Replies

1. 
   Steve_Merrette | Aug 11, 2001 06:21am | #1

   *
   Knowledge, due to surface tensions the water would actually hug the surface and could end up sitting in that little gap between the siding and the top of the window. by using flashing it will sit on metal and not your window top where it woulb be rotting out either the window or whatever it had "wicked" to while sitting there.

1. 
   knowledge | Aug 11, 2001 08:39am | #2

   *Thank you for your reply. the siding is unpainted cedar. the crown slopes away from the house. If the flashing doesn't form around the corner of the crown what is to prevent wicking from entering at the corners. the house is a reproduction with divided light windows with wood storms. In three years there has been some rot in the bottom rails of a few storms and two side casings of the windows, at the bottom, have suffered some rot. Do we need to put in flashing at top of windows? Is that the source of the damage. The windows are 5'9". The house is in the northeast with the usual snows and not particularly rainey summers.

1. 
   Mike_Smith | Aug 11, 2001 12:10pm | #3

   *you need the window cap flashing.. which you also form corners for so ti does indeed wrap the corners..the side casings are a seperate problem...usually wicking water up thru the end grain..end prime with paint before installing... avoid inferior woods for exterior trim... create a capillary break.

1. 
   Jeff_Clarke_ | Aug 11, 2001 02:19pm | #4

   *Yes - and glue those corners together w/Pro-Bond or Gorilla Glue. If you're going to the trouble of traditional crown (actually traditional is usually (wood) drip cap + crown) what's a little copper - cut to lenth + enough to bend ends down as noted.Jeff

1. 
   knowledge | Aug 11, 2001 07:13pm | #5

   *I signed "knowledge" but really it should be knowledge-less(really the idea is looking for knowledge). Now that I know the builder should have put window cap flashing on my 26 elaborate wooden drip caps does anyone have some helpful hints for doing this after the fact and doing the least damage to my cedar siding that was pout on in long runs and with great care. Thanks, "Breaktime" is terrific!

2. 
   Tommy_B. | Aug 12, 2001 05:28am | #6

   *Although I would use metal in this type of situation, I have worked on many, many houses where there was a wooden water table as you have described in lieu of metal flashing. Some of these houses were a century old or more. These types of wooden flashings can outlast the siding providing the installation method is correct ie. cappillary breaks, adequate slope and other factors.A couple of anonymous posts on this website does not necessarily give you evidence to conclude that your builder has done something wrong and that your builder needs to correct it at his expense. After all you are "knowledge-less". This maybe the proper or at least acceptable method in your area.Yes, Breaktime is terrific.Tom

3. 
   Jeff_Clarke_ | Aug 12, 2001 03:27pm | #7

   *knowledge - You can't really post-install correctly due to the need to get the vertical leg of the capping under the siding. Post-installing without a vertical leg is possible but not ideal - you would have to glue down the capping to avoid top fasteners. Removal of the caps might do some damage as you suggest. Good sealant, good paint and regular maintenance is probably the way to go.Tommy B. is correct, but some of those old drip caps were close-grained old-growth white pine - not the same stuff as today.Jeff

4. 
   Tommy_B. | Aug 13, 2001 03:53am | #8

   *I was going to mention that Jeff. You certainly can't do some things with lumber that were done in the past.Good point.Tom

2. 
   knowledge | Aug 13, 2001 03:53am | #9

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   if the exterior crown of a window is beveled to shed water is it necessary to use metal flasing at top of window? Is flasing at top of window a standard procedure?