Since I plan to start building the shop next week I decided I had better dig out my nail gun.
Relatively speaking 20 years old but brand new .. bet I have not put 100 nails through it.
It is a Ridgid (HD brand) 21 degree (says 22 deg on it) … 2 to 3 1/2″ nails.
So, I looked at the nails left over from building the house (I was paying for them so the framers left them here) …
1) Hatachi 3 x .120 Hot Dip Galvanized, ring shank
2) Bostich 3 1/4 x .131 (12D) smooth, coated,
And how knows what else we used … we had about 5 different guns here .. a few different types of nails.
Now I am thinking … mud sill is PT … do I need galv nails to go from the wall sill into it?
Even the nails in the wall sill will be touching the mud sill ( when I stand up the wall onto the mud sill) … should those be galvanized?
I am looking at the Lowes web site … they still offer the same Hatachi nails.
The Bostich are not galv but are 1/4″ longer and thicker.
The framing is 2 x 6 .. mud sill 2 x 6 PT
What should I be using ???
Does it even matter if I use galv vs coated vs bright for the framing ? Ring shank vs smooth ??? I have only used a hammer and spiral nails in the past.
Second question … for the wall sheathing over the framing … 1/2″ osb or plywood …. I am thinking 1 1/2″ long ring shank ?
Snow is melting !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Building next week (I hope) !!!!!!!!!!!
Mike
Replies
The most important thing is to pay attention to safety. I valued an older FH article which included an x ray of a baseball hat nailed to the skull of a crew member. The tool was in the hands of someone coming down a ladder, who had gotten used to keeping the trigger pressed and using the safety stop as a trigger, bouncing it along the sheathing. As I recall, the injured fella ended up ok, but had quite a headache and interesting story to tell.
It also is important to understand that wood has knots and other defects that can deflect a framing nail in any direction. So keep the other hand far away from the pointy end of the nailer. behind your back is good. safety glasses are a must, if you ask me.
I built my (now ex-wife's) garage with a borrowed nail gun. worked fine. have to play with the air pressure to make sure the nails are where they need to be, and not too deep.
Check your codes, but I think you need longer nails for the sheathing. esp the roof.
I want to guess 2.5 inch Might get away with shorter if coated or ring shanked.
I used coated nails for the framing. worked like a champ. I used nails with a twist for the sheathing, both were HILTI, since that was the brand my neighbor had.
Thanks! The gun did in fact scare me the first time I used it. Held the stud against the sill ... shot the nail ... came out the side of the stud and just nicked my hand.
I learned to hold it way back.
Also after getting hit with a few pieces of steel (and plastic), I decided safety glasses were a good idea.
I might get the hang of this yet!
Hi xtal_01,
I finished up the framing of my new shop building 18 months ago. I used a nearly new, but 15 year old Bostich 21degree framing nailer. I ended up using galvanized nails for everything - it was just easier and not that much more expensive for a one-off job like mine. I used coated 12d (3 1/4") for framing. The coating really works, as the nails were a b**ch to pull out. I used 8d (2 3/8") coated, ring shank nails for sheathing, siding, and exterior trim. I was never able to find 6d (2") framing nails of any type. In terms of brand, I mostly used Grip Fast nails, available at Menards and Home Depot.
Marty
Thanks! That makes sense .. it is not like I am building dozens of houses ... just one large (3500 sq ft with 16 ft walls) shop ... just use all galvanized. Should be a challenge!
Mike
Good thing about a nailer is that it is not that much extra work to not scrimp on the fastener schedule. There is such a thing as too many nails, but a few more here and there, in my way of looking at it, makes sense.
I also decided that some hurricane clips to keep the trusses on the walls was a worthwhile investment.
The hurricane clips are definitely in my plans. I live in a very windy area ... watched a barn next to me get taken apart last year.
This is only a workshop but I want it to stay standing for a good long time.
I am pretty conservative when it comes to building ... if it needs two nails, I put four.
I can see with a gun who you can go a bit too far.
It was good talking with you guys and doing some reading. I was all ready to go out and buy a siding nailer but now I think I will use my framing gun with 2" ring nails.
That saves $300
Thanks!
Power driven nails are generally not as strong as the hand driven common nails that are identified in the prescriptive code nail schedules. The wire size of power driven nails is more often equivalent to box nails.
To meet code requirements, you should use the schedules in the evaluation report of the nails you are using. Most of the commonly availalbe power driven nails are covered by ESR-1539, available here: https://icc-es.org/report-listing/esr-1539/
Metal connectors, joist hangers, hurricane ties, etc, require hand driven common or the shorter connector nails. You cannot use the nail gun for these.
I found a palm nailer great for driving common and connector nails. Particularily helpfull in awkward / restricted spaces.
Thanks!
I was thinking I would have to drive all the metal fastener nails buy hand ... how else could you line up the nails with the holes.
I completely forgot I bought a palm nailer! I used it once for a tight job where I could not get a good swing on a hammer ... worked great.
Thanks so much for the tip!