Basic Q: I’m sure- when sheathing exterior walls where do you stop: at the bottom of the mudsill? 1″ below the top of the concrete (in which case any moisture barrier or eq.)? Or…? Also I am under the impression that for multistory buildings that the end of the sheets should break appr. midway on the band/ floor joists, any additional clarification on this is appreciated.
Thanks,
David
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If you are going to run your sheathing all the way down to the mudsill, I would hold the mudsill back the thickness of the sheathing so the surface of your sheathing is flush with the foundation wall.
In some areas of the country, they use the sheathing to tie the walls to the floor system, and the floor system to the foundation. We don't have to do that here. That's not to say that it's not a stronger way to build, but our 90 mph winds (according to code) don't ask for it.
Where are you located?
Jon Blakemore
RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA
Run sheeting down to cover the mudsill, which leaves a filler strip on the top, which you have anyway, depending on whether your trusses have a raised heel or flat or there's b.m.'d dimensional rafters.
In response to the earlier post re: framing inside the foundation. I wouldn't; you'll usually want to parge the foundation wall with something. Stucco-style parging that I use is about 1" thick - just under the thickness of sheeting and siding together, so everything planes in just right when you frame to the foundation and sheet outside it. Others may differ.
j
>>re: framing inside the foundation. I wouldn't; you'll usually.......<<
I don't hold the mudsill back either.
Mudsill at edge of foundation. Sheathing overlaps mudsill. Siding overlaps sheathing.
Jim Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
I like to do it how you say, sill flush with the foundation,sheathing overlaps sill,siding overlaps sheathing.
But around here most new home are built with the sheathing only covering down to the bottom plate, the engineered rim board is left to function as both structural and "sheathing". nothing really ties the walls down except some nails and gravity!
That's what I thought- either hold the mudsill in the thickness of the sheathing of flush the m.s. to the exterior of the stem wall. I'm still unclear about whether the sheathing stops (ends) @ the bottom of the mudsill or laps the concrete/ stemwall (if so, by... 1" or ?) in which case I would think some type of moisture barrier is called for unless using PT plyw. or such. I'm 90% clear but would appreciate a few more thoughts on this last issue.
Thanks,
Davidbtw- I'm in CA which generally does want sheathing to the mudsill, presumably for seismic / shear continuity (in addition of course to HDs, etc.).
I would not overlap the foundation unless you have a really good reason to do that. The siding will likely be sufficient to cover any gaps between the mudsill and the foundation.
Jon Blakemore RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA
So then hang the siding over the sheathing, what, say 3/4" or so? (enough to cover the seam but no enough to create a large unsupported edge)
Thanks,
David
That sounds like it would work.What is your exterior finish?
Jon Blakemore RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA
Exterior finish varies (usually lap siding) but this is more a general knowledge question. I had heard there were a few ways of handling it (but still couldn't really see the ply lapping foundation without adressing the moisture issue) and just wished to tap the great cerebral bank known as BT for a greater/ broader understanding :)
Thanks again.
Edited 2/26/2009 12:17 am ET by peedee
I'm with you, let the edge of the sheathing breath... but, after mudsills are squared up, it's usually half in half out...http://www.tvwsolar.com
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