FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter Instagram Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe

In every issue you'll find...

  • Expert insights on techniques and principles
  • Unbiased tool reviews
  • Step-by-step details to master the job
  • Field-tested advice and know-how
Subscribe Now!
Subscribe
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
  • Join
  • Log In
Subscribe

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

What’s that rule about paint…

Photog | Posted in General Discussion on August 29, 2002 11:08am

…you can’t paint flat over semi-gloss, or you can’t paint semi-gloss over flat, or something like that?
I’d like to repaint with flat paint a ceiling that was painted with semi-gloss. But I seem to remember some such warning about not going over one finish with the other. Does such a rule exist and if so, is there a way to accomplish what I’m after (appropriate primer, etc.?)
Thanks in advance.

Reply

Replies

  1. painterguy | Aug 30, 2002 01:21am | #1

    I think the "rule" you are remembering is not to use latex over and oil paint.

    Although this is not necessaryly true.  It really depends on how well you prep the oil paint and the primer you use before the latex goes on.. 

    Over oil base paint you can use an oil primer with latex finish or a good acrylic latex primer such as PPG Sealgrip will work also.

    If your ceiling is a semi-gloss latex just lightly sand (wash if dirty) and use a good flat acrylic latex paint.  You should have no proiblems.  If it is oil you should lightly sand and then prime with either of the above mentioned primers.

    How do yo decide if you have oil or latex? Get a small contaner of "goof off" at almost any home or paint store or just some rubbing alcohol.  Put the goof off or alcahol on a rag and rub it on the paint in question.  Latex paint will become sticky...if it is oil base nothing will happen.

    Been in the painting business over 20 years.

    1. junkhound | Aug 30, 2002 03:41am | #2

      "you can use an oil primer with latex finish "

      My 82 YO pop would surley agree with that.  Wherever he first got the idea when latex first came out in the '50s, he's never painted over old finishes except as described, except he insists on 2 coats of latex over the oil primer (from a WWII stash of surplus lead based primer yet!). Has averaged over 25 years per painting on his own house in central IL weather over the last 60 years - a few years ago my brother and I got to paint same house pop was born in (mom wouldn't let pop on a ladder in his early 80's, her dad died falling off a ladder painting a house), we questioned the second latex coat but gave in to experience.

      mea buder un mea gut two baad et speling prolly cus of du wite led?

      1. rez | Aug 30, 2002 03:57am | #3

        I tink yo speled lead wong. Lead wis gud pient.Half of good living is staying out of bad situations.

  2. User avater
    BillHartmann | Aug 30, 2002 04:10am | #4

    The only paint rule that I know is that spilled paint will get only get on the most expensive and hard to clean item.

    1. User avater
      jocobe | Aug 30, 2002 02:45pm | #6

      Hey Bill....What you are referring to is Gumpherson's law...

      "The number of times a jellied piece of bread falls jelly side down is in direct proportion to the cost of the carpeting"

      1. User avater
        BossHog | Aug 30, 2002 03:32pm | #7

        "The number of times a jellied piece of bread falls jelly side down is in direct proportion to the cost of the carpeting"

        But what if you strap the bread to the back of a cat, and throw it up in the air? Will the cat land on it's feet, or the bread land jelly side down?

        BTW - I thought the painting rule was no oil over latex, not the other way around.

        Room service? Send up a larger room.

        1. User avater
          jocobe | Aug 30, 2002 03:57pm | #8

          A cat would land on it's feet......of course.....anything other then that would be catastrophic!

          1. rez | Aug 30, 2002 08:58pm | #9

            Man, that's the real cat's meow.Half of good living is staying out of bad situations.

        2. JohnSprung | Aug 30, 2002 10:01pm | #10

          The cat will slide the strap around 180 degrees while in the air.

          -- J.S.

          1. User avater
            Flathead | Sep 13, 2002 04:34am | #16

            What if you just jellied the backside of the cat and forget the bread all together?

            dl

          2. JohnSprung | Sep 13, 2002 08:54pm | #17

            Then the rule about bread doesn't apply.  The cat will land on his feet, and immediately roll over on whatever is the most expensive and uncleanable surface available.  ;-)

            -- J.S.

          3. DCassII | Sep 14, 2002 05:11am | #18

            I don't know about jelly, but when I was a kid my bro and I figured out that if we fed the cat peanut butter, he loved it.

            Problem was, he didn't like the way it felt in his mouth, and he'd just about put his paws in his mouth to try to get it out.

            Then he'd want more peanut butter.

  3. JamesDuHamel | Aug 30, 2002 02:13pm | #5

    The "rule" you are looking for is pretty simple.

    If a paint surface is glossy (such as high gloss or semi-gloss) then it must be deglossed before it is painted over. Since flat paint does not have this gloss, most painters will paint right over it without a problem. Some prefer to prime the surface anyway.

    There are three ways to degloss a surface before you paint.

    1. Sanding - messy, tiresome, and labor intensive. Latex paints are hard to sand properly, and tend to gum up. However, with the right touch, and patience, it can can bedone.

    2. Chemical deglossers - smelly, messy, and time consuming. They do work well though.

    3. Special primers - this is the easiest, and least labor intensive, although the most expensive. There are special primers available that are made specifically for priming glossy surfaces. They chemically bond themselves to the surface of the exisitng paint, and allow for a new topcoat of either oil or acrylic based paints.

    James DuHamel

    "The Power Zone"   http://www.thepowerzone.org

    Texas Workforce Youth Center

    Silsbee, Texas

    1. chiefclancy | Sep 02, 2002 07:31pm | #11

      James-

      do you know of any specific brands of primer that can be used for this purpose? I got funny looks when I asked about it at the local paint shop. I have to re-paint a three story staircase in the back of this apartment building and don't feel like sanding the whole thing.

      thanks

      1. JamesDuHamel | Sep 03, 2002 03:30am | #12

        Hey Andy,

        Zinsser brand Bullseye 1-2-3 is one that comes to mind. I know Zinsser makes some other primers that do the same thing, but Bullseye 1-2-3 is the easiest and best smelling to work with.

        The Bussleye 1-2-3 is a water based primer, and is easy to work with, as well as easy to clean up. This is a water based, NOT latex primer. There is a BIG difference in the two. This primer works well with any top coat whetehr it be oil or acrylic based. James DuHamel

        "The Power Zone"   http://www.thepowerzone.org

        1. chiefclancy | Sep 04, 2002 04:39am | #13

          James- thanks, I'll check that out.

  4. fcraven | Sep 13, 2002 03:41am | #14

    I know this is kind of late in the game, but the "rule" is:

    Don't put OIL over LATEX, but Latex over oil is OK.

    You usually hear this "rule" for exterior siding. If it's painted to oil, you can paint over it with latex. Once a house is painted with latex (or Acrylic) they say not to paint it with oil.

    That being said there are more exceptions then rules, I will prime new sheetrock with an Acrylic primer, and top coat it with an Alkyd paint (yes an Alkyd wall paint).

    A better rule, is to paint on a sound substrate. Sound acrylic paint can be sanded, primed, and coated with alkyd.

    As far as glossy surfaceses, a scuff sand is all you need (and all surfaces should be clean).

    Best of luck,

    Fred

    Sometimes painter

    1. DCassII | Sep 13, 2002 04:34am | #15

      The roofer was telling a story not too long ago about his painter buddy.

      Seems the painter was working in this high-dollar home, oriental rugs all over the place, etc. etc.  So he's painting up a storm, working like a champ, and somehow he kicks over the paint can.

      Right then the cat walks by.

      Painter grabs the cat, rolls him in the paint, and swears really loud.

      GD cat!  Look what you did!

      He got away with it, too.

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Building a Zero-Energy Home for Less

An Oregon design-build firm makes high performance more affordable.

Featured Video

A Modern California Home Wrapped in Rockwool Insulation for Energy Efficiency and Fire Resistance

The designer and builder of the 2018 Fine Homebuilding House detail why they chose mineral-wool batts and high-density boards for all of their insulation needs.

Related Stories

  • Designer Kitchen Cabinets on a Budget
  • Podcast 459: Leaky Attic Stairs, Right-Sizing Heat Pumps, and Vapor Barriers in Dirt Crawlspaces
  • Linda Reeder: Architect, Professor, and Author
  • Podcast 458: PRO TALK With Glue Expert Bob Behnke

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Justin Fink Deck Building Course announcement
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Sign Up See all newsletters

BOOKS, DVDs, & MERCH

Shop the Store
  • Code Check Building 4th Edition
    Buy Now
  • Outdoor Projects
    Buy Now
  • 2021 Fine Homebuilding Archive
    Buy Now
  • Tool Guide 2022
    Buy Now
  • Shop the Store

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 307 - June 2022
    • How to Raise a Post-Frame Home
    • Trimming Deck Stairs
    • Evolving an Energy-Efficient Envelope
  • Issue 306 - April/May 2022
    • Framing Stairs to an Out-of-Level Landing
    • Building a Zero-Energy Home for Less
    • Good-Looking and Long-Lasting Traditional Gutters
  • Issue 305 - Feb/March 2022
    • The Steady Surge in Residential Solar
    • The Fine Homebuilding Interview: William B. Rose
    • How Good Is Your Air Barrier?
  • Issue 304 - Dec 2021/Jan 2022
    • Why You Need Blower-Door Testing
    • Passive-House Standards for Everyone
    • Window Replacement With a Side of Rot Repair
  • Issue 303 - November 2021
    • Compact Cordless Miter Saws
    • Maximize Space with Thoughtful Built-Ins
    • 10 Essentials for Quality Trim Carpentry

Fine Homebuilding

Follow

  • twitter
  • facebook
  • instagram
  • pinterest

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Sign Up
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences

Taunton Network

  • Green Building Advisor
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Fine Gardening
  • Threads
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Copyright
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2022 The Taunton Press, Inc. All rights reserved.

X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Shop the Store

  • Books
  • DVDs
  • Taunton Workshops

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Sign Up See all newsletters

Follow

  • twitter
  • facebook
  • instagram
  • pinterest

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to set_percent%

Subscribe

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in