Window replacement opinions wanted
| 22710.1 | |
| I’ve got a window replacement job coming up on my own house. I’m weighing the pros & cons of sash replacements, ie Marvin TiltPacs versus complete window replacements with Andersen TiltWash units. The details of the job are about 26 units involved, all standard sizes, most of which are in aluminum siding. The siding is getting replaced but that’s another project. The rest of the units are in brick. The originals are Morgan Red Seals which was basically a shop window from about 30 years ago. Their frames are in very good shape but installation wasn’t always square. Storm windows were added. Screens are long gone so I’ll need to measure & have a whole house worth made. At first glance, the TiltPacs are a much easier install. The work is done from the inside with minimal disruption. The sash can be ordered primed but not prefinished. The Andersens require outside work but include screens. The also have a white prefinish option, which I’d use. They have no brick mould, unlike the Morgans. The Andersen’s nailing flange would lie under where the brick mould on the old units was. The old siding is butted & caulked to the trim with no J-mould used. Outside trim is TBD. I can either add brick mould or temporary 5/4×2 until the new siding goes in. I’ll most likely go Hardi & then I might upgrade to 5/4×4. All jambs are standard so no extensions would be needed if I go full replacement. Thoughts & opinions please, gents. Al |
Replies
So the job is siding and windows with windows first. I think the brick section should control which windows you pick to use. With out seeing the job and from pass work most "new" build windows I ended up using came down to the "standard" sizes they were made. They all have their own idea of standard. Kolbe & Kolbe had just the right size for me on one brick house and andersen were the ones for another.
Thanks for the info. Any thoughts or experience about sash replacements in lieu of unit replacement?
Tks,
Al
Not tried them myself, but Have seen it done. worked ok if the windows were dead square. If the old windows are solid and no rot, and the price is right. I would want some guide lines on how to measure, maybe order 1 and see how it works out?
If I go this route instead of new units, I'll most likely do like you mentioned & test drive one unit first. I've not checked for square yet but I do know at least one window was not installed plumb. Unfortunately it's right over the kitchen sink. My wife has never noticed it but it's enough for me to see. Not bad enough to reset it though. Frames, sills, & even brick mould all appear to be in good shape. Screens are long gone, pitched out when el cheapo storm windows were added years ago. I've got a pretty good screen guy I work with who I'll hook up for those. I'm still wrapping up some details on the kitchen right now. As soon as they're taken care of I'll move on to the windows.
Tks,
Al
Any chance you plan on being in the house 20-25 years from now?
If so, forget thermopane or insulated glass of any kind except fused glass edges, otherwise they will need replacement. Just to start it off, I expect to hear some crap from somebody about how "good" insulated glass is now.
BS IMHO, IMNSHO in this case.
If I had to do differently 30 years ago, I'd have stayed with single pane and storm windows or paid the extra big bucks for a true hermetic seal.
PS- the only acknowledged true "hemetic" seal in the aerospace business is fused single material joints or furnace brazed high alumina ceramic to Kovar.
Thanks for the reply...have been on vacation & only now am getting caught up. Can't foresee more than about ten years in this house. What kind of problems did you have with past windows?
Tks,
Al