I’m going to try floetrol for the first time tonight and I need to know when to add it. I’ve got a 2 floor hallway that needs 3 gallon cans of paint for the 2 coats. Usually I mix all the cans for the whole job together in a bucket and then pour what I need for the night into a roller bucket/pan and the rest goes back into the original cans. This is to prevent a slight difference in tint between the cans from showing up – pretty standard I imagine.
So when do I add the floetrol? When all 3 cans are in the big bucket so that they are all diluted the same amount or after I pour each “mixed” can into the the roller bucket/pan? How much does floetrol dilute the color and does it “keep” okay mixed with the paint in the can? Hope that makes some sense.
I’m also not really sure how much to add, so any tips on that would be appreciated. I’d like to not ruin 3 gallons of paint in one fell swoop.
Thanks!
Bob
Replies
I'd pour in Floetrol first, then add paint and mix/stir well.
I like to add half the dose on the label... 4oz/gal I think, but read to make sure.
I found the color to spread fine for 2 coats, but not one.
Troy Sprout
Square, Level & Plumb Renovations
Add as much as necessary and as little as possible.
Since you are new to the stuff I would recommend experimenting a little with different amounts to show how the stuff effects your particular painting. Sometimes it only takes a little, sometimes a lot.
Surprisingly, the color doesn't seem to be changed a noticable amount, at least with the trim that I'm typically using flotrol with, although with some paints it might be.
Bob, tho I suppose you can use it for walls and it might do something good in that respect, I've only used flotrol added to trim paint to smooth the finish.
A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Calvin, I agree about the walls - we're okay with those for the most part. Occasionally after the paint dries I'll see a little roller texture in one spot depending on how the light hits it despite it being pretty level. That's the only way I can explain it. I was hoping the floetrol would help eliminate that. Also I was hoping it would make the cutting in (which I'm still not great at - can't imagine not taping) look a little better.
Beats me bob, I only paint when a gun is put to my head.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Calvin, I agree about the walls - we're okay with those for the most part. Occasionally after the paint dries I'll see a little roller texture in one spot depending on how the light hits it despite it being pretty level. That's the only way I can explain it. I was hoping the floetrol would help eliminate that.
Also I was hoping it would make the cutting in (which I'm still not great at - can't imagine not taping) look a little better.
I don't mind a little roller texture as long as it's consistent. Better roller covers seem to produce less texture. I compared cheap roller covers and expensive ones here:
http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=68582.19
I do a lot of painting and I have yet to use Floetrol. One of these days I'll give it a try to see what all the fuss is about, but so far, my paint jobs meet or exceed my customers expectations. Maybe Floetrol just makes it easier to avoid overlap marks, but I don't have a problem with that. In general, I'm an anti-additive kind of guy because I figure if it made the product that much better, the manufacturer would add it and charge more. I'm sure that's not true in all cases, but it's not always false either.
I also haven't seen the need to pre-mix all of the paint for a particular job. Sometimes, I'll misjudge and need to go buy another gallon. Too late then to pre-mix anyway. What I do is to start the 2nd (or 3rd, etc.) gallon before I finish the first. This way, each subsequent gallon is diluted into the previous. I have yet to see this technique fail to produce the same color. If, however, you add Floetrol (or water, or anything at all), be very careful to add exactly the same amount to each gallon or pre-mix like you proposed.
For cutting in, don't work out of the gallon can. Get yourself a good cut bucket so you can control the amount of paint on the brush. And don't try to stretch how far you can brush before re-loading (number 1 novice mistake). I use a 2" sash brush because it's the easiest to handle. Get a good quality brush. This is one case where quality makes a difference. Purdy and E & J are 2 good names, but don't just go by the name. The brush has to feel right. I use softer brushes for thinner paints and stiffer brushes for thicker paints. Specifics won't help you here. You'll need to practice and see what works for you.
For me, cutting in is like using a fountain pen... with the right amount of ink and the right pressure, the ink/paint will flow off of the pen/brush at just the right rate to create a smooth, steady line in one pass. Almost.
I don't think I have a particular steady hand, but my customers are always impressed with my cut lines and I don't use tape. I Think it's because I have the patience to take the time needed to do it right. I'm not trying to be fast, I'm just trying to be fast enough. I do take much longer to cut in a room than to roller it, but that's probably true for all of us.
The 2nd coat goes much faster. Mostly because I cut in to almost, but not quite, the same line. I stay back from the very edge just a little. I never measured, but it might be 1/8" or even 1/16". I can also roller faster because a fresh (but dry) surface is less absorbent.
Happy painting,
-Don
Don, Thanks for the tips. I'm using an 1.5" angled purdy brush for the cutting it. Much nicer than anthing else I've tried. Its the steadyness and getting that close that's hard. We have shellaced wood trim so there's no painting over the trim to hide mistakes. That's why I tape for now. Hopefully but the last room in our house, I might not need to. The amount of paint on the brush is probably my problem. I'll try less.We paint the ceiling then tape it off to do the walls. Then go back and touch up the line with an artist's brush which is probably a little anal but it looks real good. Our local ACE carries two kinds of Purdy roller covers - white dove ones that are $5 and yellow ones that are like $2, which seem to do the job. Can't say I notice much difference. Have you tried both?Actually the most useful other tool I've found is a 3" roller for some tight areas and helping with the cutting in, but the covers for all those stink and are only like 1/16" nap. At least the ones I've seen.
I add it to just about all my paints. Sometimes not to my primers cause I like them to dry fast so I can get a first top coat on no problem the same day.
I love the stuff and in the long run its really no more expense being youre adding more paint to your paint basically.
As I get down the room and look back and see holidays I missed it still gives me plenty of time to go back and fix them before they harden. Not to mention the paint goes on like the feel of lanolin in the paint....is the only way I can describe it.
Be well
a...
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