I’m checking in to the Dry-vit certification. Anybody know what’s involved. The nearest distributor seems to be about 3 1/2 hours away – Chicago.
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You have to sit in a class for 2 days.
http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
Is there a charge for that?And is the rumor true that you have to have it to buy the materials?
Edited 11/13/2008 7:45 pm ET by Fonzie
Is there a charge for that?
There wasn't 10-12 years ago when I got mine.
And is the rumor true that you have to have it to buy the materials?
That was the only reason I got it. After I got certified, I decided I didn't want to use the product.http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
Now I'm curious why you didn't want to use it - are you bored with it or not impressed.
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So is it true then that because some guys didn't put flashings in I have to go sit in a classroom 2 days to buy Dryvit? What's the way around this?
>>So is it true then that because some guys didn't put flashings in I have to go sit in a classroom 2 days to buy Dryvit? What's the way around this?That is only one of the details that would get screwed up - the major one, perhaps, but I've seen plenty of windows and doors with improper detailing - I've seen a lot with the bottom buried in soil, or improperly finished, etc.
"Ask not what the world needs. Ask what makes you come alive... then go do it. Because what the world needs is people who have come alive."
Howard Thurman
Ditto that.
Another biggie is not wraping the edges with the mesh. The mesh needs to turn both the front and back of the exposed edges, which makes it a step durring the hanging of the insulation board. From what I have seen there are at least two seperate crews involved in EIFS installs. The first one hangs the insulation board and does the flashing then the second crew is strictly finishers. The finishers apply the mesh and the coating so they would have to be on site for the board install to pre-wrap all the exposed edges, so it doesn't get done on most residential work. There is sometimes a third crew that does only the caulking and that is another critical step that needs to done right.
I'm curious why you didn't want to use it -
I was doing an addition on my tudor style house and had to match/replace some stucco panels. Dryvit seemed like a good option. Being a roofer the flashing details were second nature to me, but most of the two day seminar was spent on kickout flashings. This was after the East Coast class action suits had kicked in and they were skittish to even sell their product it seemed.
Now, as I have to reroof around it and deal with cutting it out to replace flashings, I like it even less.
BTW, I ended up using Durock with a texture coat of real stucco over it. I've since sold the house, but it's held up fine and matched the existing stucco better than the dryvit would have.http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
I ended up using Durock with a texture coat of real stucco over it. I've since sold the house, but it's held up fine and matched the existing stucco better than the dryvit would have.
Did you do it yourself?
Could Durock be used over exterior foam board?
My house was suppose to be EIFS, but cost and a dearth of good installers nixed that. Plan "B" was fiber cement siding, but it still won't achieve the look we wanted.
Go to the Durock site. They have a detail for this installation. The Durock replaces the wire mesh and scratch coats. I did do it myself, by my self.http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
It's my understanding that there are several manufacturers of that product.And there are significant liability issues if it isn't used properly....
"Ask not what the world needs. Ask what makes you come alive... then go do it. Because what the world needs is people who have come alive."
Howard Thurman
There is only one manufacturer of DRYVIT.
There are similar products manufactured by competitors. KLEENEX and facial tissue thing.
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I did.http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image