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In our neck of the woods, up here in Alberta, Canada our code requires 2×6 wall construction on all new residential construction. This requires us to use R-20 batt insulation in walls and gives us more room to build a more energy efficient header over windows and doors. I notice a lot of buiders slap two 2×10’s together leaving a 2 1/2″ space on the inside to be insulated or furred out later. While this process seems to be the fastest and easiest, what tends to happen is the sub-trades tend to neglect insulating that cavity and just vapor-barrier over it. Our method is simple and fast. By simply spreading the 2×10’s apart and nailing them to a 2×6 located on the underside, leaves enough space to tuck R-12 insulation between. Thus giving you an efficient result with solid wood on the inside, and a finished appearance. Good-Luck.
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Gerald
Check the specs for R2000. Here in eastern Ontario, I started insulating lintels (what you and the yanks call headers) and rim joists with XPS many years ago. .. it has been part of R2000 specs from the beginning (I think). The 2.5" space between lintels members can get you a real R12.5,(not a pretend R12 with jammed in f/g) although I tend to sandwich 1 pc 1.5" and 1 pc .75" =2.25" @R11.5, leaving a little room for differences in lumber thickness. . . either thin studs or fat lintel material can come back to haunt you causing a bulge that's hard to hide afterwards.
You should consult the archives here at Breaktime for discussions about the relative merits of 2x4 and 2x6 construction. .. also on value engineered framing, which leaves out many unnecessary framing members such as your "lintel spreader", and 3 stud corners, and structural lintels in non-loadbearing walls!!!
If you're really interested in energy efficient framing and building get ready to have sonme of your long held beliefs questioned rigourously. . . have an open mind, much of it is very logical!!
Are you sure you're really bound to build 2x6 and not just bound to achieve mimimum R values which can be also achieved with 2x4's and Rigid Foam Board Insulation???
-pm
*Patrick, have you always sounded like Gene? Or is it the other way around?Agree with Patrick on all points. The archives are rich with this stuff, pro and con. Don't forget to omit headers in nonbearing walls, and to size them accurately.
*AndrewSome of it I knew before coming here, some I had developed doubts about but needed to hear a i good rationalefor changing, and some I learned here.It's always hard to argue with the logic that Gene brings to a discussion.Gerald... read anything that Gene Leger has posted here... if nothing else it will get you thinking, and that in itself will make you a better builder!!-pm
*If you check around, you should be able to buy insulated headers for 2X6 walls. We currently use such headers in 2X4 walls, but never bought them in the 2X6 size. They look more or less like 2 I-joists sitting side by side, with insulation between the plywod webs. You can see a span chart and an outline of them at: http://www.swi-joist.com/p_04.htmlWe like them for a couple of reasons. Like I-joists, they're straight, and all the same depth. They cost more initially than 2-2X12s, but after considering labor and waste we figure they're about the same price as assembling conventional headers.
*Providing less insulation space but phenomenal strength, you can use LVL's (microlam or whatever). I'm considering doing this for a french door header that will bear a fair amount of weight. The LVL is pricey at about $5 a foot, but a 1 3/4" x 11 3/4" wear bear as much as a doubled 2x12 ... plus it's straight, weighs less, etc.If you fill the space(s) with PUR, you can also get the benefit of R7/inch and air sealing.Then there this timberstrand stuff, about which i know little but I've seen greater use of in the developments around here lately.
*I agree, LVL makes a nice header. Just thought I'd mention that I get any depth LVL less then 10' long for .50/ft at my local lumber yard. You might want to ask around.Jerry
*Hmm, check around i will. The LVL's i'm remembering were 16' and I recall them being about the same cost as a doubled 2x12.
*Jerry - Speaking as one who sells LVLs, I'm surprised that anyone would sell the stuff so cheap. We don't discount anything short like that. The only exception would be that once we get stuff that's only 4' long, we generally toss it.
*Ron:The insulated headers from SWS look *very* interesting. Spent some time on their web site but couldn't find any info about the R-value or type of insulation. Got any rough idea of cost per ft?Anyone know if they sell these or similar in the SE US?TIA
*Ron,I kinda thought I was getting a good deal. They say anything under 10' doesn't sell; who am I to argue?Jerry
*Are you SURE it's not just plywood? :)
*Matt -We sell the 3 1/2" X 11 1/4" insulated headers gor about $3.80 per foot. They are manufactured in 14' lengths only. (I think)We don't stock any of the other sizes, so I can't tell you the cost of them. I forgot to look up the R-value.
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In our neck of the woods, up here in Alberta, Canada our code requires 2x6 wall construction on all new residential construction. This requires us to use R-20 batt insulation in walls and gives us more room to build a more energy efficient header over windows and doors. I notice a lot of buiders slap two 2x10's together leaving a 2 1/2" space on the inside to be insulated or furred out later. While this process seems to be the fastest and easiest, what tends to happen is the sub-trades tend to neglect insulating that cavity and just vapor-barrier over it. Our method is simple and fast. By simply spreading the 2x10's apart and nailing them to a 2x6 located on the underside, leaves enough space to tuck R-12 insulation between. Thus giving you an efficient result with solid wood on the inside, and a finished appearance. Good-Luck.