Replies

1. 
   EJCinc | Jul 08, 2006 10:36pm | #1

   I have to widen a step on a house we just finished.  I made it 4' wide and never checked the plan.  Should have been 6'. 

   We're busting it up and pouring all new because it's outside and will be exposed.

   In your case if it's inside the garage and you will be covering it with carpet or something then you could epoxy some steel dowels into the existing and use it to tie the two together.  If you're not going to cover it though maybe you should bust it up and pour all new so it doesn't look like a patch job.

2. 
   calvin | Jul 08, 2006 11:22pm | #2

   Clean, then apply concrete glue to the mating surface.  You could use a mortar slurry to help bond. It might stay together.

   A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   Quittin' Time

    

1. 
   harrisdog43 | Jul 09, 2006 01:52am | #3

   The garage is going to be painted with epoxy so the steps will be also. I wish it was going to be carpet, then I would just make the add on out of wood or blocks and then cover them...but it needs to be a better match so concrete it is.

   Thanks for the replies.

   john

1. 
   SamT | Jul 09, 2006 07:06am | #5

   Clean with stiff bristle brush, TSP, and LOTS of elbow grease.

   Set your hose nozzle to make a spray about 4" wide at the step. Rinse for 3 minutes.

   When touch dry, still looking damp, rinse with 10:1 Muriatic acid:water.

   Fumes are deadly and will corrode any steel they touch. Set the higher volume fan blowing in from far away. Set the other to blow across you and out the door.

   Let set 3 minutes.

   Rinse as above. Drill your holes, rinse the dust out of them. Make sure your setting goop is not effected by water and set your pins. Apply adhesive admix, set your forms and pour. Use some admix in your mud.

   Cure the entire steps for at least 1 week, the longer the better up to 28 days.

   Concrete takes 672 Curing Hours to reach Design Strength. A Curing Hour is one hour at the right temperature in the presence of sufficient water to enable the hydration process. The right temperature is short-sleeve weather. Keep it damp.

   Design Strength is, IIRC, 97% of Ultimate Strength.

   Some of the concrete used to build The Colliseum is still getting stronger. It's only up to 99.99999999999999999999999999999% U-S right now.

   Edited for emphasis.

   SamT

   Edited 7/9/2006 12:10 am by SamT

1. 
   harrisdog43 | Jul 09, 2006 06:42pm | #7

   Sam T:

   Thank you for the full refresher...I needed it. I will save your instructions into my "great tips file". As a handyman, I get asked to do just about everything. Sometimes it is years between doing something.

   john

3. 
   Danusan11 | Jul 09, 2006 02:50am | #4

   Did some exteriors last year, rodded and applied bonding agent. Used hilti expoy to set bar

   Capped with bluestone, no problems yet

4. 
   mclaren | Jul 09, 2006 07:35am | #6

   SamT has the correct procedure.

   Keep it moist and let it cure before epoxy.

   When ready to coat with epoxy, do stairs first.

   Thicken epoxy with silica flour to hide any imperfections

   from the widening of the steps, it will allow the material

   to go on stay in place and cover. ( use caution: silica)

   make sure to add texture to epoxy, sand or chips to promote skid

   resistance ( no skating across a wet floor on one foot!)

   Mclaren

1. 
   harrisdog43 | Jul 09, 2006 06:47pm | #8

   McLaren:

   I added your additional info to Sam T's and added both to my "great tips" file. Thank you.

   john