Replies

1. 
   Gene_Davis | Mar 17, 2007 07:10pm | #1

   We've used a combination of subfloor adhesive and screws.  The screw holes were counterbored and plugged with grain-oriented plugs of the same species.

   We've also used the glue and fastened with 16d finish nails, punched down with a set.  The holes are filled with a color-matched hard-set filler.

1. 
   PeteDraganic | Mar 17, 2007 09:48pm | #5

   I don;t see how there would be any need to attach through the visible face at all.  Attach at far back of tread and underside of front.  Risers will finish the concealment.

   When you're this good, EVERYONE wants a crack at you!

   http://www.petedraganic.com/

1. 
   arnemckinley | Mar 18, 2007 04:26am | #8

   i agree that it is unneccesary to fasten through the face, but i personally like the look of plugged wood. one of my favorite floors is a mahogony floor with black walnut plugs throughout. beautiful.

1. 
   DanH | Mar 18, 2007 06:23am | #9

   Well, you can always do fake plugs if you like the look.
   So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin

1. 
   arnemckinley | Mar 18, 2007 05:12pm | #12

   i've never put in fake plugs. putting in real plugs is not that time consuming when you're talking about stair treads,although if you don't like the look of plugs then by all means the formentioned is the way to go. it seems like doing that and fake plugs would not be worth the time though.

2. 
   andybuildz | Mar 17, 2007 07:30pm | #2

   finish/trim screws and PL Premium

    

    

   A good friend will come and bail you out of jail...
   but a true friend will be sitting next to you saying,
   "Damn... that was fun!"

    

   http://WWW.CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM                                   

    
3. 
   calvin | Mar 17, 2007 07:41pm | #3

   While using adhesive, you can screw the riser to the tread from the backside and pocket or toe screw the tread through the stringer, again from the backside.  No plugs to deal with.

   A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   http://www.quittintime.com/

    

1. 
   DanH | Mar 17, 2007 09:43pm | #4

   I'm a bit confused here:-- By 1" do we mean "nominal" or actual? Is 3/4" oak (or even 1", for that matter) sufficient for treads, even with a riser under the front edge?-- Isn't there a danger of the tread splitting if it's fastened too tightly to the stringer?
   So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin

1. 
   woodguy99 | Mar 17, 2007 11:03pm | #6

    

    

   -- By 1" do we mean "nominal" or actual? Is 3/4" oak (or even 1", for that matter) sufficient for treads, even with a riser under the front edge?

   We install 4/4 and 5/4 treads all the time.  Rarely have I ever seen anything different, on new houses or houses 100 or 200 years old.

   -- Isn't there a danger of the tread splitting if it's fastened too tightly to the stringer?

   No.  Are you thinking about cross-grain movement?  Because the stringer is at a low angle it's never a problem.  PL Premium prevents squeaks and levels out small variations; besides that nail tight, or finish screw, or wood screws with a plug all work great. 

    

   "This is a process, not an event."--Sphere

   And I'm a legitimate certifiable Tool Whore.--Dieselpig

1. 
   buzzjob | Mar 18, 2007 03:33am | #7

   So can you just glue and screw from underneath and angle the screw throught the stringer into the tread ?

   I thought it might be easier to apply 3/4 ply for the treads and risers first and then screw the  finish treads and risers throught the plywood. Is this not an accepable method too ? albeit a little more expensive.

1. 
   user-158769 | Mar 18, 2007 10:31am | #10

   "thought it might be easier to apply 3/4 plywood for the treads and risers first, and then screw the finish treads and risers to the plywood..."

   Stringers are already in place right? Then won't adding 3/4 ply to treads & risers affect your existing stringer layout?  You'll end up with a "short- height" step at the top of the run. On your stringer layout, how thick of a tread did you allow for?

   Davo

2. 
   buzzjob | Mar 18, 2007 06:41pm | #14

   Stringers are already in place right?

   No, I have yet to cut the stringers. It sounds like both methods here are acceptable.

   Thanks to all.

3. 
   woodguy99 | Mar 18, 2007 04:01pm | #11

   You can, just be sure the rough treads are screwed and glued with PL Premium.

   One of these days I'm going to try that method myself if I can remember to cut the stringers 3/4" short! 

    

   "This is a process, not an event."--Sphere

   And I'm a legitimate certifiable Tool Whore.--Dieselpig

4. 
   Matt | Mar 18, 2007 05:39pm | #13

   >> 

   I thought it might be easier to apply 3/4 ply for the treads and risers first and then screw the  finish treads and risers throught the plywood. Is this not an accepable method too ? albeit a little more expensive.

   <<

   1" thick oak stair treads are pretty stout to say the least.  Installing plywood seems un-necessary to say the least, and I'd be concerned that you would be be increasing the possibility of having a squeak - the worst enemy of this whole process.  

   Having the extra think risers would definitely be a waste and serve no purpose.  Rather than spending another $38 on an extra sheet of plywood you would be better off and save time by just sending the $38 to me :-) 

   Edited 3/18/2007 10:44 am ET by Matt