Replies

1. 
   rez | Apr 28, 2005 07:40pm | #1

   Greetings Clay,

   Welcome to Breaktime.

   This post, in response to your question, will bump the thread through the 'recent discussion' listing again.

   Perhaps it will catch someones attention that can help you with advice.

   Cheers

    

   sobriety is the root cause of dementia.

1. 
   WoodRipper531 | Apr 28, 2005 08:39pm | #2

   Hardibacker definitley!! Done a few bathroom remodels and the hardibacker is much easier to work with as far cutting and drilling, holds it self together (doesnt crumble like wonderboard). The thinner profile is more convienient in remodel siduations at the doorways. Try it you'll like it!!

1. 
   dustinf | Apr 28, 2005 08:51pm | #3

   I agree, Hardibacker is much easier to work with.  The best part is no little pieces of concrete dropping all over a brand new cast iron tub.  Much less scratch factor with hardibacker.

    

   Invest in a specialty blade for the circular saw.  They are available for about $20 at HD or Lowes.

2. 
   ClayBabcock | Apr 29, 2005 06:06pm | #5

   Thank you one and all for the input. Hardibacker it shall be.

2. 
   sully13 | Apr 28, 2005 09:20pm | #4

   I have used both of these products and the Hardibacker is superior in most cases.  If you plan on using the Hardibacker on the walls check the installation guidelines as I believe the stud spacing has to be closer than 16" oc.  The regional rep for Hardibacker told us that there have been some problems with adhesion of the thinset to the backerboard.   The recommended method for installation of tile now includes wiping down the Hardibacker with a cloth or sponge immediately prior to spreading thinset.  This apparently will increase the bond strength of the thinset to the board.  We had done a floor without performing this step and we were able to pop the tiles with very little effort.  Good luck! 

1. 
   ClayBabcock | Apr 29, 2005 06:26pm | #6

   Hmmm. Somehow the prospect of reframing my entire bathroom to space the studs tighter makes the hardibacker seem a much less attractive proposition. Their website makes no mention of tightening the stud spacing. Was your local rep talking about 1/2" hardibacker as well as the 1/4" product?

1. 
   CapnMac | Apr 29, 2005 10:25pm | #7

   prospect of reframing my entire bathroom to space the studs tighter

   Ah, well, you don't (absolutely) have to; you just apply 1x2 "strapping" to the wall, ceiling, etc. at the spacing required.  You may need to adjust things for the strapping, but that's simpler than all of the bathroom framing.

   Alternately, a 2x can go "on the flat" between bays to get the spacing needed, too.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)

3. 
   JTC1 | Apr 30, 2005 01:05am | #8

   CapnMac is on the track which I just used.  Except I ended up sistering the studs with furring strips set back from the stud edges, then installed 1/2" plywood in the stud bays.  Achieved 2 things 1) provided full support for cement board and 2) got to straighten the walls in the tile sorround area.  It ws a lot of work, but the results were good!  Screwed cement board 8" on center throughout. 

1. 
   ClayBabcock | Apr 30, 2005 04:18am | #9

   I just spent some time on the Hardibacker site in order to get their final word on a nailing scedule. Turns out that they are recommending 8" spacing on conventional 16" center stud bays. So I'm going to skip the addition of furring strips or sistering studs (yes I AM getting lazy). Thanks to all for the great insights and the pretty consistent bias for Hardibacker over Wonderboard.

1. 
   Notchman | Apr 30, 2005 05:06am | #10

   While it's a pain to work with, we use Durock exclusively in wet areas.

   Hardy is fine for countertops and non-bath floor areas,  but do the "throw it in a bucket of water test."

1. 
   dustinf | Apr 30, 2005 03:39pm | #12

   "but do the "throw it in a bucket of water test."

   ?

   An associate of mine has had a piece in a bucket of water for about 3 years, and it still the same as new.

4. 
   andybuildz | Apr 30, 2005 12:50pm | #11

   To me Hardie is just a lazy way cause its so easy.
   Hardie's cool on backsplashes, countertops and the like but on bath floor I don't like it.
   When the floor gets wet HArdie doesn't stand up even close to Wonderboard.
   YEh Wonderboard is a pain but it ain't a whole city youre covering.
   Thinset it down then thin set your tile over it and you have a great job....of course unless you reallyyyyyyy dont wanna be alazy and put down some wire mesh an do a mud job.
   Thats the "best" way to go....
   Be well
   a...

   The secret of Zen in two words is, "Not always so"!

   When we meet, we say, Namaste'..it means..

     I honor the place in you where the entire universe resides,

   I honor the place in you of love, of light, of truth, of peace.

   I honor the place within you where if you are in that place in you

   and I am in that place in me, there is only one of us.

    

    

   
    

    

5. 
   Kaylene1 | Oct 28, 2013 12:49pm | #13

   Stud distance

   Several years later, but if anyone finds this like I did, I wanted to clarify the 8" instruction.  The install directions call for the studs to be a maximum of 16" on center.  When they talk about the 8" on center, they are referring to the distance between screws on the studs.  Not the distance between studs.