Perhaps a stupid question from the world’s worst plumber.
I am installing a swanstone shower floor. It is new construction so all options are open.
The base has a “nailing flange” or at least that is what I think it is. I had downloaded the installation instructions before I bought it and they were very brief. I figured a more complete set would come with the base. Not so.
There is no mention or attaching the base to the stud walls through the flange. It does give the option of using a mortar to stabilize the base – which I will do.
So, stupid question – does the flange get drilled and nailed or screwed to the stud wall? If not what holds it in place? It is a single threshold type so 3 sides are walled in. Does the floor tile just wedge it in place?
It says improper installation voids the lifetime warranty so I want to do this right.
They are closed today so I can’t get tech support till monday and wanted to work on it this weekend.
Thanks.
Replies
I'm not familiar with swanstone brand. I have installed heavy shower bases such as cultured marble. If it is a heavy base like this, I set them in a morter bed, level, let cure (usually 24 hrs) and that's it. No Nails in the flange. It's there to make the transition from wall material to base not to fasten through.
If it's an acrylic or fiberglass base, and it's a nailing flange, I'm used to seeing little dimples at 6 -12 " intervals for the fastener locations.
Hope this helps.
John Svenson, builder, remodeler, NE Ohio
Its not a nailing flange and you should leave some clearance between the flange and the studs. Check page 2 of the install instructions.
I would get the floor flat and level. (self leveling is great for this) "glue" down the shower pan.
Install furring on the studs and install the hardy backer to lap inside the top the pan slightly but not touching. Tile and be done.
I would perfer to use swanstone on the walls too. But not all the colors appeal to everyone. Very easy to clean.
That is NOT a nail flange.
Do everything USAnigel said.
That is how I handled my base.
In addition if you use the swanstone wall material, use a notched trowel for total adhesive coverage.
I only ran beads of adhesive ( per instructions ) and I have a few loose spots I'm not crazy about.
Bill
I checked the instr. again and I do see the 3/16" gap. The drawing is not very clear and it looks like the flange touches the stud.
Why would they recommend 1/2" drywall as a substrate?
They show the drywall stopping above the flange. I was going to use concrete board. Should I hold it shy of the flange or overlap it?
I am using a preformed base because I figured it would be less trouble than a built up pan - I guess not.
I like the idea behind the swanstone walls but I like the look of tile much much better. The swanstone looks "prefabbed" even though it is good stuff.
So, if I set the base in some mortar on a level subfloor it will stay put? No shifting or flexing to worry about?
Thanks.
I feel the Swanstone is the best of the solid surface pans. Much nicer than the Fiat bases. We set them in a product called Structolite. Give the substrate a good soaking (damp) plywood or cement. Put the structolite mix down and set the base and LEVEL. We hold the base in place with roofing nails into the studs and the nail head 1/2 lapped onto the base flange. I also agree that the Swanstone walls are too much. It's like being in a Corian coffin. Tile is much classier. That said, if you want a solid surface on the walls I've used the Azek sheet goods @ about $100 for a 4x8 sheet of 1/2 inch. You can shower that night. The Azek is an excellent, indestructable surface for rental properties, and can look good too, at a fair price.
1/2" drywall is approved behind 100% waterproof material like Swanstone, but not behind tile.
Swanstone suggest some expansion room and thats why the 3/16" gap all around.
Yeah, I thought behind the solid surface it would be okay but they show it behind tile as well.
I figured if they didn't catch that error the instructions were a little suspect.
Where can I purchase structolite? What is the cure time?
Thanks.
the cure time is maybe 1/2 hr for Structolite We get the product at our plumbing supply house
Edited 3/22/2008 6:18 am ET by Pelipeth
I always prefered a super flat surface under something like this so I use the self leveling concrete, then then set to give me a thin but solid key to hold the pan in place.
Structolite , I have never used so I don't know.
So I don't need to "fill up" the under side of the floor just sort of glue it in place?
I was wondering if it is better to fill in the open spaces in the bottom of the pan or are the cast in ribs enough to stabilize it on the floor.
The floor is dead on level both ways so I don't need to shim at all or build up with self leveling compound - sometimes I get lucky, usually not though.
The cast ribs should be enought. Almost impossible to fill the base to be level and not over filled.
Yeah, I wondered how to fill it without access from below.
Someone suggested using expanding foam and just trimming off the excess when cured. He said just turn the base upside down block off the drain area and fill 'er up.
Sounds too easy - does the foam breakdown after a while or is there some other reason not to use foam. I have heard about people using it on a tub to provide sound deadening and keep the water hot longer in the tub but neither of those matter for the shower base just feeling solid underfoot.
Put the pan on a flat surface and walk on it. Is it solid enought or not? I don't think you need to fill it with anything but trying this will damp your fears.
if U wanna hold it steady and keep it from moving ...
U can drive roofing nails right above the flange.
not thru ... the shank of the nail sets on the flange ... and the head overlaps a bit and clamps it snug.
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
Edited 3/21/2008 10:40 pm ET by JeffBuck