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Hello Gary:
You should talk with Gabe Martel about your flooring situation. He deals with cork flooring tiles with a great variety of designs, as in the vynal version, and have a urethane wear layer. Cushions you underfoot, insulates, and is waterproof. Not that expensive either. A worthy diy’r could handle the installation alone. As was mentioned, you may have a really good reason to install all that wood. Just thought that this may help. I don’t have Gabe’s email address, so if someone else doesn’t post it, email me and I will get you in touch with him. By the way, I am not on commission.
Geardog
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Hello Gary:
You should talk with Gabe Martel about your flooring situation. He deals with cork flooring tiles with a great variety of designs, as in the vynal version, and have a urethane wear layer. Cushions you underfoot, insulates, and is waterproof. Not that expensive either. A worthy diy'r could handle the installation alone. As was mentioned, you may have a really good reason to install all that wood. Just thought that this may help. I don't have Gabe's email address, so if someone else doesn't post it, email me and I will get you in touch with him. By the way, I am not on commission.
Geardog
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Gary, IF your slab is dry and level and even, Why can't you fix your flooring direct?
GLUE ? Bostix ultra set, Well worth checking out.
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I'm currently building a new home which will have a basement wood working shop 17' x 49'. I would like to have a wood floor in the shop and I'm looking for methods of installing a wood floor over the concrete slab. The slab has been poured and has a membrane under it. Its been suggested that 30 pound felt be placed on the concrete and then put T&G plywood down and then nail #2 Southern Yellow Pine flooring to the plywood. I would treat the floor by flooding it with linseed oil for a couple of days and then wipe the excess off. Does anyone have any comments on the procedure or alternatives for flooring material?
*gary, i will assume you have adequate headroom and door clearance. for a shop, i would consider double sheeting the floor with 3/4 plywood. either lay roofing felt down first or use pressure treated plywood, depending on your moisture concerns, as the first course. fit the sheets snug to each other but leave say 1/4" at the perimeter walls to avoid a potential for buckling. the next course i would use 3/4 sanded one side t&g plywood with all joints staggered. glue with a good construction adhesive and screw off the sheets together. a light screening and sealing with a good durable urethane and you would have a solid workable floor surface. some concerns i would check though. do you have water problems i.e seepage in your basement? is your basement slab level and flat or does it roll up and down? why do you want to use yellow pine for a shop floor? do you want to run wiring in the floor? the double sheet of plywood works great under alot of circumstances, even as subfloor nailing for a wood floor. but it is not for every situation. consider those questions and good luck walk good
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Thanks for the comments Billy but wood or cork floating floors are not waterproof.
Floating floors are simply panels that are glued to each other forming one sheet of flooring when completed.
You are correct that it doesn't require any buildup over the concrete as long as the concrete is dry. Cork is a wood product and is treated the same and finished the same as wood. The only advantages to cork is that it is softer to walk on, warmer to the touch and will outlast wood between refinishes.
BUT, do remember it is a wood product, which means that you cannot have water ponding on it or it will swell.
thanks again
Gabe