FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

What’s wrong with this truss #7

BossHog | Posted in General Discussion on April 6, 2005 05:35am

Since this seems to be a popular thing I thought I’d try another.

Since you’re getting so good at this, you’re now reviewing shop drawings BEFORE the trusses are built.

When you flip by the drawing of this girder truss something catches your eye. What is it?

BTW – I think this is a fairly easy one. So would you builders mind laying back a while and letting some of the others take a shot at it?

And a side note to Blue – You’ll notice this drawing has a heel height and bearing elevation on it. (-:

View Image

It’s time to change the air in your head.
Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. PolarBear | Apr 06, 2005 05:58pm | #1

    You have put different connection plates on the right and left side of the truss implying that the load is unequal on the two sides.  I would guess that this implies the right side of the truss (on the drawing) is expected to carry more weight and if it were flipped in the field, it could be problematic.

    Steve

     

  2. gdavis62 | Apr 06, 2005 05:59pm | #2

    I see the unbalanced span condition, even though the truss is symmetrical, as far as the webbing goes.

    And, that is why the plating is heavier on the long span side.  This is an easy one to put up backwards in the field.

    Blue would get it right, though.

    We've some trusses to put up in about 8 weeks, with this exact condition.  I'm glad you posed this problem, as it is a reminder to us to get the ends correct.

    1. Philter | Apr 06, 2005 06:19pm | #3

      Cantilered? No load point on the left....."If 'tis to be,'twil be done by me."

  3. User avater
    GoldenWreckedAngle | Apr 06, 2005 06:34pm | #4

    It would be better to make the bottom chord splice over the load bearing wall.

     

     

    If we fail to catch a cosmic fish it may be a trillion years before the opportunity comes again

    1. User avater
      BossHog | Apr 06, 2005 07:02pm | #5

      "It would be better to make the bottom chord splice over the load bearing wall."

      Nope.

      Splices are typically done where they work best from a cost/manufacturing standpoint. This is often in the center of the truss. (But only if it doesn't waste lumber) That makes for less saw setups.

      The program calculates the bending moment wherever the splice is, and figures the plate size accordingly. So the splice can be located almost anywhere.
      There are advantages to being elected President. The day after I was elected, I had my high school grades classified Top Secret. [Ronald Reagan]

      1. User avater
        GoldenWreckedAngle | Apr 06, 2005 07:16pm | #6

        Well then, let me go with the orientation and location of the plates on W2. 

         

        If we fail to catch a cosmic fish it may be a trillion years before the opportunity comes again

        1. User avater
          BossHog | Apr 06, 2005 07:58pm | #9

          "Well then, let me go with the orientation and location of the plates on W2."

          Which end of W2?

          Either way, that's not the problem
          "To Do Is To Be" [Socrates]
          "To Be Is To Do" [Plato]
          "Do Be Do Be Do" [Sinatra]

          1. User avater
            GoldenWreckedAngle | Apr 06, 2005 09:13pm | #11

            Then I'm going to have to go with the obvious, based on my extensive experience...

            The problem is that it's not made out of steel. <G> 

             

            If we fail to catch a cosmic fish it may be a trillion years before the opportunity comes again

  4. MikeSmith | Apr 06, 2005 07:37pm | #7

    it's a cantilever truss and needs a support over the cantilever

    Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
    1. User avater
      BossHog | Apr 06, 2005 07:58pm | #10

      "t's a cantilever truss and needs a support over the cantilever"

      Not to give you TOO much of a hard time, but -

      If it has support at the end of the cantilever, it's not cantilevered.

      Or are you saying it should NOT be cantilevered?
      Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please [Mark Twain]

      1. MikeSmith | Apr 06, 2005 10:12pm | #12

        boss , the way it's drawn..

        View Image

        the  9 ft. on the left is cantilevered.. there are only two support points.... the left side is unsupported.. the bearing point 9' in from the left needs a vertical support in the truss design

         

         

         Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

        1. User avater
          BossHog | Apr 06, 2005 10:19pm | #13

          "...the bearing point 9' in from the left needs a vertical support in the truss design."

          You don't need a vertical, as long as the truss is triangulated.
          Q: What is a man's idea of safe sex?
          A: A padded headboard.

          1. MikeSmith | Apr 06, 2005 11:37pm | #14

            boss.. my job.. i want a vertical.. pretty please ?

            oh, yeah.. and all a dem fancy labels "this side out"   "web brace here"

            "bearing point here"

            and the stamped prints for my building inspector .. and the bracing diagrams for my Liability Insurance

            also.. we have to put markers in to show how deep our insulation is..

             can you staple labels to the trusses 24" above the bottom chord ? the labels can have an arrow and "24 inches "

            you can do a roll-off delivery.. we don't need no stinkin craneMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

          2. PolarBear | Apr 06, 2005 11:42pm | #15

            Boss,

            Second guess - Does this have anything to do with where the cantilever point is?  I'm no builder (and don't play one on TV), but I thought you could not cantilever more then 1/4 of your total length which would mean that your fulcrum would be at something like 5'8" for a deck with this span.  Do cantilevered trusses act the same way?

            Steve

            BTW - Great idea.  It's a fun learning exercise.  Thanks for doing this.

             

  5. gdavis62 | Apr 06, 2005 07:47pm | #8

    I wuz wrong.  Looking at the "intermediate" bearing, I missed that it doesn't have a bearing on its left end.

    Thus drawn, it's a cantilevered truss.  But, as I said about the asymmetrical plating, it is an easy one to erect backward in the field.

  6. blue_eyed_devil | Apr 06, 2005 11:44pm | #16

    Boss, this isn't an easy one!

    It's not easy when I don't have an basis of information about the process of designing trusses. All we know how to do is install them and sometimes we get them standing without breaking them!

    I've got to go along with the non uniform plate thing.

    The fact that the left side bearing wall is not drawn in might mean something.

    I don't know about the truss design, but I can tell you what the pine line will be now that the heel is shown.

    Assuming that the span of the deck is correct, and there will be a 12" overhang, past brick, using a 1 x 6 fascia and a 1x 6 frieze, I come to the following conclusions:

    The top of the fascia is 5.83" below the top plate.

    If the soffit material is 3/8" plywood (typical around here), then the bottom of the Frieze is 15.25".

    If we are using wood windows, that have a brick mold, the header can be a total of 12.20". I'd use a 2 x12 and add a 1x4 rs spruce filler after the trimmers are installed.

    Personally, I'd suggest a higher heel to accomodate a larger amount of insulation.

    When my wall framers start the wall, I'd scribble all that information on the deck somewhere near them. We'd all remember that the "pineline" is 15 1/4" and everything would run smooth from there.

    Of course, when I saw that 8-0 elevation number, I'd automatically equivocate it to 8 1 1/8" and later if I saw a different height, I'd simply automatically make the 1 1/8" adjustment on each truss in the system.

    That's how we do it...all that calculating took me 30 seconds. Without that heel height and elevation height, that same calculation might take me one hour or more.

    blue

    blue

    Just because you can, doesn't mean you should!

    Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!

  7. User avater
    GoldenWreckedAngle | Apr 06, 2005 11:47pm | #17

    What size are your top and bottom chords?

     

     

    If we fail to catch a cosmic fish it may be a trillion years before the opportunity comes again

  8. DaneB | Apr 07, 2005 01:27am | #18

    Well I thought I had an answer then looked closer at it and changed my mind.

    Looks to me to be in backwards.

    That 9' over hang would put a lot of stress on the left side.  The plates are smaller on that side then the other.

    Dane

    I will always be a beginner as I am always learning.

    1. User avater
      BossHog | Apr 07, 2005 01:47am | #19

      O.K., I think this has gone far enough. On the last one, someone asked me to wait a whiole to let more folks try to figure this one out. So that's why I waited this long.Like most have guessed, the truss isn't plated symmetrically. The webs are symmetrical, but that isn't enough. In my experience, that gives you about a 40% chance of it getting installed correctly. On this particular truss, there is no load applied to the left of the interior bearing. So the 1/4 span rule of thumb doesn't really mean much. I've been trying to come up with other puzzlers, but it's getting more difficult. I'm about out of ideas.
      A modest little person, with much to be modest about. [Winston Churchill] (about Clement Atlee)

      1. blue_eyed_devil | Apr 07, 2005 04:11am | #20

        Boss, just post some of those really hard hip jack, vaulted, stepped up mono hip girder, piggy trusses.

        Then we can ask the guys that bad mouth the trusses how they'd frame it with sticks.

        Use one of those long spans too, will ya?

        blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!

        Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

FHB Podcast Segment: Are Single-Room ERVs the Answer?

Learn more about the pros and cons of single-room ERVs.

Featured Video

Micro-Adjust Deck-Baluster Spacing for an Eye-Deceiving Layout

No math, no measuring—just a simple jig made from an elastic band is all you need to lay out a good-looking deck railing.

Related Stories

  • Design and Build a Pergola
  • Podcast Episode 689: Basement Garages, Compact ERVs, and Safer Paint Stripper
  • FHB Podcast Segment: Are Single-Room ERVs the Answer?
  • Fire-Resistant Landscaping and Home Design Details

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 332 - July 2025
    • Custom Built-ins With Job-Site Tools
    • Fight House Fires Through Design
    • Making the Move to Multifamily
  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work
  • Issue 328 - Dec/Jan 2024
    • How a Pro Replaces Columns
    • Passive House 3.0
    • Tool Test: Compact Line Lasers

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data