hey guys i am remodeling the bathroom and being a carpenter i want to use at least some wood in there….a buddy of mine had a hardwood floor in his bathroom and it help up pretty good…it was red oak….i am always worried about rot though…then i read about teak in fine woodworker one issue. Has anyone ever used teak on a floor and will it hold up in use as a bathroom? it is a small bathroom so cost would not be too bad an issue
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Teak is rot resistant.. however so is white oak and several other woods.. the problem is stain. if you are careful about spilt water and leaks you should be OK if you neglect it you will regret it..
I have brazilian cherry in my master bath and in a "public" half-bath on the first floor of the house. No problems.
I did a teak floor in a bath, it was teak and holly for a guy who fancied himself as a boater. It looked great for several years afterwards, but the homeowners divorced and sold the house.
thanks for all your replys......
so no one seems to have a problem then with a wood floor....just dont let water stand on it ..also what is the best finisht to put on it.??? i have seem marine grade poly? any thoughts
If I wanted to up the chances of making my wood floor bullet proof, with regard to water, I'd treat all my wood before it went down. I'd use an oil based clear coat, rather than a water based. The reason being, I would want major penetration of the product. Starting with the back of the wood (being aware that drips around to the front can leave a mess) I'd apply a thinned (say, 30%) product. When I got to the end and noticed the parts where I started had soaked in, I'd start again.You could also keep flipping boards, working both sides, but would need to turn the walking side up in the end (with a few nails lightly pounded in the back to hold them off other surfaces, for drying). Again, be aware of build up that could leave drips. If necessary, wipe it all down before installing drying nails.Thinned urethane or polyurethane may seem too thin, but it's soak in pretty well. I've had six inch thick pieces of wood saturate all they way through. Once the thinner evaporates off, you end up with a big piece of plastic wood, essentially. Then you put your final coat of unthinned product on after installed
thats prety much what i did with all the wood (pine) floors i just did... poly... minerial spirits... a little BLO.... a little stain.... and let it soak in.... next day came back with a 90/10 poly mineral spirits for a second coat.... and that looks good enough for just about anyone.... but I'll do a final buff & finish coat at the very end...to get a really deep look...
but the thinned poly really gets down in the wood...
p
I've been pushing these methods for over a decade now, but most people labor under the misconception that only manufacturers know how to use their products. The unfortunate truth is,they must cater to the quick fix want, or commercial need. Your pine, treated with a highly thinned product, can actually end up being harder than oak.That which I least want to do is oft that which I most should do. And I can't afford cheap.
White oak ... stain to look like the remaining red (try Minwax Ipswich Pine stain) and several coats of Waterlox.
Jeff
Antique (reclaimed) heart pine - with lots of rings per inch, like a century old or so. Get it from Mountain Lumber or one of the antique flooring places. Hard as iron; doesn't move around much.
Our old house still has it in one bathroom; DD flooded the room to ~2" deep leaving the faucets on when I briefly had the water off and she couldn't figure out why the water wouldn't come out . . .
Destroyed the ceiling below, but the floor never moved.
Forrest
heart pine - with lots of rings per inch, like a century old or so. Get it from Mountain Lumber or one of the antique flooring places. Hard as iron; doesn't move around much.
man i love that stuff... when i cut a board that came from a tree that was standing when Columbus got here... i just kinda rub my hands on it waiting for it to tell a story.... it is so dense so full of sap that it smells like it was growing yesterday when cut...
termites can't even eat it...
P
Where I'm sitting now, I used a piece of salvaged 2x6 ceiling joist (tung oil finished) from the house, to cap a half wall around this desk thingy. Sun hits the end; it still drips sap. 125 years after being cut. Some of the real heart-y stuff is damn near translucent!
Forrest
don't do it, wood in the bathroom is just plain dumb, see today's post about hardwood in the kitchen, search numerous other floor repair questions ..
Australian Yellow Knotty Pine in our master bath (and 90% of the house) for several years now.
Put ceramic tile in the teens bath....didn't want to have to deal with the slightest possibility that you are concerned with.
Now that we've had our bath floors this long, I really don't think it would have ever been an issue with the teen bath.
I used a petroleum out door weather sealer to prime the backside & ends of the wood flooring. Stuff is similar to the modern day roof sealer used on flat roofs. Once it was installed, I sanded and finished with Parks oil based poly.
It's never been a problem and would do it all over again.
Pedro the Mule - always start your finish at the far end of the room....that way you don't leave hoof marks in the finish!
If you're open to an alternative, Google "Konecto" flooring. It's a vinyl plank and while it would certainly not "pass" as wood, it is the closest I've seen and is perfect for your application. We've used it several times, including 2 baths and I'm a big fan...
PaulB
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