Hi everyone. I have to relace some windows on a board and batten exterior ,2*6 ext trim, post and beam house. The board and batten is on 1*6 nailer, horizontal rain screen. I want to replace the wood windows with vinyl or fiberglass single hung. Would a flangeless window work better here ? (I will be removing the siding.) I am not sure if I want to set the window flush to the nailers or the 1*10 vert boards but either way the flashing could be a problem. The existing windows just have caulk on top of the 2*6 trim so I want to flash this properly. Any ideas? Thank you.
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
Learn more about the benefits and compliance details for the DOE's new water heater energy-efficiency standards.
Highlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Replies
Sorry no one has responded. I'll give you what we cal a "bump" which is no answer, but keeps your discussion new and where others may see it and respond.
I have no experience with what you are describing, but if you are taking the siding off anyway, I don't see the problem with installing windows with flanges. Use the self adhering flashing, working from the bottom up so everything overlaps to shed water and you should be fine. Like you, I am not a big fan of trusting in caulk.
On thinking about this, I think I see your concern--there is no sheathing and so you would be nailing the flange into the edge of 1x's ? If so, couldn't you fit in some 2x material--how are the existing windows being held in?
I don't see why you couldn't use vinyl replacements. Replacements don't have the flange, while new construction windows do have the flange. However, it can be removed.
But that said, since the replacemet unit simply fits into the existing widow frame after the sashes are removed, I don't see how the siding or timber frame, etc.. have anything to do with it.
As far as flashing, casing and all that, can't really answer that without more details. If you could post a photo so we can see what your talking about, would be very helpful.
--------------------------------------------------------
Cheap Tools at MyToolbox.net
See some of my work at TedsCarpentry.com
I don't quite understand what you're saying, but my cabin is board and batten and I used the regular Anderson window with a flange (inside wood/outside brown vinyl)
Attach window to the ply sheeting.......flash if you need to.........apply board...apply window trim...apply batten even up and tight against window trim.
The window ends up pretty close to being inset 5/8 or so overall...and that's kinda what I wanted..........but I think B&B only works with a fairly good overhang.
I am one story 10x12 roof with absolutely no water problems, not sure that would be the case if I was 2 story and had lesser overhangs.
I think I understand your concerns- my current project uses Andersens, and I've considered board and batten siding, but the window/door trim details concern me. If you use any kind of a rainscreen (Homeslicker) or furring strips, your siding plus battens will be at least 1 3/4" from your sheathing. As a result, your nice windows will be "inset" from the siding (Andersen 400 series exterior extends 1 5/16" from the flange). It would seem that installing the windows with flange on the wrb (as usually done) would offer the most weather resistence, but you now end up with an inset window). If you shim out your window, placing the flanges on the same plane as your boards, you (probably) have a less weather tight installation.
Just some thoughts for others- wish I had an answer......
Hi. Thanks everyone for your input. I forgot to mention I do not have any plywood sheathing. The ext wall is a prebuilt modular unit with a reg 2 by6 stud wall with styro foam insulation .The inside wall had drywall screwed on and the outside is a rain screen with 1 by6 horizontal nailers every 2 feet screwed thru the styro into the studs.( This modular wall was then spiked to the post and beam.) If I use a nailing fin it either attaches to the nailers or the 1 by10 vert board. What I want to do is minimize the width of the vinyl sash and jamb because with a 2 by 6 trim I do not want to have 10" of vinyl and trim an then a tiny piece of glass.I figured that a replacement window would be close to the original wood windows. I am not against making the windows smaller by making 1" rough frame set into the opening and shim it in or out to where I want it.
Do you have a Milgard rep in your area? Avoid the big box stores, find someone that knows the ins and outs of the Milgard Tuscany series. They have enough options and configurations to solve every type of replacement window challenge I've come accross
http://www.milgard.com/products/vinyl-windows/tech-resources.asp?tuscany-single-hung
Photos would help immensely if You have them.
Lettusbee
another vote for the Milguards...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!