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Window Sill Issue

River19 | Posted in General Discussion on July 10, 2002 10:37am

I am in the process of installing new trim around all my windows as preparation for installing my new siding.  While removing the existing trim from one of my windows the visable portion of the sill split and broke off……..it needed to go anyways.

Of course the sill is nailed to the rough window framing.  Is there any way to deal with this other than ripping out the existing window, replacing the sill and re-installing the window?

The other issue is, my fiance dislikes window sills and would like a simple frame casing around all the windows….of course every window has the same sill structure.  Is there any safe (ie. water unfriendly) way to cut the sill flush with the sheathing and simply flash and case the window?

Thanks as usual.

SJ

Know a little about alot and alot about little.
Reply

Replies

  1. PostnBeam | Jul 10, 2002 11:09pm | #1

    Are you casing the exterior window with trim and pulled off part of the sill? Or am I reading this wrong? Also, inside, do you want to wrap with drywall and case the opening or ? If you are on the exterior, and can see the sill behind the window flange, (if there is one. Is it vinyl, wood clad, glazed in place?)can you see how the framing was done? ie sill into the trimmers or sill cut to the RO and has a crip on each end? Sorry, maybe I am not seeing the picture for your answer....

  2. jimblodgett | Jul 10, 2002 11:24pm | #2

    You say you are going to reside - are you stripping down to the sheathing?  If so, it shouldn't be too tough to cut that sill flush with a long sawzall blade laying flat against the sheathing to guide it.  Then plane the edge flat with a jack plane.  Might even be able to do a lot of the cutting with a skilsaw, then finish the ends with sawzall...but I'd try the sawzall first so as to save starting and stopping to switch tools.   I'm guessing you'll have some type scaffolding set up for siding anyway, but you could probably do all this by leaning out the window.

    I use that same detail your wife wants sometimes - clean, simple, functional, Shaker-like.  But I only use it on houses with generous overhangs that keep most of the rain off the windows. I taper the top of the bottom horizontal casing about 12, or 15 degrees and get a nice tight joint between that piece and the window jamb.  I use a real good caulk to seal that joint, too.

    1. River19 | Jul 11, 2002 12:07am | #3

      Thanks Jim & POST..

      I am residing my single floor (ie. ranch) home.  Simple straight forward until this issue popped up.  I was planning on doing exactly what you mentioned but I didn't know if it would really work well.  I'm going all the way down to the sheathing (the old tar paper is teh only thing on right now). 

      So basically I will try to get the joint between the existing cut sill and the new casing as tight as possible, then seal it with a good caulk.  I was planning on beveling the top edge of the bottom casement moulding anyway...so that should work.  The overhang on the house is about 14-18" (I didn't measure the soffit......I'm not touching that), combined with the single story only the hardest of driving rains will soak it and not on a regular basis.  Snow may sit a little but not for long. 

      I think I will handle the rest of the windows the same way....only this time a nice controled cut would be better than inadvertantly snapping the existing sill...... dumbass move on my part.

      Do you see any problem with doing it this way?

      Thanks

      SJ

      Know a little about alot and alot about little.

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