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what’s the correct order

timestamps | Posted in Energy, Heating & Insulation on April 21, 2007 04:26am

From the inside of the house…paint, 1/2 foil faced drywall, pink fiberglass, 3/8 plywood, TYPAR ? then 2″ rigid foam,and Hardiplank…or 3/8 plywood, 2″ rigid foam then the typar wrap and finally the hardiplank siding? Would the same apply if i were going to stucco instead of the siding? any thoughts? The house has existing aluminum siding with tar paper underneath the siding that’s being removed first. Thanks to all, I owe you a beer if your ever in town!

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  1. gb93433 | Apr 21, 2007 06:32pm | #1

    Stucco goes last because if any hammering is done the stucco may crack. The drywall needs to be installed but not finished before the stucco. The lather may hammer on the wall and if the drywall is finished his hammering may crack the drywall joints.

    1. DanH | Apr 21, 2007 07:56pm | #3

      I was always under the impression that the stucco went on last because it worked out better on the outside.
      So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin

      1. gb93433 | Apr 21, 2007 11:05pm | #4

        "I was always under the impression that the stucco went on last because it worked out better on the outside."If the lather uses a hammer when installing the lath then he can disturb the drywall joints inside. When the plasterer puts on the stucco he does not use a hammer. The drywall finisher does not use a hammer. The point is that you do not want someone hammering on something when it may damage work that is already done.

        1. DanH | Apr 22, 2007 12:00am | #5

          Gee, some folks got NO sense of humor.
          So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin

          1. gb93433 | Apr 22, 2007 05:04am | #8

            You can read just about anything on the internet. So it didn't surprise me when I read what you wrote. However you do have to have a sense of humor to keep from going crazy sometimes in construction.

          2. DanH | Apr 22, 2007 05:18am | #9

            Did you read what the OP wrote?
            So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin

        2. User avater
          SamT | Apr 22, 2007 12:14am | #6

          A properly done stucco , not EIFS, system will stay wet for at least 4 weeks. 2 for scratch and 2 for brown. After that, you can beat on the walls with a framing hammer. Before that you do not want any barriors to moisture travel like DW.

          In the interest of speed, the DW is usually installed three days after the scratch and before the brown, then mudded after that. If any minor cracking in the scratch does happen, it doesn't usually show before the warrantee is up.

          When speed is the only concern, scratch, brown, and color coat are often applied on consecutive days at the same time as DW. Bad stucco, bad drywall. SamT

          Praise the Corporation, for the Corporations' highest concern is the well being of the public.

          1. gyros | Apr 22, 2007 04:10am | #7

            check out http://www.airbarrier.org

          2. User avater
            SamT | Apr 22, 2007 06:01am | #10

            I'm not clear on the relavence to what I posted. help me out here, would you?SamT

            Praise the Corporation, for the Corporations' highest concern is the well being of the public.

        3. timestamps | Apr 23, 2007 07:12am | #13

          I'll keep in mind the hammering effects but what i was asking was advise on is the layering order of typar over the sheething or over the new polystyrene insulation keeping in mind that the drywall is foil faced ( if that makes a difference at all )? Cheers I guess i should be more specific when talking about modern day stucco, I didn't realize that the "real" stucco was still being applied. My reference was for EIFS but more importantly is the fact that Hardiplank siding is being installed over the 2" rigid foam.

          Edited 4/23/2007 12:17 am ET by timestamps

          1. gb93433 | Apr 23, 2007 09:52am | #14

            I had real stucco done for the past 30 years. Most of it was put on by the same man until he retired. After he retired it was hard to get someone who was consistent and didn't like beer more than the job.The same man did all of my stucco and plaster work.

    2. timestamps | Apr 22, 2007 06:29am | #11

      say...wait a second...your not the guy i hired to install my baxi...are you?

      1. gb93433 | Apr 22, 2007 08:55am | #12

        You will have to educate me. I am not sure what a baxi is.

  2. DanH | Apr 21, 2007 07:55pm | #2

    There are religious arguments both ways with regard to where in the layers the housewrap should be installed, and even stronger religious arguments as to whether it should be used at all.

    In general, ignoring issues related to supposed problems with reactions to the siding material, etc, the housewrap should be outside of any porous insulation layers (the fiberglass) but can be inside or outside of other layers. A major deciding factor would be which option allowed the most effective sealing of seams and joints around doors, windows, etc.

    My understanding is that "real" stucco people generally want building felt behind the stucco, and this would presumably reduce the need for housewrap.

    So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
  3. poisk | Sep 20, 2007 12:52am | #15

    Was wondering how you finalized the order for your intall, since I am considering having the following order: Durisol block/MineralWool Rigid Board/Coating/Hardiplank. 

    Any suggestions given your experience, thx

    1. timestamps | Sep 20, 2007 04:18am | #16

      Had an energy audit done...the reports not back yet but it was suggested that i shouldn't bother with the Typar...so for the time being it looks like ( from the inside ) DW/fibre pink/sheething/well taped ridgid board/3/4" strapping and then the Hardie plank ( #15 felt strips behind all but joints and seems at trim boards. Wish i could say more, but i'm still on other projects and havn't gooten (that german for gotten) to installing that yet.

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