Replies

1. 
   Dam_inspector | Jul 18, 2009 04:34am | #1

   I would get some "universal retarder" from an auto paint store. Or thin the enamel some with mineral spirits or kerosene.

1. 
   DonCanDo | Jul 18, 2009 05:00am | #2

   What is "enamel"?  Does it refer to a specific solvent?

1. 
   popawheelie | Jul 18, 2009 05:09am | #3

   Wikipedia is your friend!

   http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Enamel_paint"There are three kinds of men: The one that learns by reading, the few who learn by observation and the rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves."Will Rogers

1. 
   DonCanDo | Jul 18, 2009 05:17am | #4

   Thanks, but that doesn't quite answer it for me.  I've purchased water-based paints that are labeled as enamels so I tend to think of "enamel" as a marketing term rather than a specific product.  My painting career is relatively recent so some terms may have historical or traditional meanings that I'm not familiar with.

   Here's a quote from Wikipedia that probably comes closest to answering my question:

   'Typically the term "enamel paint" is used to describe oil-based covering products, usually with a significant amount of gloss in them'

1. 
   popawheelie | Jul 18, 2009 05:35am | #7

   I don't paint with water based enamels. I never will.

   I like the looks of oil based and the way it goes on.

   People who haven't painted a lot with oil based enamel don't understand.

   It is very rewarding in ways it is hard to describe.

   It probably started for me 40 years ago building model airplanes and cars.

   Painting with a real small brush out of testors bottles. Glass bottles.

   I've learned over the years how to paint with oil based enamels and really don't want to or care to re-learn this.

   So your questions are kind of a mute point for me. Change isn't necessarily a good thing. "There are three kinds of men: The one that learns by reading, the few who learn by observation and the rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves."Will Rogers

2. 
   Dam_inspector | Jul 18, 2009 05:24am | #5

   The solvent for enamel is correctly called reducer. There are a multitude of reducers in the auto paint world. There are different reducers for oil, synthetic, acrylic enamel polyurethane catalyzed enamels and epoxy enamel. Wash reducer is used for cleaning equipment, but not for reducing the enamel. The reducers used in enamel are available in different speeds, very slow, slow, standard, fast, very fast. If very slow reducer is used and the enamel still is drying too fast, a universal retarder is added as well.If you are using a run of the mill enamel, like rustoleum, the can will recommend the reducer to use, probably mineral spirits. A little kerosene will really slow down the cure time. Linseed oil might work too, but is a little unpredictable.

3. 
   Dam_inspector | Jul 18, 2009 05:25am | #6

   I believe enamel is now just a term for a high gloss finish, but the enamel of old was varnish with pigment added.

2. 
   SteveSchoene | Jul 18, 2009 05:39pm | #8

   If you add the oil you do increase the open time, BUT you also significantly soften the resulting finish.  More than a tiny smidge, and you can even leave your self with a finish that would be almost gummy.  I wouldn't do it. 

   Better is to thin the enamel a small amount (perhaps 10% or less) so that it flows out well, leaving no brush strokes.  In this age of VOC regulations almost all oil-based enamels need some thinning to flow out well.  If it is setting up too rapidly use one of the slower evaporating thinners.  Pure Gum Turpentine would qualify--though it is smelly.  When brushing use a decent brush, apply thin coats, using the brush to spread the enamel, and then use an almost dry brush held roughly vertically and just lightly kissing the surface to "tip off" the surface to eliminate any remaining brush strokes, bubbles, or defects.