Replies

1. 
   calvin_stewart | Sep 30, 1999 12:18am | #1

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   andrew. once had a job in a hotel bar w/3/4 strip oak that had buckled. plywood over slab. buckled like you said. sink leak let water between the slab and ply. vapor barrier of tar paper kept floor good except where it was torn or not lapped enough. ply sucked the water out of the slab and the dry oak readily drew out the moisture out of the ply. look for the problem under the floor. it should leave a trail of blame. oak floor manufacturers usually have specs which pretty much leave them not liable. good luck

2. 
   Guest_ | Sep 30, 1999 02:22am | #2

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   At the risk of sounding like a broken record, I bet the installers did not seal all 6 sides of each board first. Of course, no vapor barrier/insulation over or under a slab or excessive in-house humidity leading to condensation on the slab which rises up as evaporation to the floor when the humidity drops will definitely screw up a wood floor (and any other wood, for that matter).

   This stuff is so basic, how could your builder/installer miss it. Your floor is ruined now -- no recovery possible on the cupped and twisted boards. If you open it up, put a vapor barrier and foam board insulation under the floor next time AND seal all 6 sides of each board before installation.

1. 
   Guest_ | Sep 30, 1999 05:34am | #3

   *Andy,Recently looked a a similar problem here in Dallas. Turned out I found a leak in the 1/4" cold water line that feed the ice maker to the fridge. Hardwood on slab is a sin. It can just buckle on its own......are there yard sprinklers on the outside of the house?Concrete is nothing but water and portland with a little sand thrown in. It will leach moisture for years after it's poured........my opinion.Ed. Williams

1. 
   Guest_ | Sep 30, 1999 05:56am | #4

   *I have never heard of sealing oak strip flooring on all 6 sides, although it does make sense. It would seem that if it were the way to go the stuff would be sold that way?? I'd be interested in hearing other people's opinion.

3. 
   Andrew_Fethes | Oct 01, 1999 11:16pm | #5

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   Tedd,

   Unfortunately, my clients hired a "general contractor" to complete numerous repairs. When querried about cleaning paint off of the casement window cranks adjacent to the trim he had just painted, he replied that this was not in his bid and it would take so much time ... needless-to-say, he was fired from the project. I've been called in to help with the remedial work.

   Sealing all sides and edges of the flooring makes a great deal of sense. Naturally this extra step will cost a little, but it may provide the additional protection required for a damp slab condition. What would you recommend to seal the boards? The top finish will likely be a water based poly (such as a Varathane Diamond Finish).

   I am also considering 1x sleepers in lieu of the plywood to leave a small air gap between the floor and concrete. Any ideas for sound attenuation? I've never been keen on the hollow sound of a wood floor over sleepers. On past projects I've specified loose perlite or vermiculite to be place between the sleepers, with fairly good success, but I am concerned about moisture wicking up to the flooring in this case.

   Thanks for all your input.

1. 
   Andrew_Fethes | Oct 01, 1999 11:20pm | #6

   *Ed,Thanks for the suggestion. I haven't done a full survey of the exterior yet, but suspect problems with the pool nearby and general drainage around the house.Thanks again.

4. 
   Architect_Andrew_M._Fethes | Oct 02, 1999 05:56pm | #7

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   I am involved in a project where a recently installed strip oak floor has severely buckled and my clients are seeking help in determining the problem and a solution. To the best of my knowledge, the floor was installed over 3/4 inch plywood over an existing concrete slab. I suspect a vapor barrier was not used. The worst area of buckling appears adjacent top the exterior walls and measures 2 feet by 4 feet and has risen by about 2 inches. This floor was installed less than two months ago, and the climate (north east) has not changed dramatically. The house is slab-on-grade construction, and significant rains in the recent month (Hurricane Floyd) may be saturating the slab. Other tile and vinyl floors show no moisture related problems.

   Any thoughs out there? I've already consulted with NOFMA and am interested in any real-world experience with this problem.

   Thank you.

5. 
   Guest_ | Oct 02, 1999 05:56pm | #8

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   Andrew,

   Here is a link to a JLC article on strip wood flooring installation.

   While I don't neccessarily agree with all of the author's ideas, he does have some relevant info on wood moisture content and installing strip flooring over concrete slabs.

   Regards, Mongo