I’ve been sistering 2x4s to my trusses to allow for attic storage. I’ve been doing this with screws and Liquid Nails subfloor adhesive.
Unfortunately HD (at least here in San Diego) has stopped carrying all but a couple of types of Liquid Nails. So I’ve had to go to Lowe’s and buy the small tubes at nearly 3 times the cost.
I noticed Mike Holmes (Holmes on Homes) using PL Premium (a Canadian product) for a somewhat similar project. Does anyone have any experience with it?
Given the time and money I’m putting into reinforcing my trusses, I wasn’t willing to try the new brand HD is carrying. What gives with them stopping carrying such a basic, trusted product?
Replies
I use the PL
I think it is a much better product than Liquid Nails
I first used the PL about 5 or 6 years ago on the advise of a friend. Since then, I only use Liquid Nails when the PL is unavailable. As good as Liquid Nails is, I think the PL is a superior product.
I heard all the liquid nails got used up by pranksters gluing toilet seats...
Sorry bout that.
Anyway: Use the PL Premium. It's better; like the other posters said...
"We choose our joys and sorrows long before we experience them."
— Kahlil Gibran
Edited 1/20/2008 3:54 am by mizshredder2
here's yur chance to get it right...
use PL Premium instead...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"I've been sistering 2x4s to my trusses to allow for attic storage."
Sticking 2X4s alongside trusses will NOT increase their load carrying capability.
A: Because Italians don't like any witnesses.
I was wondering if you would catch that?;)
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
How about if the truss has two inside bearing points and you added between that span?
Hard to say without looking over the situation. It would have a good chance of working.But most trusses do NOT have 2 extra bearing points under them....
My mechanic told me, "I couldn't fix your brakes, so I made your horn louder."
Very true. I agree! Need more info.
Thanks
Edited 1/20/2008 7:08 pm ET by LTAB
he's not sistering them for added load capacity.he reinforcing them so he can cut out the members that are in the way for his "bonus" room!!:l.
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"After the laws of Physics, everything else is opinion" -Neil deGrasse Tyson
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I have Transcended the need for a Humorous tagline...
MisterT:
First, I'm happy to have everyone's input here, except yours in this particular instance.
I am NOT cutting out any structure in my attic. I would not dream of doing anything but reinforcing what's there without a very specific engineer's report. I have not cut and am not going to cut any part of any truss.
I am sistering them to reinforce them for a limited amount of items I plan to store in my attic. So don't try to make me out to be some sort of idiot.
lighten up dude..just a little humor that Boss would(or not) appreciate..I understand what your are attempting and I also understand that without proper structural analysis there is NO way to evaluate what you are proposing.ESPECIALLY over the interwebthing..Boss and piffin are just being a little more polite than I..
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"After the laws of Physics, everything else is opinion" -Neil deGrasse Tyson
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I have Transcended the need for a Humorous tagline...
No problem. I've just posted on too many forums where someone posts a stray comment like yours, somebody else reads it and then replies, and it somehow becomes part of the discussion. If that happens, it just takes away from valuable information I can get from the replies here.
And I know there are people who would make the kind of modification you're talking about. I don't want to be mistaken for one of them.
He just forgot the smiley face, it was a joke I believe.
The PL premium is a far better product for that.
except for the fact that it is a project you probably should not be doing in the first place from a structural POV
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
Piffin and Bosshog...
When I purchased this house I had a structural engineer out to look at the trusses. The permit had not been completed and I was concerned about the weight of the roof tile used. (It all turned out okay; the previous owner simply hadn't gotten the final inspection. I now have the completed permit and the engineer's report allowing the tile used.)
The top and bottom chords on the trusses are 2x4s, but the webbing is all 2x3s. The engineer told me that I could greatly strengthen the trusses by sistering 2x4s to all of the members (with screws and liquid nails) and adding plywood gussets.
My trusses span a distance of about 30'. From the pictures of different types of trusses I've seen, they appear to be "common trusses."
The bottom chord of each truss is supported by at least two perpendicular walls.
Having already added the 2x4s, and felt the difference in the trusses while walking on them, I don't see how they couldn't strengthen the trusses. Why would you doubt that they would?
Well, that sounds a little confusing to me, but different than the picture I first had in mind. You said you were adding members to beef them up for storage.
Since most trusses do not have a deep bottom chord and it gets covered in insulation, I pictured you adding a horizontal member about 14" up from that bottom chord and laying a plywood deck over that to store things on up out of the insualtion.The effects of that might be to concentrate loads in ways that would create point loading the trusses were never designed to handle, whgile at the same time increasing the total load they were expected to bear. That could lead to failure of joints or members in unanticipated ways.So do you have a written recomendation from the engineer to CYA if this does fail? From your curent description, I don't think you are harming them but I don't imagine that what you are doing is helping much either
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
"The bottom chord of each truss is supported by at least two perpendicular walls."
But are they BEARING walls? If not, they don't make any difference, IMHO.
You had not previously mentioned adding plywood gussets - Only 2X4s. If this was designed by an engineer who has experience with trusses, then that's a different story. But the fact that he's an engineer doesn't mean he knows anything about trusses.
If he just said throw something on there and didn't specify what or where, then I would seriously doubt his advice.
In particular, it bothers me that you're using screws. I haven't seen an engineered truss repair yet that allows screws, and I've been doing this since 1984.
Can you post the design drawings that he gave you that show the plywood gusset sizes, fastners required, etc?
Why aren't "hemorrhoids" called "asteroids"?
Piffin and Bosshog...
I've removed the insulation to accomplish this, and will replace it with R13 for 2x4 walls because it will fit the depth of the bottom chords without being compressed.
I'm also adding rigid foam panels underneath the bottom chords (between the bottom chords and the drywall) to make up for the loss of R value. I live in San Diego, so the whole insulation thing isn't as important. The attic orginally had R19 fiberglass.
I don't believe the perpendicular walls are intended to be load bearing. But they are there, and they do support the bottom chords of the trusses, so they are obviously helping. They are constructed the same as the exterior, load bearing walls, so I don't see how they could not be adding substantial strength. Wouldn't you agree?
Originally, I was just going to sister 2x4s to the bottom chords as the bottom chords are what the things I store will rest on (I decided to go ahead and do the webbing and top chords for whatever strength that might add). It seems to me that reinforcing the bottom chords alone, with them in turn being supported by both the exterior and interior walls, offers a great deal more capacity for the type of storage I'm describing. Wouldn't you agree?
Again, I should emphasize that I'm not planning to store a great deal of weight in the attic. There are plenty of people in my subdivision with the same attic (with no reinforcing) who are storing far more than I ever would even with it reinforced.
I did not get finalized plans for reinforcing the trusses as it was not an issue for the roof that was installed. It turned out that an engineering firm had already signed-off on the roof before it was installed and the previous owner had simply never finished the permit process.
So, I am winging it with what I am doing. But all I'm trying to accomplish is a bit of reinforcing for some storage. I am using screws, but I'm thinking the the Liquid Nails (which I'm spreading along the entire faces of the joined surfaces) provides far more strength than nails or screws.
I appreciate both of your input. And I do know that I can't presume any particular amount of strengthening since I am not using specific plans. But it seems to me that what I'm doing must be adding very significant strength to the trusses.
As for the gussets, I will glue and screw them (again, with the screws really just helping to hold things together while the glue dries). I plan to have them cover about 12" of the members in each direction.
So, given all of this, what do you think?
"I don't believe the perpendicular walls are intended to be load bearing. But they are there, and they do support the bottom chords of the trusses, so they are obviously helping. They are constructed the same as the exterior, load bearing walls, so I don't see how they could not be adding substantial strength. Wouldn't you agree?"No - not at all. You are making typical assumptions about trusses and the way the dynamics work with all your statements.but since you are as likely to have too much snow load in San Diego as I am to become president of the United States I won't bother trying to write a book on the stresses involved and how trusses work. I know just enough about it to mess up the facts anyways;)It is true tho that the glue increases the strength of that one bond.
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Piffin and Marv:
"It is true tho that the glue increases the strength of that one bond."
Piffin: I'm not sure what one bond you're speaking of. The Liquid Nails is continuous throughout.
What Marv said is true: I am basically contructing entirely new trusses beside each truss. When I say I am sistering 2x4s, I mean I am sistering the entire length of every cord and web piece, and duplicating the angle cuts at the top. I am then adding the plywood gussets.
Every square inch of every 2x4 I'm sistering is coated with Liquid Nails for subfloors. And every inch of the plywood gussets that touches these 2x4s will also be coated with Liquid Nails (or maybe PL Premium now).
that is the bond i am talking about - between the sister and the original truss member. nothing contentious there.
It just doesn't folow that you are necessarily making the truss as a whole stronger___Don't mind mister T. He is one of our resident court jesters____You said to Boss,
"All I am saying is that it seems to me that these perpendicular walls must be adding some amount of support to the trusses."What SEEMS to be true is not. A basic of truss installation is that unless trusses are specifically designed to have interior bearing points like those walls, then they should not even be fastened to then. There is even a condition known as truss uplift that occours in more cold climates where a truss your size can lift the ceiling a couple inches in the center of the house. Special techniques are used to deal with this fact. If the carpenters wrongly nail the trusses to those walls, the truss uplift can often lift the walls right off the base plates. most trusses are designed to NOT bear on interior locations.That is all just for your education and for t any others who may be reading and want to copy your plan. Like I said, San Diego is not likely to experience heavy snow that will challenge things which may be why the engineer was ambivalent.The problemn comes in when one owner does this little bit just for some light storage, then the next owner want to store a little more, then the next one tries to finish off a room for his kids to watch TV and play games in, then soembody decides to cut in a skylight.....
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
The problemn comes in when one owner does this little bit just for some light storage, then the next owner want to store a little more, then the next one tries to finish off a room for his kids to watch TV and play games in, then soembody decides to cut in a skylight.....
I understand your point here, but I can't be responsible for what the next owner might do, any more than the previous owner is responsible for what I do. I'm just not going to limit what I do to my house based on unreasonable presumptions the next owner might make. Without any modifications, that next owner might still be like so many of my neighbors who just presume that if there is room for stuff in the attic, the weight of the stuff is irrelevent.
What SEEMS to be true is not. A basic of truss installation is that unless trusses are specifically designed to have interior bearing points like those walls, then they should not even be fastened to then.
I know that trusses aren't necessarily designed to rest on interior walls. But whether it's intended or not, these trusses do, and they are firmly attached.
What I've said, what I'm asking, is this: If these bottom chords are already resting on these walls, and if I sister 2x4s to them that also rest on these walls, isn't that alone going to support a greater load of stuff on top of those bottom chords than they would have supported before? It seems to me that the answer to that question is yes, even though I know there are these other concerns you mention.
"I can't be responsible for what the next owner might do"I know that I am being realistic here, but we do need to also keep in mind that information dispensed in any one thread here gets applied to several other real life situations not quite the same as yours so I try to put it all in context - which is not only what happens with the next owners of your house, but the next distillers of this page of information.and honest to God, what seems right to you *might* be partly true in your case only and you get by, but would be totally damaging to the next set of trusses modified by the lurker reading this who never chimes in, but follows your example and our advice.so sometimes we try to be complete and sometimes we kill each other with overdoing it.;)
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
"It seems to me that reinforcing the bottom chords alone, with them in turn being supported by both the exterior and interior walls, offers a great deal more capacity for the type of storage I'm describing. Wouldn't you agree?"
No. Adding load to non bearing walls is inviting trouble, unless you check to see what's under them and figure out how the added load will affect everything.
You admit that you're winging it, but you also seem determined to tell us that you're right, even though you appear to have no experience in structural design.
Believe whatever you want - It's your house
Are there any UN-guided missiles?
"...appear to have no experience in structural design."Appear is a very kind and tactfull use of the language here Boss, given that every one of his basic assumptions is wrong.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Well, I'm TRYING to be kind and tactful.I know that's hard to believe, but I really am.(-:
I've laid down the law to everyone from now on: No matter what time it is, wake me. even if it's in the middle of a Cabinet meeting. [Ronald Reagan]
From his description, it appears that he is actually adding one or two home-made trusses to each existing truss. He is adding 2x4s and 2x3s and plywood gussets...another truss. If these are added to both sides of existing truss, this should strengthen his floor a lot.You get out of life what you put into it......minus taxes.
Marv
He may be. But since he's just "winging it" we don't really know that.You can't really add plywood guessets AND scabs in the same place. Which places NEED reinforcing, and which ones don't?Is he reinforcing the plate at the heel joint? Is he using the right size and quantity of fasteners? (Probably not, if he's using screws)How big do the gussets need to be? What grade and species of lumber are the truss and the scabs?There are just too many unanswered questions to have any idea if what he's doing will help or not.
I have wondered at times about what the Ten Commandment's would have looked like if Moses had run them through the U.S. Congress. [Ronald Reagan]
You can't really add plywood guessets AND scabs in the same place. Which places NEED reinforcing, and which ones don't?
BossHog: I don't think I've gotten across what I'm doing. I am adding 2x4s along the entire length of every chord and web piece in each truss, and I'm duplicating the angle cuts of the original trusses where these pieces meet.
I will then add the plywood gussets on top of these 2x4 pieces. So I am adding gussets and scabs in the same places. Maybe I'm reinforcing a lot that doesn't need reinforcing. Overkill is fine with me.
Let me make this clear: I am not in any way cutting away the structure that was already present. Not one single cut in any cord or truss. My goal is to create some very limited storage space. I will store things like my Christmas tree, lights and ornaments, spare furnace filters, rarely used yard tools, some plastic bins with spare plastic and copper parts, etc. No liquids, nothing particularly heavy. And not a lot of the light stuff, either. No furniture, nothing that can't fit through a 22"x30" opening.
I fully understand I don't know exactly how much load capacity I'm adding. But given this and my other most recent posts, wouldn't you agree that I have to be adding at least some additional capacity?
Edited 1/22/2008 10:57 am ET by JDLee
I am not a structural engineer nor truss builder, so I would defer to Boss Hog in this case-he does this stuff for a living. Remember that while you are building for yourself, the next guy who owns your home may decide to load up that area beyond what you are building for.
Secondly and more to your original question, I used to use Liquid Nails a lot, but it seems they've changed the formula in the past few months-it feels more like a latex caulk and doesn't have the strong odor as before. Perhaps they changed it for VOC reasons or business reasons, but I don't have the same confidence in it. And I'm switching to PL Premium. Another reason not to shop at Home Cheapo.
Expert since 10 am.
Edited 1/22/2008 11:38 am ET by jackplane
"I fully understand I don't know exactly how much load capacity I'm adding. But given this and my other most recent posts, wouldn't you agree that I have to be adding at least some additional capacity?"
It probably will add SOME capacity. But how much? And why go to all that work without knowing?
Q: What do you call a lawyer who has gone bad?
A: Senator.
All of the input I got here kept bouncing around in my mind, so I hired a State of California licensed civil engineer to come out and inspect the work I've done reinforcing my trusses.
He had one bit of useful advice regarding reinforcing one particular area of the truss, but said that the reinforcing I had done accomplished what I intended; that my attic is now more than fine for the type of storage I intend to use it for.
It cost some money, but he did have some useful input, and it gives me some peace of mind, so it was worth it. And since it was the input I got here that caused me to hire him, that was worthwhile, too.
so what was his input???
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
The main thing he suggested was adding extra support where the two 2x4s I sistered to each bottom chord meet (it's a 30' span so I had to use two 2x4s to span it).
He also suggested that I distribute any weight I place up there evenly (which I would have already known to do).
And he told me a lot about trusses. In particular, he talked about why my house and many if not most houses have perpendicular walls that are attached to the bottom chords of trusses, even though the trusses weren't necessarily built to have walls attached there.
He said that although they may not have been engineered with that in mind, you're almost always going to find interior, non load-bearing walls that are attached to bottom truss chords because it is convenient. He explained that there are pieces you can attach to trusses to provide support to walls without having them directly attached, but that in his experience these pieces are used for commercial construction. And that's been my experience, too. I've worked on and/or been in many slab/truss homes in San Diego, and all that I have seen have walls attached to the bottom chords of the trusses. That seems to have shocked some people here, but if it's what's being done so widely, what can you say?
thanks...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
No problem. I should emphasize, however, that this engineer, my contractor and I all have experience only in southern California and nowhere else. I don't know all the ways building practices might differ here and how the mild climate here might allow for certain differences.
I know...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Notice how many times you had to say IF to get that thought across?
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
No. Adding load to non bearing walls is inviting trouble, unless you check to see what's under them and figure out how the added load will affect everything.
I do know what's under every wall. This is a single-story slab home, and the walls are open, so I can see the slab and see it's in fine condition.
Still, I'll admit that I don't know if the slab is strong enough in these points to support a load-bearing wall. There is only one interior load-bearing wall in my entire home (one load bearing wall that rests on anything but the center of the slab). It is built and fastened to the slab the exact same way as the perpendicular walls that support the area I am reinforcing.
You admit that you're winging it, but you also seem determined to tell us that you're right, even though you appear to have no experience in structural design.
No, it may seem that way, but that's not it at all. If I felt that way, your input would not interest me, and it does.
All I am saying is that it seems to me that these perpendicular walls must be adding some amount of support to the trusses. They are there and they prevent the bottom chords from going lower. I'm sure there's some amount of weight that would cause them to fail, but I am also sure it is far less than what I would ever put up there.
Believe whatever you want - It's your house
Look, I'm just trying to make some basic statements about the logic I'm using here. I know it's insufficient to add a second story or start storing books or lead up there. I'm just looking for your input for the very limited presumptions I am making.
I'm also adding rigid foam panels underneath the bottom chords (between the bottom chords and the drywall) to make up for the loss of R value. I live in San Diego, so the whole insulation thing isn't as important. The attic orginally had R19 fiberglass
Hmm, my quick check shows, mild, certainly CDD=368 & HDD=708.
But, the "gotcha" is that my quick eyeball of it say that SD is climate zone 7, and the CA energy code requires R-30 in attics.
That might be easier to obtain by moving the insulation plane to the roof and away from the ceiling. That, if only for fitting rigid foam between the existing truss members and also retaining storage area. Whether the existing bottom chords might permit attic storage is more BH's area, though.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
I don't know that much about the characteristics of PL adhesive but if it is strong enough to handle the forces, the screws serve only to hold the material in place until the glue cures. The glue joint should be as strong or stronger the the material glued. A lot of the stuff I have seen come out of a tube allows creep and is not that strong.
Back it the early 50's and late 60's before the metal plates took over, I was in the pre-fab business. We shipped thousands of glue-nailed plywool gusset truses into five states. We used plain ole casine glue. They were tough. Just keep em dry
I'd enjoy hearing about the history of what you did - Like how you built the trusses, cut the lumber, etc.did you use the old flip jigs? I've heard of those, but never have seen noe.
Q: What's the difference between Clinton and a screwdriver?
A: A screwdriver turns in screws, Clinton.....Well, you know
The bearing or not bearing wall has more to do with what is under the wall than how the wall is built I believe.
Yes, that's another thing the engineer was telling me. But he also said that the walls that are perpendicular to the trusses do end up transferring some of the load to the slab. And the issue then becomes how much load the center of the slab can handle beforeit creates a problem for the slab.
I posted that before I saw your post about slab. From a design standpoint slab would have to be strengthened if a true bearing wall but I believe it would not be nearly as critical in your case to beef up a little. It would be more critical if they were partition walls over a basement/crawl space with inadequate structure (for increased load).
Side comment about future owners overloading, you do have some responsibility I would think as their assumptions of seeing the extra structure and flooring would infer some suitability. All that said you seem to have taken the high road and done it right (engr, etc).
Personally I do not like Liquid nails and most here would question the structural adequacy of products unless spelled out for that. As to screws, Boss knows trusses. Screws into the narrow edge of a 2x4 can weaken if over done. It seems like they usually try to limit even smaller nails in that application, one of the reasons to use truss plates (properly installed).
Bob
Disclaimer: not an engineer or lic anything (Commercial pilot, SE ME, Helicopter does not count)
The screws went into the broad side of the 2x4s.
As a retired attorney, I can tell you I have absolutely no responsibility to the future owners. If I were to sell it and represent it is usable for storage, then I would need to qualify that representation. But you simply aren't responsible for unreasonable inferences that people make. And any inference that the structure I've added up there is useful for a given amount of weight, absent any representation by me, is unreasonable.
But people make presumptions about the storage capacity of attics all the time. That is their business. To argue otherwise would be to argue that there should already be warnings included with the trusses and the house that they are inadequate for storage.
That said, if I were to sell the house, I would mention the large attic and pull-down access. But I would also state that it is only suitable for lightweight storage.
I used PL for years. Works great.
BTW. Check with local lumber yards. You might find that some products are better purchased at the lumber yard.
2x4's no.
Trim-Absolutely.
Adhesives-??>Some yes, some no.
At least that is my experience on this side of the country.
Did you get any engineering on your trusses or are you winging it?
If winging it, be careful about extra weight on the trusses!!!!
Here in Texas, Home Depot has gone to selling their caulks and adhesives stick by stick, no more case prices. Prices are higher and they are in it for the $$$$$$$$.... If your local store isn't carrying Liquid Nails anymore, it could be because of Inventory on the horizon, or somebody's forgot to reorder, or that product is a slow mover and they've gone on to faster moving inventory....
I've been using both the subfloor adhesive and the PL Polyurethane adhesive on a cabin project. Removing the Poly. product from your hands with Acetone while it's still wet or you'll wear it for a few weeks, until it wears off is the only down side to that great product.
At Lowes, you can buy PL adhesives by the case of 12 for a lot less. Either forget HD or get Lowes' price for 12 tubes and make HD match it, "PLUS 10% Off".
Don't worry about changing from Liquid Nails to a PL product.
Bill
Edited 1/20/2008 9:02 pm ET by BilljustBill
JD,You can buy both products, small or large tubes, singles or by the case @ Dixieline.- KitTechnique is proof of your seriousness. - Wallace Stevens
Ever since Liquid Nails got rid of the picture of the woman in short-shorts and a cowboy hat, with caulking guns in twin holsters, I refuse to use their product. Now THAT was advertising!
I'm kidding. Mostly.
To get PL off while still wet , try to spray some WD-40 on a terry cloth rag. And wipe your hands with that....
Thanks for the idea, I'll give it a try next week when the temps get a higher.
Bill
Yeah, it works . Another trick Is : If you ever have a need to smooth out polyeurethane caulk to a smooth bead . or if it squeezes out of somewhere and it is to be painted . etc . I keep a little bottle of liquid soap to dip the tip of your finger in before smoothing. It works awesome and...no mess. Polmolive ( the green kind) works good. Thanks to a guy I used to work with for discovering this after a tube popped on a cold morning and he tried to use soap and water to clean up...
tuff stuff when it gets on hands, be careful. use hand lotion, it will come rirht off. it is toxic so be very careful.
I don't know, have you ever read the warning label on Liquid Nail? Maybe the box stores don't want to be liable anymore. Come to think of it, maybe it is a homeland security issue. Fumes from a tube of LN and a spark from a nail gun and you could have a big bang theory. Besides, PL is a far superior product and you get less BANG for you buck.
Just to clarify, last time I checked PL was made by Chemrex, out of Savage MN, not Canada.
but the plant is in Denver and OSI is there in the same building..
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Years agoI would buy Urathane99 from Chemrex. It was hard to find. Then PL had Premium Polyurathane. It worked the same. This is like 10 years ago it had a little label saying manufactured by chemrex. Things change and multinationals buy up and sell stuff. I just wanted to point out it may be manufactured in the US for those who would resist buyin it otherwise.
Also thanks Bill for the more in depth back ground.
Jason
PL is (was) a Sovereign Specialty Chemicals company which was bought by Henkel North America. Henkel parent company is german based.Henkel also owns OSI and Loctite. So it is very possible that they have realigned PL to be under OSI. And it makes me wonder about the Locktite Power Grab if it is marketed and/or made through the OSI/PL chain as the other Locktite products are in much different applications.Chmerex is owned by BASF which also owns Sonneborn and Thor.This is Chemrex's product areas."CHEMREX¯ adhesive solutions for construction flooring and heavy-duty transportation bonding, are reliable multipurpose options for customers demanding the best and most advanced products available. CHEMREX high-performance adhesives are used to bond wood and rubberized flooring to a variety of substrates. Its rubber binder technology is also used to create rubberized flooring surfaces, and a state-of-the-art polyurethane flooring adhesive bonds laminated hardwood, solid hardwood, and parquet flooring to any kind of substrate. The CHEMREX Industrial Division manufactures a variety of adhesives and adhesive/sealants used in the transportation industry, for truck and trailer bodies, heavy-duty trucks, and recreational vehicles. CHEMREX adhesives provide more strength and flexibility than mechanical fastening systems, and can be used on most materials."I did see that amount their products was some building type such as floor patch..
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.