that. 

1. 
   xMikeSmith | Sep 12, 2002 07:02am | #6

   here's a good source for west system by mail order..

   http://jamestowndistributors.com/cgi-local/SoftCart.exe/index.htm?E+scstore

   Mike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

2. 
   AaronRosenthal | Sep 12, 2002 08:04am | #7

   I agree with everyone about getting all the rotten wood out.  I went to my local Lee Valley outlet & got the stabalizer, a 2 part system and soaked all the parts I could reach with it.

   Part of the problem was where the rot was inside and I could only reach part way up. Leave it 48 hrs in August, etc.

   I know that the best way was to cut it out & replace the wood. The owners rejected the option because of the cost. Hey, look, if they know the options & choose this one, do I walk away from a job or do it, reminding them that it's a short term solution? They are friends, and they are intelligent. I'm honest and moral.

   I am building platforms out of treated 2x4 on its side with end cut for sealing the wood as well as cutting a  goove in the tile grout for drainage. Adding uprights from 1x2 just inside the exterior line of the columns & wraping the 1x2 with plywood, then attaching the moulding.

   Thanks for the input, folks. That's why I asked.