Replies

1. 
   xMikeSmith | Jan 13, 2003 08:58pm | #1

   15 lb. felt

   Mike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

1. 
   Mickus | Jan 14, 2003 02:08am | #2

   Couldn't agree more.

2. 
   FG02026 | Jan 14, 2003 03:34am | #3

   I could'nt  agree more! after using all those hyped up expensive house wraps nothing holds up like felt paper

3. 
   FrankB89 | Jan 14, 2003 04:12am | #4

   I agree with the felt recommendations, but you asked about wrap and my first choice is Typar...the gray stuff.  It holds up as well as the others, has a muted color so doesn't blind you on a sunny day and doesn't glare out to the neighborhood like a pair of bleached skivies like Housewrap does.  And it's not as slick when you've got a ladder propped against it.

   I use scraps of it as a sawdust baffle on my sawmill and get about 2 years out of a piece.

   The WORST stuff is the pink.  It breaks down in weather in a matter of a few weeks.

   Jules Quaver for President   2004

4. 
   FramerJay | Jan 15, 2003 06:00pm | #5

   Hawk,

   I've used both Dow Weathermate and a product called R Wrap from Ludlow Coated Products, and I really prefer the latter. It holds up well to weather, is easier to work with than the Dow stuff, and it is semitransparent, which is good for me so I can see the 16" lines on the OSB so I know where to nail up the brick ties. I suggest you look at houses being built around your town and compare the different types they use. As for felt, it is always a good choice, and once you get the hang of installing it, you're good to go.

5. 
   RalphWicklund | Jan 16, 2003 03:20am | #6

   Ask your local code enforcement officials.

   I don't have the felt choice anymore here in Jax, FL. Had to rip off an entire felt job and replace it with - wait, I do have a choice - any one of the "housewraps". You see, code requires an air infiltration barrier and felt does not qualify. And in this particular case, I'll be installng fibercement lap siding over the housewrap. My very first FC job. Anybody know how long this building will remain watertight? Do I need to increase my insurance?

1. 
   BobKovacs | Jan 20, 2003 03:49am | #8

   Ralph-

   You asked "how long will the building stay watertight?"  One thing to remember is that Tyvek, Typar, and the like are AIR barriers, not WATER barriers.  They are not designed to keep water out- the siding should be doing that.   Check out http://www.buildingscience.com for some articles on air barriers, etc.

   Bob

1. 
   RalphWicklund | Jan 20, 2003 05:25am | #9

   <<<<One thing to remember is that Tyvek, Typar, and the like are AIR barriers, not WATER barriers. They are not designed to keep water out- the siding should be doing that.>>>>

   To quote Joseph Lstiburek, Ph.D., P. Eng.

   "The primary function of a housewrap or building paper is rain penetration control. It is not air infiltration despite what the manufacturers say. The energy aspects of housewraps are vastly overstated."

   These are the first sentences from an article he wrote about "Problems with Housewraps". I copied it a few weeks ago but would have to go back and find the web source.

   The reason I responded with "check with the building inspectors" was that I was told specifically that the energy code required HOUSEWRAP because it was an AIR INFILTRATION BARRIER (contrary to Lstibureks statement) and felt was not. Also, that the HOUSEWRAP was considered a WATER BARRIER, as well. I don't have a choice. It's housewrap, or stop building.

   Quoting the second paragraph in the same article:

   "The problem with building papers in general and HOUSEWRAPS IN PARTICULAR (emphasis added) is a loss of water repellancy.

   Although the examples given in the article are the reaction of unsealed wood (cedar/redwood) and stucco over wraps the general thrust is that the wrap can allow water to pass through. It would be the greatest thing since sliced bread if the siding truly kept the water out. Wrap would be unnecessary. But that will never happen. Brick requires weep holes. Why? Because brick and mortar are not waterproof. Vinyl siding has weep holes. Why? Because the stuff is applied loose and leaks like a sieve. Wood siding (clapboards) move, shrink, curl and cup and the joints open at butts and trim despite paint and caulk. Water is sucked or blown behind. EIFS applications have more lawsuits than you can count due to water damage and the jury is still debating the leakage sources (bad flashing, bad installers, bad material, bad design, etc.).

   BUT, I'm REQUIRED to use a HOUSEWRAP, not allowed to use felt and I'm just wondering out loud if this requirement might cause water infiltration through the wrap (under the FC lap siding). You can bet your last dollar that the code writers/officials/housewrap manufacturers won't be taking any financial hits if water does get past the wrap and kills the structure.

   I suppose now I should be ripping some furring and building out an air space before I attach the FC lap siding just as a precaution. Lstiburek recommends that procedure for wood in addition to back priming. I can do that at this phase but it sure screws with my trim plans.

1. 
   edwardh1 | Jan 20, 2003 06:08am | #10

   Maybe two are needed

   wrap for air

   and

   felt for water????????????

1. 
   Grott | Jan 27, 2003 07:23am | #11

   Check on the Blue Dow product, I belive the perm' rating is very similar to 15lb felt.

   I was told by a "factory Rep" it was designed to emulate(sp) felt because other manufacturers are having problems with water infiltration.

   Hope this helps.

2. 
   Boxduh | Jan 27, 2003 06:07pm | #12

   Out in the midwest where I built before, all the insulation contractors used a system whereby urethane foam is sprayed into the stud cavities against the inside face of the sheathing (almost always OSB), and the result is a thin (maybe 3/8") foam layer, and then the cavities are filled with glass batts.  There is your barrier against air infiltration, except that this type insulation system is not available everywhere.  Outside, I believe in 15# felt, and we use all the recommended techniques and products to flash all window, door, and penetration openings.  As for housewrap, I believe it is code in North Carolina, and guess where the big issue took place with water penetrating the outside finish (EIFS) and rotting sheathing, rims, etc.

6. 
   billyg83440 | Jan 16, 2003 03:37am | #7

   It amazes me that the pros here recommend roofing felt. Maybe it's agains code here, but I don't recall seeing that used here in Idaho.

   My wife thought I was crazy when I put roofing on the walls in our bathroom redo. Later I found several articles recommending it. At the time I had some and it seemed it'd do much better then a sheet of plastic. The old shower had nothing on the interior walls and plastic on the exterior. All studs around the shower showed water damage from leakage.